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The  Amateur's  Book  of 
PLANNING  YOUR  GARDEN 


The  Amateur's  Book  of  the  Garden  Series 


Under  the  General  Editorship  of 
LEONARD    BARRON 


The  Amateur's  Book  of 
The  Vegetable  Garden 
Planning  Your  Garden 
Lawn-Making 
House  Plants 
The  Flower  Garden 
The  Dahlla. 
Gardening  Lnder  Glass 


This  suggestion  for  a  small  garden,  looking  east, 
embodies  the  author's  ideas  of  having  several  points 
of  interest.  The  placing  of  the  walk  to  the  north  side 
and  its  change  of  direction  at  the  dial  takes  full 
advantage  of  the  conditions. 


The  Amateur's  Book  of  the  Garden  Series 

PLANNING   YOUR 

GARDEN 

W.^Sr  ROGERS 

£ 

ILLUSTRATED 

BY 

THE    AUTHOR 

GARDEN   CITY                                     NEW   YORK 

DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  COMPANY 

192  3 

COPYRIGHT,  1911,  1923,   BY 

DOUBLEDAY,   PAGE   &   COMPANY 

ALL    RIGHTS    RESERVED,    INCLUDING    THAT    OF    TRANSLATION 

INTO  FOREIGN   LANGUAGES,  INCLUDING  THE   SCANDINAVIAN 

PRINTED  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES 

AT 

THE  COUNTRY  LIFE  PRESS,  GARDEN  CITY,  N.  T 

First  Edition 


PUBLISHER'S  PREFACE 

There  are  several  justifications  for  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  book  on  Garden  Planning.  One 
is  the  meagre  treatment  the  subject  has  here- 
tofore received  as  compared  with  the  more 
mechanical  phases  of  garden  making — plant- 
ing, cultivating,  etc.  Another  is  the  vital, 
though  often  unappreciated,  importance  of  the 
subject,  especially  in  this  day  of  countryward, 
outdoorward  tendencies.  The  significance  of 
the  cash  valuation  of  the  work  of  the  land- 
scape architect  when  contrasted  with  that  of 
the  gardener  is  not  often  grasped. 

This  volume,  however,  is  designed  for  those 
who  are  not  inclined  to  make  use  of  the  servi- 
ces of  a  professional  garden  designer.  Either 
excessive  cost  or  intense  personal  interest  in 
the  development  of  the  home  grounds  may 
effect  this  result.  In  either  case  he  who  plans 
his  own  garden  will  do  well  to  familiarize  him- 
self with  the  principles,  methods,  and  probable 
results  as  set  forth  herein. 

V 


VI  PUBLISHER  S    PREFACE 

The  ultimate  ideas  of  art,  taste,  judgment,  and 
harmony  are  not  local  but  universal  and  this 
volume  carries  to  the  reader  both  the  author's 
originality  of  treatment  and  the  conventionality 
of  theories  well  founded  in  long  experience. 


CONTENTS 


I.    Introductory 3 

II.    The  Factors  in  Detail 9 

III.  The  Garden  Picture 28 

IV.  The  Rectilinear  Principle      ....  45 
V.  The  Elements  of  the  Garden  Plan      .  51 

VI.  Making  Beds  and  Borders     ....  70 

VII.  Construction  of  Walks  and  Drives    .  87 

VIII.     Grass  as  a  Foundation 108 

IX.     How  to  Plan  a  Garden 127 

X.     Sloping  Gardens 141 

XI.     The  Rock  Garden 152 

XII.    The  Rose  Garden 173 

XIII.  Water  in  the  Garden 183 

XIV.  The  Vegetable  Garden 197 

XV.    Glass 207 

XVI.     Fences  and  Hedges 212 

XVII.  Tile  and  Other  Artificial  Edgings      .  229 

XVIII.    Garden  Plans 236 

XIX.     Planting 263 

XX.  Further    Considerations    in    Garden 

Making 279 

XXI.  Evolution  of  an  Ideal  Lot    ....  291 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Perspective  View  of  Garden    ....     Frontispiece 

FIGURE  PAGE 

1.  Diagrams  Illustrating  Aspect 21 

2.  Houses  on  Plots  of  Irregular  Shape     .     .  25 

3.  Garden  Styles  Compared 48 

4.  Expansion  of  Path 54 

5.  Expansion  of  Path 59 

6.  Expansion  of  Path 60 

7.  Path  Junction       61 

8.  Curves  in  Paths 62 

9.  The  Grouping  of  Beds 65 

10.  Correct  Form  for  Group  of  Beds       ...  68 

11.  Trenching 73 

12.  Drainage  for  Beds  and  Borders    ....  76 

13.  Shapes  of  Beds 80 

14.  Shapes  of  Beds 81 

15.  Relation  Between  Beds  in  a  Group  ...  83 

16.  Entrance  to  Drive 89 

17.  The  Carriage-turn 90 

18.  Path  Foundation 95 

19.  Design  for  Brick  Path 98 

20.  Section  of  Brick  Path 100 

21.  Design  for  Composite  Path 102 

22.  Design  FOR  Stone  Path 106 

23.  Design  for  Stone  Path 106 

24.  Level  and  Straight-edge 116 

25.  Tennis  Court 117 

ix 


X  ILLUSTRATIONS 

PICnXX  PAGE 

26.  Croquet  Court 118 

27.  Acute  Angles  IN  Grass 121 

28.  Beds  in  Relation  to  Grass  Shapes     .     .     .  123 

29.  Typical  Garden  Plan 131 

30.  The  Method  OF  Off-sets 131 

31.  Arrangement  OF  Trees 136 

32.  Terracing — Sectional  View 142 

33.  Terracing — Sectional  View 142 

34.  Terracing — Sectional  View 143 

35.  Steps  in  Paths 144 

36.  Dealing  with  a  Transverse  Slope     .    .    .  145 

37.  Dealing  with  a  Transverse  Slope     .     .     .  146 

38.  Steps 149 

39.  Spreading  Steps 150 

40.  Earthwork  in  the  Rock  Garden    ....  160 

41.  RocKWORK  Section 161 

42.  Rocks  in  Relation  to  Soil 162 

43.  Arrangement  of  Rock  Masses      ....  163 

44.  Arrangements  of  Rock  Masses      ....  165 

45.  Arrangements  of  Peat  in  the  Rock  Garden  166 

46.  Rose  Beds  in  Grass 176 

47.  Rose  Beds  in  Gravel 176 

48.  A  Long  Rose  Garden 178 

49.  Planting  Roses 180 

50.  A  Water  Garden 185 

51.  A  Water  Garden 187 

52.  Soak-away  Drain 189 

53.  Ponds 190 

54.  Tub  for  Water  Plants 195 

55-  Borders  Through  the  Vegetable  Plot      .  198 

56.    Position  for  Vegetable  Plots 204 


ILLUSTRATIONS  XI 

riGimE  PAGE 

57.  Wooden  Fencing 214 

58.  Stretching  Wire  Fencing 217 

59.  Open  Wooden  Fencing 218 

60.  Larch  Fencing 220 

61.  Construction  OF  Trellis  Screen    ....  221 

62.  Sections  of  Hedge 225 

63.  Hedge  Tops 226 

64.  Planting  Box  Edging 227 

65.  Edging  Tile 230 

66.  Brick  Edgings 232 

d^.  The  Plinth  Brick  as  an  Edging      ....  233 

68.    Stone  Edgings — Sections 234 


.  Garden  Plans 239-262 


69 

lOI 

102.    Arrangement  of  Herbaceous  Border  .     .     270 

103.) 

104.  >•  Progressive  Plans  for  a  Typical  Lot  .  295-297 

105.  ) 


PLANNING  YOUR  GARDEN 


PLANNING  YOUR  GARDEN 
CHAPTER  I 

Introductory 

The  planning  of  a  garden  involves  attention 
to  many  considerations  connected  with  the 
character  and  position  of  the  site  and  its  sur- 
roundings, as  well  as  to  those  questions  in  which 
both  horticulture  and  good  taste  play  important 
parts. 

Each  particular  site  presents  a  problem  in 
itself,  and  the  art  of  the  garden  maker  must  be 
exercised  first  in  studying  the  factors,  and  then 
in  permitting  them  to  guide  him  to  a  good  re- 
sult. What  these  factors  are  will  appear 
when  I  come  to  details.  It  is  sufficient  at  the 
outset  to  state  that  they  include  such  inherent 
conditions  as  soil,  position,  aspect,  and  envi- 
ronment. 

Though  garden  making  in  a  large  measure 
3 


4  GARDEN     PLANNING 

is  controlled  by  principles  based  upon  art, 
purely  artistic  considerations  can  only  serve 
the  designer  when  they  are  subordinated  to 
the  practical  needs  of  horticulture. 

As  in  other  branches  of  applied  art  utility 
claims  first  consideration,  so  in  garden  making 
the  conditions  which  make  for  the  welfare  of 
the  flowers,  and  the  comfort  and  convenience 
of  those  who  use  the  garden,  must  always 
receive  attention. 

This  does  not  imply  that  successful  flower 
culture  is  the  be-all  and  end-all  of  gardening, 
for  that  would  be  to  ignore  the  beauty  of  the 
garden  picture.  It  is  possible,  as  I  shall  show, 
to  give  due  weight  to  the  picturesque,  without 
in  the  slightest  measure  discounting  the  value 
of  the  garden  from  a  horticultural  standpoint. 
On  the  other  hand,  only  too  frequently  the 
mistake  is  made  of  supposing  that  well-filled 
beds  and  borders,  abundant  blossom,  and  neatly 
kept  grass  and  walks  are  the  sole  desiderata 
of  gardening.  If  that  were  so,  it  were  better 
to  grow  one's  flowers  as  the  market  gardener 
grows  his  cabbages  —  in  rows.  Mere  profu- 
sion of  bloom  will  not  condone  any  ill-planned 
garden.     The  gardening  enthusiast  is  too  apt 


INTRODUCTORY  5 

to  permit  his  pride  in  the  flowers  to  blind  him 
to  the  value  of  a  garden  picture.  He  sees  the 
individual  but  not  the  crowd.  It  were  better 
he  should  adopt  the  standpoint  of  the  landscape 
gardener,  who  thinks  less  of  plants  as  plants 
than  as  elements  in  a  composition,  in  the  way 
of  a  painter  of  pictures. 

The  garden,  however  small,  is  amenable  to 
treatment  on  truly  artistic  principles,  and  the 
first  thing  to  recognize  is  that  it  must  be  homo- 
geneous. It  should  appeal  to  the  eye  as  a  whole 
before  it  claims  attention  in  detail.  Every- 
thing in  the  garden  must  be  interdependent, 
and  the  general  picture  must  be  distinguished 
by  balance,  unity  of  effect,  and  a  studied  har- 
mony of  line  and  mass. 

If  common-sense  principles,  based  upon  full 
knowledge  and  recognition  of  the  governing 
factors  of  the  problem,  be  allowed  to  control 
the  design,  the  result  will  not  only  make  for 
beauty,  but  gardening,  in  the  sense  of  success- 
ful flower  culture,  will  be  agreeable  and  plain 
sailing. 

There  must  be  no  exaggeration  of  special 
features,  no  discordant  note  to  worry  the  eye, 
no  forcing  of  effects.     The  size  of  the  garden 


6  GARDEN    PLANNING 

hardly  enters  into  the  question.  It  is  just  as 
easy,  and  just  as  difficult,  to  plan  a  large  garden 
as  a  small  one.  The  same  general  principles 
apply  in  both  cases.  It  is  largely  a  question 
of  scale. 

Gardens  which  are  made  haphazard  are 
rarely  successful,  yet  the  majority  of  small 
gardens  have  been  so  made.  The  inference  is 
obvious.  How  often  do  we  not  see,  from  the 
vantage  point  of  some  suburban  railroad  journey, 
garden  after  garden  in  monotonous  succession, 
all  planned  to  a  common  type.  Some  may  be 
neat  and  well  kept,  others  neglected,  but  the 
outlines  are  the  same  in  all,  probably  conceived 
and  made  by  the  speculative  builder's  fore- 
man, whose  knowledge  and  skill  can  hardly 
be  expected  to  rank  high  in  this  department 
of  his  work. 

When  the  gardener  himself  has  taken  the 
pains  to  model  his  garden  to  suit  his  own 
views  of  what  it  should  be,  the  result  is  more 
often  than  not  marred  by  mistakes  which  arise 
from  hastiness  and  an  inadequate  knowledge 
of,  or  attention  to,  essentials.  Possibly  the 
commonest  error  is  to  ignore  aspect,  planning 
for  symmetry,  which  is  hardly  ever  consistent 


INTRODUCTORY  7 

with  the  best  arrangement  for  flower  growing 
in  a  plot  of  limited  size.  Another  mistake 
is  to  over-elaborate,  thereby  destroying  sim- 
plicity and  breadth  of  effect. 

I  do  not  intend  to  enumerate  here  all  the 
shortcomings  of  the  modern  suburban  garden.  I 
hope  to  make  them  sufficiently  apparent  when 
I  enter  into  a  more  detailed  statement  of  the 
principles  which  I  believe  should  govern  the 
planning  of  such  gardens.  Skilful  planning, 
particularly  when  applied  to  gardens  of  limited 
size,  includes  economy  of  space,  or,  in  other 
words,  making  the  most  of  the  space  available. 
And  this  is  only  possible  by  giving  proper 
consideration  to  aspect. 

The  craze  for  symmetry  prevails  too  strongly 
in  modern  garden  planning.  Grass  and  gravel 
are  allowed  to  usurp  positions  best  adapted 
to  flower  culture,  whilst  long  stretches  of  bor- 
der in  perpetual  shade  hold  a  few  starved  plants, 
whose  sorry  condition  proclaims  the  futility 
of  expecting  nature  to  heed  our  notions  of 
equal-sidedness. 

Sunshine,  the  life  and  soul  of  the  vegetable 
kingdom,  and  the  very  first  necessity  for  the 
flower,  must  have  full  access  to  our  beds  and 


8  GARDEN    PLANNING 

borders,  and  this  is  only  to  be  contrived  by- 
placing  them  where  the  sunlight  can  reach 
them.  Therefore  it  is  a  necessary  preliminary 
to  the  planning  of  a  small  garden  to  observe 
which  parts  of  it  enjoy  full  sunshine  and  which 
parts  lurk  in  perpetual  shadow.  The  north 
side  of  the  house  or  of  a  garden  wall,  in  northern 
latitudes,  receives  no  sunlight,  and  permanent 
shadows  may  be  cast  by  trees  and  buildings 
on  neighbouring  premises.  These  shadows 
are  as  rocks  to  the  careful  navigator,  things 
to  be  given  a  wide  berth,  unless  circumstances 
(as  in  the  case  of  redundant  trees)  permit  of 
our  bodily  removing  their  cause. 


CHAPTER  II 

The  Factors  in  Detail 

The  question  of  site  is  a  highly  important 
one  from  the  gardener's  standpoint.  In  acquir- 
ing a  home  so  many  considerations  carry  weight 
with  the  purchaser  that  it  is  not  always  pos- 
sible for  him  to  be»  over-fastidious  about 
the  garden;  though,  if  he  have  the  choice  be- 
tween two  or  more  houses,  in  other  respects 
equally  desirable,  he  will  naturally  decide  upon 
that  one  which  has  the  best  garden  site.  If 
the  house  has  been  previously  occupied  he 
will  find  the  garden  already  made,  after  a 
fashion;  if  not,  the  same  may  hold  good.  On 
the  other  hand  he  may  find  a  stretch  of  virgin 
soil  awaiting  his  good  pleasure  to  give  it  shape. 
Whatever  may  have  been  done  before  he  takes 
possession  should  not  deter  him  from  starting 
de  novo.,  with  the  object  of  securing  the  best 
possible  arrangement  of  the  outlines  before  he 
commences  to  plant  it. 

9 


lO  GARDEN    PLANNING 

In  considering  the  desirability  of  a  garden 
site  under  these  circumstances  the  main  thing 
is  to  see  that  the  plot  receives  a  fair  measure 
of  sunshine.  With  a  house  facing  south,  it 
is  not  possible  to  avoid  a  considerable  shadow 
from  the  house  itself,  but  intelligent  planning 
will  meet  this  case.  A  garden  surrounded 
by  a  high  wall  also  will  have  the  disadvantage 
of  the  wall  shadows  on  the  southern  boundaries. 

Naturally  such  questions  arise  most  often 
in  connection  with  town  and  suburban  gardens 
where  houses  and  gardens  adjoin.  In  the 
open  country  different  considerations  may  pre- 
sent themselves.  Most  generally  the  country 
plot  has  no  lack  of  sunshine. 

But  other  disabilities  may  exist,  amongst 
which  the  absence  of  shelter  may  be  the  most 
important  one.  The  tenant,  therefore,  should 
see  how  the  site  lies,  both  in  relation  to  the 
prevailing  winds  and  to  the  cold  winds  of 
winter  and  spring. 

Gales  from  the  west  and  south-west  are  often 
very  destructive  to  trees  and  plants  by  rea- 
son of  their  force  alone.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  cold  winds  from  the  north,  north-east, 
and  east  do  damage  by  their  low  temperature 


THE    FACTORS    IN    DETAIL  II 

and  dryness,  ''cutting"  and  destroying  young 
growth,  and  retarding  the  progress  of  plant 
life  generally.  The  ideal  site  for  a  country 
plot,  therefore,  is  one  which  is  open  to 
the  south  and  preferably  sloping  slightly  in 
that  direction,  partly  sheltered  by  higher 
ground  or  trees  to  the  west  and  south-west, 
and  wholly  sheltered  to  the  north  and  north- 
east. Such  sites  are  not  easy  to  find,  and  in 
most  cases  the  tenant  has  to  be  content  with 
something  short  of  what  he  would  wish;  but,  as 
I  shall  show,  he  may  do  much  by  artificial  means 
to  make  good  the  shortcomings  of  the  site. 

Another  point  more  likely  to  crop  up  in 
the  country  is  the  question  of  the  dryness  of 
the  soil,  which  is  intimately  connected  with 
its  temperature,  and  thus  affects  the  welfare 
of  the  flowers.  The  warmth  of  a  site,  other 
things  being  equal,  is  influenced  by  the  nature 
of  the  soil. 

The  following  table,  compiled  by  Schiibler, 
shows  the  relative  heat-absorbing  capacities 
of  various  soils,  assuming  lOO  as  the  standard: 

Sand  with  some  lime      .      .      .      lOO 

Pure  sand 95-6 

Light  clay 76.9 


12  GARDEN    PLANNING 

Heavy  clay 71.1 

Brick-earth 68.4 

Chalk 61.8 

Humus 49-0 


The  coldness  of  a  damp  site  is  due  to  the 
absorption  of  heat  resulting  from  evaporation. 

When  the  prospective  garden  owner  is  able  to 
purchase  rather  than  merely  to  rent  the  prop- 
erty the  question  of  the  garden  site  may  well 
receive   more    earnest   consideration. 

Individual  tastes  differ  greatly  on  the  ques- 
tion of  what  is  or  is  not  a  valuable  site.  One 
person  may  desire  seclusion,  and  on  that 
account  may  prefer  his  small  domain  circum- 
scribed by  natural  limits  to  the  view; 
another  may  value  the  panoramic  prospect  to 
be  obtained  from  an  eminence,  finding  the 
pleasures  of  his  garden  enhanced  by  the  land- 
scape beyond. 

Other  considerations  may  have  weight,  but 
in  all  cases  the  proximity  of  an  eyesore  in  the 
immediate  surroundings  is  to  be  avoided. 
Ugly  buildings,  waste  land  scattered  with 
rubbish,  small  property  inhabited  by  unde- 
sirable people,  a  cemetery,  factory,  or  gas 
works  should  disqualify  an  otherwise  desirable 


THE    FACTORS    IN    DETAIL  1 3 

site,  unless  it  were  feasible  to  screen  those 
objects  by  artificial  means. 

Thus  far  I  have  dealt  with  questions  exter- 
nal to  the  site.  The  next  thing  is  to  examine 
the  land  with  a  view  to  discovering  its  intrin- 
sic fitness  for  its  purpose  as  a  garden. 

A  house  perched  upon  a  hilltop,  or  in  the 
centre  of  a  treeless  field,  has  a  bleak,  forbid- 
ding aspect,  which  it  may  take  many  years  to 
redeem.  It  is  therefore  a  great  gain  if  the 
plot  includes  some  well-grown  trees,  which 
may  be  utilized  for  shelter,  and  which  will 
at  once  confer  a  certain  distinction  on  the  site. 
The  presence  of  old  hedgerows  and  bushes 
should  also  be  welcomed,  as  it  is  often  possible 
to  utilize  them  in  the  garden  scheme. 

The  contour  of  the  ground  is  an  important 
point.  Sites,  particularly  if  of  limited  extent, 
which  embrace  considerable  slopes  are  dis- 
appointing, and  present  difficulties  to  the 
gardener  which  he  had  best  avoid.  On  the 
other  hand,  variety  of  contour  is  a  gain,  oflFer- 
ing  suggestions  for  picturesque  treatment  and 
giving  character  to  the  garden  picture.  A 
uniform  slope,  if  slight  and  in  a  southerly  direc- 
tion, is  preferable  to  a  dead  level,  as  it  ensures 


14  GARDEN    PLANNING 

natural  drainage;  but  when  a  tennis  lawn  is  a 
sine  qua  non  it  is  desirable  that  some  portion 
of  the  ground  should  be  level,  or  have  only 
a  moderate  slope;  otherwise  much  expense 
will  be  entailed  in  excavating  and  banking  up, 
and  the  artificial  contours  thus  created  will 
become  unduly  obtrusive.  Happy  the  gar- 
dener who  is  content  to  forego  this  feature, 
which  rarely  harmonizes  with  the  other  ele- 
ments of  the  garden  plan,  and  more  often  than 
not  usurps  space  that  otherwise  could  be 
utilized  with  advantage  to  the  garden  picture. 

In  further  considering  the  desirability  of  a 
given  site  it  is  well  to  try  to  fix  provisionally 
the  position  for  the  house,  which  in  most  cases 
will  be  suggested  by  the  lay  of  the  ground 
and  by  its  aspect;  and,  having  done  so,  to 
endeavour  to  form  a  mental  picture  of  the 
main  elements  of  the  garden,  giving  due  weight 
to  the  natural  features  of  the  ground  and  its 
surroundings  as  factors  in  the  arrangement. 
By  doing  so  it  is  possible  to  judge  just  how 
far  it  is  likely  to  meet  one's  ideal. 

In  a  comparatively  small  plot  the  process 
will  be  a  simple  one.  In  a  large  plot  the  matter 
may   involve   more    difficulty,    as    alternative 


THE    FACTORS    IN    DETAIL  1 5 

positions  for  the  house  will  suggest  themselves 
and  call  for  consideration.  No  decision  should 
be  made  until  the  possibilities  of  the  site 
have  been  thoroughly  tested  from  every  stand- 
point. 

The  question  of  the  house  site  is  so  closely 
linked  up  with  the  treatment  of  the  garden 
that  I  strongly  advise  this  preliminary  survey 
before  purchasing  the  plot. 

Soil  —  Reference  has  already  been  made 
to  the  relative  heat-absorbing  qualities  of 
various  soils.  In  forming  a  judgment  on  the 
suitability  of  a  particular  site  for  gardening 
purposes  it  is  essential  to  ascertain  the  nature, 
not  only  of  the  surface  or  top  soil,  but  of 
the  subsoil.  This  can  only  be  done  by  having 
a  trench  dug,  say,  at  least  four  feet  deep.  If 
the  plot  is  of  considerable  extent,  a  series  of 
trenches  should  be  opened  out  at  various 
points,  because  soils,  and  subsoils  particularly, 
may  vary  even  within  the  comparatively 
restricted  limits  of  a  garden  site. 

The  surface  soil  is  not  always  very  closely 
related  to  the  subsoil,  so  that  even  those  accus- 
tomed to  forming  a  judgment  on  the  subject 
may  be  misled  by  a  superficial  examination. 


l6  GARDEN    PLANNING 

A  good  criterion  of  the  relative  warmth  of 
soils  is  available  in  winter  when  snow  has 
fallen.  That  ground  from  which  the  snow 
soonest  disappears  is  obviously  the  warmest. 
Information  on  this  particular  point  generally 
may  be  obtained  from  local  people  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  site. 

A  stiff  clay  subsoil  is  to  be  avoided,  as  it  is 
not  amenable  to  effective  drainage.  Sand, 
gravel,  and  light  loams  are  preferable  to  clay 
soils,  but  where  clay  and  sand  are  found  in 
admixture,  as  in  some  of  the  clay  loam  types 
the  condition  would  not  preclude  good  garden- 
ing; indeed,  the  rose  grower  would  find  a  soil 
of  this  description  one  of  the  best  for  his 
particular  purpose. 

The  dryness  of  a  site  depends  mainly  upon 
the  facility  with  which  the  rain-water  can 
percolate  through  the  soil,  and  the  distance 
from  the  surface  of  the  subsoil  Water.  Clay 
is  relatively  impervious  to  water;  consequently, 
when  a  layer  of  this  material  is  found  near 
the  surface,  the  surface  soil  will  be  either 
water-logged  or  baked  to  dryness,  according 
to  weather  and  rainfall. 

A  gravelly  soil  of  considerable  depth  on  a 


THE    FACTORS    IN    DETAIL  1 7 

gentle  slope,  all  things  considered,  Is  the  best, 
as  such  a  soil  Is  drained  naturally.  If  topped 
with  good  loam,  with  not  too  liberal  an  ad- 
mixture of  stones,  it  is  an  ideal  one  for  the 
gardener. 

A  coarse  gravel  subsoil  is  not  objectionable, 
provided  the  surface  soil  has  sufficient  depth 
to  admit  of  proper  tillage.  It  Is  not  unusual, 
however,  to  find  gravel  overlaid  with  the 
merest  film  of  loam,  in  which  case  the  land 
would  be  unsuitable  for  general  gardening 
purposes,  unless  the  purchaser  were  prepared 
to  spend  money  in  importing  material  for  his 
flower  beds  and  borders. 

Soils  overlying  rocky  formations  must  be 
judged  by  their  quality  and  depth.  When 
the  surface  soil  Is  shallow,  and  the  rock  imper- 
vious to  water,  they  suffer  from  the  same  dis- 
abilities as  stiff  clay  land. 

The  presence  of  stones  in  the  surface  soil, 
generally  associated  with  a  gravelly  subsoil, 
but  not  uncommonly  with  stony  clays,  is  no 
great  detriment;  but  if  they  are  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  hamper  the  gardener  he  would 
have  to  resort  to  picking  or  screening  to  reduce 
their  number.     On  sloping  ground  the  stones 


iS  GARDEN    PLANNING 

will  be  found  In  greater  quantity  at  the  lower 
levels,  particularly"  if  the  land  has  been  in 
cultivation. 

Light,  sandy  soils  suffer  from  drought,  and 
involve  labour  and  expense  in  heavy  manuring. 
Much  may  be  done  by  the  gardener  to  improve 
a  naturally  undesirable  soil.  Light  soils  may 
be  treated  with  clay  or  muck,  and  clay 
soils  with  sand,  ashes,  and  other  light,  porous 
materials.  By  these  additions  the  nature 
of  the  surface  layer  may  be  modified  and 
rendered  more  amenable  to  tillage;  but  no 
treatment  of  the  surface  will  meet  the  case  if 
the  subsoil  is  unsuitable.  These  operations 
necessarily  imply  outlay,  which  in  a  large 
garden  may  be  a  heavy  one.  It  is  therefore 
advisable,  when  the  purchaser  has  a  choice 
of  sites,  to  select  one  on  which  the  soil  is  neither 
too  heavy  nor  too  light. 

Another  point  in  the  selection  of  a  site  is  to 
avoid  made  ground  the  composition  of  which 
may  be  anything  from  gas  lime  to  meat  tins. 
A  site  of  this  kind  would  afford  many  un- 
pleasant surprises  to  the  gardener,  and  might 
be  perfectly  hopeless  for  horticulture.  Made 
ground  which  has  long  remained  undisturbed  — 


THE    FACTORS    IN    DETAIL  IQ 

and  it  is  not  often  offered  for  sale  when  newly 
made  —  is  generally  so  thickly  covered  with 
surface  growth  that  its  character  is  not  super- 
ficially apparent.  Here  again  the  trial  trench 
suggests  itself  as  a  wise  precaution. 

Peat  land  does  not  constitute  a  good  site, 
because  the  existence  of  peat  implies  water- 
logging. Drainage,  however,  may  be  effectual 
in  converting  it  into  a  good  garden,  always  pro- 
vided that  the  nature  of  the  subsoil  permits 
of  draining  it  thoroughly. 

Land  which  has  recently  been  in  cultivation, 
either  as  arable  or  garden  ground,  is  in  most 
cases  preferable  to  pasture;  because  it  has  a 
greater  depth  of  surface  soil,  and  constant 
working  and  manuring  have  brought  it  to  the 
best  consistency  for  the  gardener's  purpose. 

On  the  other  hand,  pasture  has  certain  ad- 
vantages. There  may  be  some  additional 
labour  needed  to  bring  the  soil  into  working 
condition,  but  against  that  it  may  be  possible 
to  preserve  part  of  the  pasture  as  grass,  and 
thus  avoid  the  necessity  for  turfing  or  sowing. 

Aspect  —  In  gardens  of  small  size  the  ques- 
tion of  aspect  is  perhaps  the  most  important 
factor  for  the  gardener  to  consider,   because 


20  GARDEN    PLANNING 

the  size  of  his  garden  will  be  measured,  not  so 
much  by  length  and  breadth  as  by  the  amount 
of  space  which  receives  full  sunlight.  Aspect 
also  is  the  key  to  the  successful  planning  of 
the  small  garden,  as  I  shall  show  when  I  come 
to  treat  the  garden  design  in  detail. 

/  shall  have  to  refer  repeatedly  to  the  aspect 
of  a  site  by  the  points  of  the  compass^  and  to 
prevent  possible  confusion  I  had  better  here  state 
that  I  shall  J  in  every  case,  employ  the  term  to 
express  that  point  to  zvhich  the  ^^  house  fronf^  is 
directed. 

The  sun  in  our  latitude  passes  from  east 
to  west  by  a  sweep  to  the  south.  Thus  the 
north  side  of  houses,  trees,  and  other  fixed 
objects  receive  absolutely  no  sunshine,  whilst 
the  east  and  west  sides  receive  sun  only  in 
the  morning  and  evening  respectively. 

These  are  cardinal  facts  to  be  borne  in  mind 
by  all  who  undertake  to  plan  a  garden  of  re- 
stricted size. 

I  can  best  illustrate  the  relative  values  of 
aspect  by  a  series  of  diagrams,  the  study  of 
which  should  serve  to  make  the  matter  clear. 

In  these  three  figures  I  have  shown  the 
shadow  traces  of  the  house  and  garden  walls, 


THE    FACTORS    IN    DETAIL 


21 


distinguishing  full  shadow  from  partial  shadow 
by  the  depth  of  shading. 

A  southern  aspect  implies  that  flower  culture 


Fig.  I. —  Diagrams  illustrating  aspect 

will  be  discounted  in  the  space  immediately 
to  the  rear  of  the  house.  But  if  the  gardener 
has  a  fancy  for  good  flower  effects  in  the 
fore-court,  or  front  lawn,  he  should  select  a 
southern  aspect.     An  eastern  or  western  aspect 


22  GARDEN    PLANNING 

will  give  a  shady  strip  on  the  north  side  of  the 
house,  which  may  be  good  or  bad  according  to 
circumstances.  It  is  best  that  the  shady 
side  should  be  that  on  which  the  kitchen 
and  its  offices  are  situated,  thus  admitting  of 
flower  growing  at  the  side  of  the  house  upon 
which  the  living  rooms  look  out. 

These  shadow  diagrams  represent  a  mean  of 
what  would  actually  be  found.  The  altitude 
of  the  sun  varies  according  to  season,  as  well 
as  time  of  day,  and  thus  the  shadow  of  a  wall 
running  east  and  west  will  be  narrowest  at 
noon  in  midsummer  and  widest  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon  in  midwinter.  The  shadow  of 
the  house  will  vary  in  like  manner  for  the 
same  reason. 

In  open  country  sites,  where  considerations 
of  privacy  do  not  carry  so  much  weight,  walls 
and  fences  need  not  be  so  high,  and  their 
shadows,  therefore,  would  be  practically  negli- 
gible. At  the  same  time,  the  shadow  question 
must  not  be  overlooked,  as  trees  and  other 
fixed  objects  may  exist  on  the  site  or  in  its 
immediate  vicinity. 

The  House  in  Relation  to  the  Site  —  When 
the  purchaser  of  a  building  plot  decides  upon 


THE    FACTORS    IN    DETAIL  23 

the  position  for  his  house,  he  rarely  gives 
thought  to  the  question  of  how  the  garden  will 
be  affected.  He  assumes  that  it  may  be  mod- 
elled to  fit  in  with  the  house.  It  is  better  to 
take  both  factors  into  consideration  when 
placing  the  house  upon  its  site,  because  they  are 
closely  correlated.  In  these  days  of  narrow 
frontages  there  is  little  latitude  in  a  direction 
transverse  to  the  length  of  the  plot,  and,  if 
economy  of  garden  space  is  to  be  considered, 
the  purchaser  must  give  careful  thought  to 
the  placing  of  his  house,  so  that  he  may  not 
be  hampered  when  he  comes  to  make  his 
garden.  This  question  will  be  governed  largely 
by  aspect,  but  to  some  extent  by  the  tastes  of 
the  gardener. 

A  fore-court  is  always  desirable,  if  only  to 
ensure  that  the  road  dust  does  not  find  access 
to  the  house.  In  a  thoroughfare  used  by  auto- 
mobiles it  is  a  necessity.  It  is  also  useful  for 
securing  a  measure  of  privacy.  With  a  north- 
ern aspect  the  house  shadow  will  preclude 
any  ambitious  gardening  display  in  the  fore- 
court, and  there  is  no  need  to  allot  more  space 
to  it  than  may  be  required  to  secure  the  two 
objects  just  mentioned. 


24  GARDEN    PLANNING 

On  the  other  hand,  with  a  southern  aspect 
the  fore-court  should  not  be  stinted  in  space, 
for  it  cannot  be  questioned  that  flowers  about 
the  house  front  not  only  enhance  the  good 
appearance  of  the  house,  but  constitute  a  valu- 
able charm  in  the  outlook  from  the  front 
porch  and  windows, 

A  detached  house  should  not  be  set  centrally 
in  the  width  of  the  plot,  because  that  would 
divide  the  garden  space  on  either  side  into  two 
equal  portions  not  equally  well  conditioned 
for  flower  culture.  It  is  better  to  place  it  so 
that  the  widest  space  is  on  the  sunny  side. 

When  the  ground  falls  toward  the  road- 
way it  may  be  desirable  to  place  the  house 
on  the  higher  ground  at  the  back  of  the  plot, 
thus  bringing  the  principal  garden  space  to 
the  front. 

All  these  points  call  for  careful  consideration 
before  a  decision  is  made,  as  upon  that  deci- 
sion will  depend  the  subsequent  success  or 
non-success  of  the  garden. 

Houses  set  askew  —  i.  e.,  obliquely  to  the 
garden  boundaries  —  on  small  plots  rarely 
look  well,  and  the  arrangement  creates  no  little 
difficulty  when  the  task  of  designing  the  garden 


ERTY  USURY 
C.  StaU  ColUnt 


THE    FACTORS    IN    DETAIL 


25 


has  to  be  undertaken.  I  am  strongly  opposed 
to  any  conditions  which  necessitate  the  use 
of  triangular  areas  as  elements  in  the  garden 


Fig.  2. —  Houses  on  plots  of  irregular  shape 

design,  because  such  shapes  invariably  suggest 
formality,  and  have  other  disadvantages. 

When  the  plot  is  bounded  by  converging 
lines  it  is  usually  best  to  set  the  house  with 
its  sides  parallel  with  that  boundary  which 
most  nearly  makes  a  right  angle  with  the  road 
line;  but  in  some  cases  it  may  be  best  to  set 
the  house  front  parallel  with  the  roadway, 
ignoring  the  side  boundaries. 


26  GARDEN    PLANNING 

In  plots  of  more  Irregular  shape  the  question 
must  be  settled  according  to  circumstances. 

From  the  foregoing  It  will  be  seen  how  inti- 
mately the  position  of  the  house  in  relation 
to  the  shape  and  size  of  the  plot  is  bound  up 
with  the  garden  plan. 

It  is  not  unusual  for  house  builders  to  defer 
consideration  of  the  garden  until  the  architect 
and  builder  have  completed  their  work.  The 
garden  designer  is  then  called  In,  and  has  to 
make  the  best  of  those  spaces  which  are  left 
to  him.  A  wiser  course  is  to  bring  architect 
and  garden  designer  together  in  the  first  In- 
stance, so  that  they  may  exchange  notes,  and 
each  work  out  his  plan  in  accordance  with 
such  decisions  as  they  may  mutually  agree 
upon.  Such  a  course  Is  eminently  to  the  advan- 
tage of  the  owner  of  the  site,  who  thereby 
secures  a  consistent  design  for  house  and 
garden.  A  thorough  understanding  between 
the  two  craftsmen  lightens  the  task  of  both, 
and  precludes  an  Incongruous  result. 

A  further  point  Is  the  question  of  outlay  to 
be  made  on  the  garden.  This  is  usually  as- 
sumed to  be  so  small  an  item  in  the  total 
outlay    that    it   is    left   out  of  consideration 


THE    FACTORS    IN    DETAIL  27 

altogether.  The  result  is  that  the  house 
builder  discovers  that  the  expense  of  building, 
with  the  inevitable  "extras,"  has  mounted  up 
to  such  a  sum  that  he  must  perforce  economize 
on  the  garden.  Then  It  Is  that,  with  mistaken 
views  as  to  the  economy  of  the  transaction, 
he  calls  In  the  help  of  a  local  nurseryman 
to  "lay  out"  his  garden,  and  in  the  long 
run  pays  a  larger  bill  than  he  would  have 
incurred  had  he  secured  the  services  of  a 
competent  designer,  at  the  same  time  securing 
an  indifferent  result.  The  nurseryman  who 
works  out  his  own  plan,  charges  what  he 
likes,  whereas.  If  a  properly  prepared  plan  Is 
available,  the  house  owner  may  obtain  competi- 
tive prices  from  two  or  more  nurserymen,  and 
make  a  contract  for  the  work  on  the  best 
terms. 

The  cost  of  a  good  design  Is  a  trifling 
sum  on  the  total  outlay,  and  it  invariably 
justifies  itself.  A  fair  allotment  of  money  to 
the  garden  at  the  beginning  is  ten  per  cent  of 
the  total. 


CHAPTER  III 

The  Garden  Picture 

The  design  of  a  garden  should  take  its 
general  character  from  the  local  conditions  and 
environment.  In  the  first  instance,  it  must  be 
adapted  to  the  special  requirements  of  the 
gardener.  If  he  is  his  own  designer,  he  will, 
of  course,  always  have  these  requirements 
in  mind;  if  another  makes  the  design,  the 
gardener  cannot  be  too  clear  in  specifying  his 
exact  requirements. 

The  natural  conditions  of  the  ground  must 
be  well  studied.  The  contours,  slope,  and 
aspect  of  the  plot  are  the  first  factors  to  be 
considered,  and  these  will  offer  the  first  sug- 
gestions for  its  treatment.  The  shape  of  its 
boundaries  will  be  important,  and  equally 
so  the  position  and  shape  of  the  house. 

The  aim  of  the  designer  should  be  to  bring 
all  these  factors  into  a  consistent  and  pleasing 
combination,  in  which  the  garden  and  house 

28 


THE    GARDEN    PICTURE  29 

are  in  entire  harmony  with  each  other.  Here 
it  will  be  well  to  warn  the  designer  new  to 
the  work  against  planning  for  mere  effect  on 
paper.  The  lines  of  the  plan,  representing  as 
they  do  the  projection  of  the  design  on  the 
horizontal  plane  only,  have  little  meaning  if 
they  are  not  intimately  correlated  with  some 
effect  in  the  third  dimension.  A  garden  at 
all  stages  of  its  development  should  be  a 
thing  of  height  as  well  as  of  length  and 
breadth.  It  is  only  by  studying  the  effect 
in  the  vertical  plane  that  a  successful  and 
artistic  result  is  realizable.  The  plan  is  a 
skeleton  affair,  merely  defining  the  spaces 
to  be  devoted  to  borders,  beds,  grass,  and 
gravel. 

The  designing  of  a  garden  is  a  process  akin 
to  the  artist's  conception  and  execution  of  a 
picture.  It  is  governed  by  principles  identical 
with  those  understood  by  the  painter  as  "com- 
position," which  may  be  defined  as  a  general 
balance  of  effect  obtained  without  the  use  of 
a  too  marked  symmetry  in  the  principal 
features  of  the  design. 

To  ensure  practical  realization  of  this  effect, 
therefore,  the  designer  must  ever  bear  in  mind 


30  GARDEN    PLANNING 

the  plants  —  flowers,  trees,  and  shrubs  — 
with  which  his  outlines  will  be  filled  in. 

It  may  be  noted  also  that  he  has  it  within 
his  option  to  supplement  these  natural  factors 
by  others  of  an  artificial  kind,  such  as  summer 
houses,  arches,  pergolas,  and  other  minor 
structures  which  have  a  well-recognized  place 
in  the  garden. 

I  cannot  too  strongly  urge  the  importance 
of  eliminating  symmetry  from  the  general 
garden  picture;  not  only  because  it  precludes 
a  picturesque  efi"ect,  but  for  the  practical 
reason  that  it  is  rarely  consistent  with  a  design 
which  gives  due  weight  to  the  all-important 
factor,  aspect. 

Many  complaints  of  undue  formality  have 
their  basis  in  the  existence  of  a  meaningless 
symmetry.  In  observing  these  injunctions 
against  symmetry  it  must  not  be  understood 
that  they  apply  with  the  same  force  to  details. 
On  the  contrary,  the  treatment  of  certain 
parts  of  the  garden  may  be  governed  with 
advantage  by  considerations  of  symmetry. 
For  instance,  in  introducing  a  group  of  beds 
for  effect  on  the  lawn,  a  one-sided  arrange- 
ment   would    be    opposed    to    good    practice, 


THE    GARDEN    PICTURE  3 1 

particularly  if  associated  with  a  grass  plot  of 
regular  shape. 

Just  what  constitutes  formality,  as  usually 
understood,  it  may  be  well  here  to  discuss.  It 
may  arise  from  several  causes.  Unquestion- 
ably the  most  common  one  is  symmetry 
in  the  general  lines  of  the  design.  Another 
cause  may  be  injudicious  planting,  particularly 
when  the  gardener  has  not  adopted  means  of 
building  up  a  well-considered  picture  in  the 
vertical  plane.  Such  mistakes  only  need  to 
be  recognized  to  be  corrected.  Trees  planted 
sentinel-wise,  at  equal  distances  from  a  central 
feature,  will  produce  a  formal  effect.  They 
would  be  better  arranged  so  that  no  two  sub- 
tend the  same  angle  in  the  line  of  sight  (see 
Fig.  31).  The  repetition  of  some  conspicuous 
feature  at  regular  intervals  also  makes  for 
formality,  an  error  not  infrequently  made  in 
planting  with  conifers  and  other  evergreens. 

Complexity  in  detail  may  suggest  formality, 
by  proclaiming  too  insistently  the  artificial 
character  of  the  garden.  Still  another  cause 
is  neglect  to  preserve  a  proper  scale  in  the 
various  details.  It  might  be  concluded  that 
the  use  of  straight  lines  and  right  angles  would 


32  GARDEN    PLANNING 

lead  inevitably  to  a  formal  result.  Such  is 
not  the  case.  On  the  contrary,  in  small  gar- 
dens the  use  of  straight  lines,  in  combination 
with  a  studied  simplicity  of  treatment,  is  the 
most  efficient  means  of  securing  an  informal 
result,  because  it  enables  the  designer  to  har- 
monize his  plan  with  the  shape  of  the  garden 
boundaries. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  use  of  curved  lines 
may  only  serve  to  render  too  conspicuous 
the  rigid  outlines  of  these  boundaries.  I  shall 
deal  with  this  part  of  the  subject  in  more  detail 
in  the  next  chapter. 

I  must  here  emphasize  the  value  of  variety 
—  variety  in  outline  and  variety  in  shape  —  as 
opposed  to  too  frequent  repetition  of  similar 
shapes,  and  variety  in  planting  so  as  to  secure 
a  good  effect  in  the  vertical  plane. 

Such  variety  must  be  carefully  thought  out, 
and  made  to  give  character  to  the  garden  as 
a  whole.  This  does  not  imply  over-elaboration, 
about  which  I  have  already  warned  the  reader, 
nor  is  it  opposed  to  simplicity  of  treatment. 
It  is  just  the  avoidance  of  undue  repetition 
of  lines  and  shapes. 

Another    factor  in    the   attainment    of    the 


THE    GARDEN    PICTURE  33 

picturesque  is  what  I  may  term  "reticence." 
It  is  not  well  to  aim  at  giving  too  comprehen- 
sive a  view  of  the  garden  from  any  one  point. 
The  planning  should  be  so  contrived  that  the 
various  garden  features  are  seen  one  at  a  time 
as  it  is  traversed  from  end  to  end.  This  may 
be  arranged  by  judicious  screening,  for  which 
trees,  shrubs,  arches,  trellises,  and  other  objects 
may  be  employed.  Much  may  be  done  in  the 
planting  to  attain  this  very  desirable  quality. 
A  long  herbaceous  border,  filled  with  flowers 
carefully  graded  in  height,  the  tall  ones  all 
standing  at  the  back  and  the  short  ones  in 
front,  presents  a  rather  monotonous  vista. 
Its  charm  is  greatly  enhanced  if  the  process 
is  partly  reversed,  so  that  here  and  there  a 
bold  clump  of  flower  or  foliage  is  allowed  to 
push  forward,  thereby  screening  what  lies 
beyond;  and  incidentally  this  arrangement 
has  value  in  affording  shelter  to  the  smaller 
and  more  tender  plants  lying  between  their 
robuster  companions. 

Nothing  is  more  delightful  than  to  pass 
along  such  a  border,  finding  something  new  and 
unexpected  every  few  yards. 

Again,  the  garden  may  be  divided  up  into 


34  GARDEN    PLANNING 

separate  compartments,  each  to  come  into  full 
view  only  when  It  is  entered.  Passing  down 
between  well-filled  borders,  we  may  thread  a 
pergola  clustered  with  flowering  climbers,  to 
reach  an  old-fashioned  garden  which,  in  turn, 
leads  to  a  shady  grass  plot,  or,  by  another 
flower-flanked  path,  to  the  vegetable  garden. 
Each  section  of  the  garden  is  complete  in 
itself  yet  wedded  to  its  neighbour,  each  a 
separate  factor  in  the  complete  picture,  and 
all  united  in  a  consistent  and  harmonious 
whole. 

The  task  of  the  designer  does  not  stop  at 
this  point.  He  has  other  factors  to  consider. 
It  is  essential  that  the  picture  should  not  be 
merely  a  group  of  closed-in  compartments. 
He  must  contrive  a  series  of  vistas,  which, 
whilst  giving  pleasant  peeps  from  certain 
points,  convey  a  sense  of  space.  In  other 
words,  the  treatment  must  include  that  artistic 
quality  known  as  "breadth."  This  is  to  be 
attained  in  part  by  the  opening  up  of  vistas, 
and  in  part  by  simplicity  of  character  in  the 
principal  details  of  the  design.         / 

One  frequently  hears  the  term  "a  natural 
garden."     I  may    here    state    that    a  natural 


THE    GARDEN    PICTURE  35 

garden  within  the  limits  of  four  square  boundary- 
walls,  in  the  sense  of  a  garden  which  shall 
deceive  the  spectator  into  believing  that  he 
is  looking  at  a  piece  of  pure  nature,  is  unattain- 
able. Nor  is  it  desirable  that  we  should 
strive  to  make  such  a  garden.  Yet  Nature 
cannot  be  left  out  of  the  question.  The 
gardener  provides  the  home  and  the  occupant 
and  there  his  work  ends.  He  must  rely  upon 
the  hand  of  Nature  to  fill  in  the  outlines,  which 
she  can  do  far  better  than  he  can  tell  her. 

It  should  ever  be  remembered  that  the 
highest  art  is  that  which  conceals  art.  The 
effects  which  we  create  in  our  gardens,  there- 
fore, must  be  so  contrived  as  not  to  reveal 
too  patently  the  means  by  which  they  are 
produced.  By  the  observance  of  this  principle 
we  get  the  nearest  approach  to  a  natural  garden, 
inasmuch  as  the  examples  of  nature's  work 
then  impress  us  more  strikingly  than  the  work 
of  the  garden  designer  —  and  this  is  as  it 
should  be. 

I  must  now  refer  to  a  further  quality  which 
it  is  important  to  introduce  into  the  garden, 
viz.,  repose.  Repose  is  closely  correlated  with 
breadth  of  treatment,  but  it  also   involves   a 


36  GARDEN    PLANNING 

proper  proportioning  of  the  main  elements  of 
the  design,  the  borders,  grass,  and  walks. 

As  regards  the  walks,  it  is  only  necessary 
to  see  that  they  exist  for  a  definite  purpose 
(not  merely  because  the  designer  thinks  they 
help  the  outlines  on  his  paper  plan)  and  that 
they  do  not  sprawl  aimlessly  about  the  plot, 
cutting  it  up  into  awkward  shapes. 

Grass,  more  than  any  other  feature,  helps 
to  secure  a  feeling  of  repose.  As  far  as  possible 
it  should  exist  in  a  single  stretch,  or  at  least 
it  should  not  consist  of  a  number  of  scattered 
pieces. 

Apart  from  questions  of  tennis  and  croquet, 
the  grass  is  a  valuable  background  to  the 
flowers;  a  place  where  the  feet  may  escape  the 
"crunch "  of  gravel,  and  one  may  find  perhaps  a 
corner  bathed  in  shadow,  from  which  to  look 
out  upon  one  aspect  of  the  garden  picture, 
or  to  enjoy  one's  thoughts  or  thoughts  of 
another  between  the  covers  of  a  book. 

Let  the  grass,  therefore,  take  its  proper 
place,  and  be  duly  proportioned  to  the  rest. 
And  so  with  the  beds  and  borders.  It  is  little 
short  of  vandalism  to  fret  the  lawn  into  a 
lace-work  of  fantastically  fashioned  beds,   in 


THE    GARDEN    PICTURE  37 

which  geometry  is  invoked  to  provide  the 
gardener  with  inspiration.  Nature  does  not 
grow  her  flower  groups  within  the  rigid  limits 
of  five-pointed  stars,  crescents,  and  crosses. 
Beds  in  grass  are  sometimes  admirable  features 
in  the  general  scheme,  if  modelled  on  simple 
shapes.  The  more  elaborate  the  form  of  the 
bed  the  more  time  and  labour  will  be  expended 
in  preserving  its  geometry,  and  the  less  enjoy- 
ment will  be  derived  from  the  flowers.  The 
maker  of  stars  and  crescents,  moreover, 
should  realize  that  an  acute  angle  is  an  awk- 
ward one  to  which  to  adapt  his  flowers,  and 
that  to  preserve  the  outlines  of  such  beds  it 
is  necessary  to  fill  them  with  puny  plants, 
which,  by  constant  pinching,  are  prevented 
from  developing  their  natural  charm  of  form 
and  character.  The  result  is  that  the  bed  is 
exalted  above  the  flower,  and  the  whole  device 
becomes  a  mere  formal  patch  of  colour,  ex- 
citing no  more  worthy  emotion  than  an  admira- 
tion for  the  gardener's  patience  and  skill  with 
the  turf  trimmer.  Better  to  adopt  a  simple 
circle,  square,  or  rectangle  and  to  be  not 
too  particular  if  the  flowers  spread  on  to  the 
grass,   so   long   as   they   grow   under   natural 


38  GARDEN    PLANNING 

conditions  and  yield  their  harvest  of  blossom. 
The  outlines  they  create  under  such  treatment 
blend  softly  with  the  turf,  and  are  far  more 
sightly  than  the  hard  edges  fresh  from  the 
trimming  tool. 

I  have  already  made  it  clear  that  the  garden 
design  must  grow  out  of  the  garden  itself, 
and  this  is  only  another  way  of  saying  that 
the  garden  must  harmonize  with  its  site  and 
surroundings.  There  may  be  some  conspicuous 
natural  feature  on  the  site  which  would  furnish 
a  theme  for  the  designer  —  a  knoll,  a  drop  in 
level,  or  the  presence  of  a  natural  pond  or 
stream.  Whatever  it  be,  it  may  be  utilized 
as  a  basis  on  which  to  build  up  the  other  details. 
The  house  also  may  provide  the  theme,  and 
then  the  garden  must  be  designed  to  harmonize 
with  its  outlines  and  character. 

A  house  permitted  to  stand  up  bleak  and 
naked  from  an  expanse  of  gravel  or  turf  will 
always  wear  an  aspect  of  aloofness  from  the 
garden.  The  first  care  of  the  designer,  there- 
fore, should  be  to  fill  in  the  angles  where  the 
house  rises  above  the  ground,  either  by  the 
use  of  shrubs,  or  by  placing  borders  against 
the  house  wall,  as  circumstances  may  dictate. 


THE    GARDEN    PICTURE  39 

Preconceived  ideas,  acquired  before  the  site 
has  been  thoroughly  surveyed,  should  not 
be  allowed  to  influence  the  designer.  Your 
neighbour's  garden  may  be  a  model  of  good 
taste  and  successful  horticulture,  but,  slavishly 
copied  on  another  site,  may  be  a  dismal  failure. 

The  picturesque  character  of  a  garden  may 
be  marred  as  much  by  sins  of  commission  as 
by  sins  of  omission.  There  are  gardens  in 
which  no  expense  has  been  spared  to  ensure 
a  splendid  succession  of  bloom,  utterly  ruined 
by  the  introduction  of  garish  and  incongruous 
accessories.  The  smaller  the  plot,  the  stronger 
apparently  the  temptation  to  import  these 
eyesores.  The  garden  maker  cannot  be  too 
watchful  against  the  use  of  inharmonious 
features.  Such  accessories  as  summer  houses, 
arches,  pergolas,  dials,  and  garden  seats  should 
be  designed  to  suit  the  garden,  and  their 
details  and  mode  of  construction  should  be 
simple  and  unostentatious.  Paint  should  be 
sparingly  used,  if  at  all,  and  its  colour  should 
be  chosen  so  as  not  to  compete  with  the  flowers. 
I  have  seen  a  wide  expanse  of  trellis  painted 
canary  yellow,  which  for  crudity  and  ill-taste 
would  be  hard  to  match,  yet  the  perpetrator 


40  GARDEN    PLANNING 

was  content  to  grow  nasturtiums  upon  it, 
quite  unconscious  of  having  outraged  the 
canons  of  art. 

The  so-called  "rustic"  work  is  rarely  in 
good  taste.  If  the  summer  house  is  to  be 
decorated,  what  better  means  can  be  found 
than  allowing  some  pretty  creeper  to  scramble 
over  it,  softening  its  outline  and  loading  it 
with  bloom  .^ 

Terra-cotta,  china,  and  cast-iron  vases  should 
be  used  with  caution.  They  are  generally  out 
of  scale  in  a  small  garden,  and  never  quite 
satisfactory  unless  associated  with  a  terrace 
wall,  or  some  similar  structure.  In  most 
cases  their  place  could  be  taken  by  stout 
oaken  tubs,  with  advantages  on  the  score  of 
appearance. 

The  gardener  must*  be  hoplessly  depraved 
if  he  admit  such  objects  as  minerals,  mechanical 
models,  and  sea-shells  into  his  garden.  If  he 
possesses  any  of  these  curiosities  let  him  find 
a  place  for  them  apart  in  a  special  museum. 

Given  discretion  in  excluding  the  inartistic 
and  incongruous,  there  may  be  still  room  for 
mistakes  in  the  use  of  garden  accessories. 
They  may  be  selected  so  as  not  to  be  in  proper 


THE    GARDEN    PICTURE  4I 

scale  with  the  garden,  or  with  that  part  of 
the  garden  in  which  they  are  to  be  installed. 
In  these  matters  the  designer's  instincts  must 
guide  him  to  the  attainment  of  what  is  correct. 
Good  proportion  is  largely  a  matter  of  intuition, 
though  a  sense  of  fitness  may  come  from 
knowledge  and  good  sense.  Let  the  garden 
maker  decide  as  far  as  possible  by  the  help 
of  both.     The  golden  rules  are: 

Use  before  ornament. 

Simplicity. 

Appropriateness. 

Sound  construction. 

Scale.  . 

As  every  garden  picture  must  have  a  focus, 
or,  in  other  words,  a  point  of  interest  to  which 
the  eye  will  naturally  direct  itself  before  it 
can  properly  appreciate  the  general  effect, 
I  attach  much  value  to  the  summer  house  as 
a  suitable  device  for  the  purpose.  It  makes 
a  very  natural  terminal  to  the  principal  path, 
and  is  therefore  "led  up  to^'  in  such  a  way  as 
to  enhance  its  usefulness  for  this  purpose. 
Again,  the  pointed  roof  is  admirably  adapted 
for  constituting  the  apex  or  summit  of  the 
garden  picture.     This   particularly  applies  to 


42  GARDEN    PLANNING 

new  gardens,  before  it  Is  possible  to  utilize 
the  trees  as  conspicuous  elements  in  the  picture. 
A  well-constructed  summer  house,  weather- 
proof, and  placed  so  that  its  open  side  is  in 
shade,  is  a  most  desirable  addition  to  any- 
garden,  however  small,  both  as  a  picturesque 
feature  in  the  design  and  as  a  useful  retreat 
in  hot  or  rainy  weather. 

Of  other  garden  accessories  I  shall  have 
occasion  to  treat  in  their  proper  place. 

Though  I  am  writing  in  the  main  in  the  in- 
terest of  flower  lovers,  I  shall  make  reference 
to  the  kitchen  garden,  and  here  I  may  point 
out  that  it  is  often  feasible  to  so  wed  it  to  the 
flower  ground  that  it  materially  helps  the 
garden  picture.  In  small  gardens,  where  the 
owner  desires  to  reserve  a  plot  for  vegetables, 
the  apparent  size  of  the  garden  is  reduced  if 
the  vegetable  ground  is  screened  off.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  left  in  full  view,  it  contrasts 
too  conspicuously  with  the  flower  ground. 

It  is  best  to  take  both  factors  into  considera- 
tion when  making  the  garden  design,  and,  by 
means  which  I  shall  describe  in  detail  later 
on,  to  blend  flower  and  kitchen  garden  into 
harmony.     In  this  way  the  garden  vistas  may 


THE    GARDEN    PICTURE  43 

be  lengthened  without  curtailing  the  vegetable 
space,  and  even  the  tenants  of  the  latter  may 
be  made  in  some  measure  to  contribute  to  the 
garden  picture,  particularly  if  fruit  is  grown. 

There  are  certain  practical  considerations 
in  town  and  suburban  gardens  which  demand 
that  the  vegetables  should  be  grown  in  that 
part  of  the  plot  most  remote  from  the  house. 
If  fruit  trees  be  planted  in  the  kitchen  plot, 
the  blossom  in  its  season  is  valuable  at  a  time 
when  the  flower  garden  is  but  little  advanced 
toward  its  summer  display. 

There  is  only  one  other  point  to  emphasize, 
and  that  has  reference  to  garden  management 
rather  than  to  garden  making.  Yet  it  is 
worth  noting.  I  refer  to  what  some  gardeners 
call  "tidiness."  The  striving  after  a  neat, 
trim,  and  well-kept  garden  is  apt  to  lead  the 
gardener  into  a  ruthless  trimming  and  pinching 
of  plants.  It  is  one  of  the  things  which  can 
be  too  well  done.  The  truly  artistic  garden 
is  one  in  which  the  plant  has  full  scope  to  de- 
velop its  character.  It  wants  elbow-room, 
and  has  no  respect  for  artificial  boundaries.  It 
Is  a  sin  to  curb  and  mutilate  the  plant  because, 
forsooth,  it  pushes  out  its  foliage  across  the 


44  GARDEN    PLANNING 

path.  Rather  let  it  enjoy  its  liberty.  The 
occasional  plant  which  has  more  than  repaid 
your  care  by  exceeding  its  neighbour  in  vigour 
of  growth  deserves  encouragement.  Let  it 
sprawl  in  reason.  It  will  soften  the  edge 
of  your  border  and  redeem  the  straightness 
of  its  line.  I  would  even  designedly  place 
certain  plants  so  that  they  may  behave  in 
this  manner. 

And,  lastly,  beware  of  the  too  liberal  prun- 
ing of  trees  and  shrubs.  Nature  is  always  right. 
She  gives  a  character  to  each  one  of  her  crea- 
tions, which  is  its  birthright.  To  trim  all  trees 
to  a  uniform  shape,  like  the  wooden  models  in 
a  child's  Noah's  Ark,  is  to  destroy  their  indi- 
viduality and  charm,  and  to  introduce  the 
very  essence  of  formality  into  the  garden. 


CHAPTER  IV 
The  Rectilinear  Principle 

I  NOW  propose  to  enter  more  intimately 
Into  the  practical  details  of  garden  design- 
ing. The  suburban  garden  is  usually  a  rectangle. 
Its  four  boundaries  are  straight  lines,  and  its 
area  is  so  restricted  that  these  boundaries 
are  only  too  obvious  to  the  person  standing 
within  them. 

The  house  is  square  at  its  angles,  squarely 
placed  within  the  garden  boundaries,  and 
rightly  so.  Thus  the  problem  of  designing 
the  details  of  the  garden  Is  encompassed  by 
conditions  which  demand  special  consideration. 
We  cannot  Ignore  the  fact  that  the  skeleton 
on  which  we  have  to  build  our  garden  plan 
is  a  thing  of  straight  lines  and  right  angles. 
The  problem,  therefore,  for  the  garden  designer 
is  to  evolve  a  style  of  planning  that  will  best 
harmonize  with  these  elements,  which  by  no 
ingenuity  of  contrivance  can  be  suppressed. 

45 


46  GARDEN    PLANNING 

The  treatment  I  advocate  is  based  upon  the 
use  of  straight  lines,  and  experience  has  shown 
that  it  is  the  only  successful  method  of  solving 
the  problem.  I  have  termed  it  the  "rectilinear 
principle."  It  might,  at  first  sight,  appear  to 
imply  the  very  essence  of  formality,  but,  under 
careful  scrutiny,  this  objection  disappears. 
Let  us  consider  the  alternative:  this  would 
involve  the  use  of  curves  or  irregular  lines, 
which  would  at  once  establish  a  new  factor 
in  the  problem.  The  curves  might  be  laid 
down  with  the  utmost  skill  with  a  view  to 
obtaining  a  unity  inter  se,  but  they  would 
individually  and  collectively  remain  in  perma- 
nent discord  with  the  rectilinear  boundaries, 
emphasizing  their  squareness. 

It  should  be  understood  that  the  problem 
under  consideration  is  the  planning  of  a  garden 
of  moderate  size,  to  which  type  of  garden  alone 
I  should  apply  the  rectilinear  treatment. 

On  garden  plots  of  larger  size,  even  if 
bounded  by  straight  lines,  the  case  is  different. 
Usually  means  may  be  adopted  in  such  cases 
to  sufficiently  mask  the  fences  or  walls,  which, 
owing  to  the  larger  area  of  the  plot,  would 
never  be  obtrusive. 


THE    RECTILINEAR    PRINCIPLE  47 

I  claim  no  novelty  for  the  rectilinear  system. 
In  some  form  or  other  it  has  been  in  use  by 
garden  planners  since  the  days  of  the  ancient 
Egyptians,  but  not  always  applied  in  a  way 
to  secure  the  best  possible  results.  Modern 
gardeners,  having  acquired  a  horror  of  formal 
effect,  have  sought  to  avoid  it  by  the  introduc- 
tion of  winding  paths  and  sinuous  edges  to 
their  borders.  My  object  is  to  show  that 
these  devices  do  not  achieve  their  purpose, 
but  rather  defeat  it. 

The  question  of  formality  in  a  small  garden 
must  be  tackled  in  another  way. 

The  use  of  straight  lines  does  not  preclude 
variety  and  the  other  factors  which  make  for 
picturesque  effect.  But  when  allied  to  an 
obvious  symmetry  it  does  engender  formality. 
Therefore  I  exclude  from  the  rectilinear  system 
any  arrangement  which  gives  equal-sidedness 
to  the  garden. 

These  points  will  be  better  appreciated 
by  reference  to  Fig.  3. 

At  A  is  shown  the  type  of  garden  only  too 
common.  I  may  call  it  the  rectangular  sym- 
metrical style.  It  has  crystallized  into  a 
permanent  feature  in  many  city  lots.     Its  faults 


48 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


are  many  and  obvious.  It  is  not  correlated 
with  aspect,  and  therefore  does  not  make  the 
most  of  the  space.  Such  a  garden  would 
handicap  the  flower  grower.  Its  symmetry 
is  too  pronounced  to  be  capable  of  being 
masked  in  the  planting.     Its  circuit   path  is 


ABC 

Fig.  3.  —  Garden  styles  compared 

a  waste  of  gravel  and  a  waste  of  space.     It  has 
no  distinction,  and  it  would  elude  the  gardener 


THE    RECTILINEAR    PRINCIPLE  49 

who   sought   to    make   it   picturesque    in    the 
fullest  sense. 

B  is  the  garden  which  hopes  to  avoid  for- 
mality by  the  use  of  curves,  but  fails  in  its 
mission  because  its  lines  are  out  of  harmony 
with  its  boundaries. 

C  is  a  simple  application  of  the  rectilinear 
principle,  based  upon  a  careful  consideration 
of  aspect.  In  the  last  example  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  principal  borders  enjoy  full  sun, 
that  the  main  lines  are  parallel  with  the 
boundary  fences,  and  therefore  appear  as  a 
natural  suggestion  from  those  boundaries; 
that  the  path  has  a  definite  purpose  —  to  take 
the  traffic  where  the  attraction  of  the  flowers 
leads  it  —  and  that  it  begins  and  ends  some- 
where. The  grass  is  confined  to  a  single  area, 
and  includes  no  shapes  which  would  be  difficult 
to  attack  with  a  mower.  The  keynote  is 
simplicity,  which  implies  dignity  and  harmony. 
Such  a  garden  could  be  planted  with  the  best 
results  in  securing  a  really  artistic  general 
effect. 

It  may  be  remarked,  to  prevent  misappre- 
hension, that  this  design  is  capable  of  con- 
siderable  modification  to    suit  circumstances. 


50  GARDEN    PLANNING 

It  is  adapted  in  this  case  to  a  north-east  aspect. 
For  other  aspects  the  positions  of  the  borders 
would  be  altered,  and  other  details  would  need 
modification. 

Apart  from  the  more  important  advantages 
already  mentioned  it  is  clear  that  it  has 
others  of  minor  moment,  yet  desirable  from 
the  gardener's  point  of  view.  The  edging  of 
straight  borders  is  always  more  easily  managed 
than  that  of  curved  ones.  Stone  or  concrete 
edges  take  truer  lines,  and  are  more  easily  kept 
in  place.  The  trimming  of  grass  edges  can 
always  be  controlled  by  a  stretched  cord. 
A  straight  path  is  the  shortest  route  between 
any  two  points. 

In  the  next  following  chapters  I  shall  show 
in  more  detail  how  the  rectilinear  system 
may  be  applied  to  the  making  of  a  really 
picturesque  garden. 


CHAPTER  V 

The   Elements   of   the   Garden   Plan 

There  are  three  main  factors  In  the  garden 
plan  —  the  beds,  the  walks,  and  the  grass. 

In  the  evolution  of  the  garden  design  the 
beds  (in  which  term  I  include  borders)  should 
receive  first  consideration.  They  may  well 
occupy  more  space  than  is  usually  allowed 
them.  The  narrow  strips  of  border  so  often 
seen  skirting  the  fences  of  suburban  gardens 
are  practically  useless  for  flower  culture.  A 
width  of  six  feet  is  not  too  much  for  the 
principal  border,  and  it  should,  if  possible, 
be  in  full  sun.  If  the  main  path  defines  its 
near  boundary,  another  border  parallel  to  it 
may  be  made  on  the  other  side  of  the  path 
but  narrower,  say  four  feet  wide.  This  dis- 
parity in  width  is  designed  to  secure  variety 
and  to  eliminate  one  -  sidedness.  Two  such 
borders,  the  wide  one  planted  with  shrubs  and 
herbaceous  plants,  the  narrow  one  with  surface- 

51 


52  GARDEN    PLANNING 

growing  flowers,  become  complementary,  and 
ofl'er  opportunity  for  many  charming  effects, 
and  for  the  creation  of  a  fine  vista.  The  narrow 
border  would  on  one  side  abut  on  the  grass 
plot,  and  short  transverse  extensions  of  it 
might  be  carried  into  the  grass  area  to  break 
its  inner  line  and  to  extend  the  flower  space 
laterally.  Such  offshoots  from  a  long  border 
become  partial  screens,  helping  to  secure 
that  quality  which  I  have  already  referred 
to  as  "reticence." 

It  is  by  no  means  necessary  that  every  border 
should  be  served  by  a  path.  On  the  con- 
trary, variety  of  effect  is  assisted  by  intro- 
ducing a  border  between  the  grass  and  the 
boundary  fence,  say  on  the  side  of  the  garden 
opposite  to  the  main  walk.  These  points  I 
shall  further  elucidate  when  I  come  to  consider 
special  examples.  The  main  point  I  wish  to 
emphasize  at  this  stage  is  that  the  borders, 
in  which  the  gardener  aims  at  securing  his 
principal  flower  display,  should  be  in  full  sun, 
and  served  by  the  principal  path.  I  also 
desire  to  make  it  clear  that  these  borders  must 
be  the  dominating  factor  in  the  design,  for 
it  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  they  constitute 


ELEMENTS  OF  THE  GARDEN  PLAN     53 

the  garden  in  the  truest  sense  of  the  word. 
The  path  is  for  utility,  the  grass  for  repose,  and 
both  must  ever  be  subordinate  to  the  beds 
and  borders.  Hence  we  cannot  give  too  careful 
thought  to  the  latter. 

Just  how  the  further  elaboration  of  the 
scheme  is  contrived  after  the  positions  of  the 
principal  borders  have  been  determined  will 
depend  upon  circumstances  and  the  fancy  of 
the  garden  maker.  If  the  garden  is  of  con- 
siderable length  it  may  be  advisable  to  divert 
the  path  before  it  has  traversed  the  full  extent 
of  the  plot.  How  this  may  be  done  without 
sacrificing  the  welfare  of  the  flowers,  and  with 
best  results  to  the  garden  picture,  will  appear 
hereafter.  I  mention  it  here  as  one  of  the 
legitimate  devices  for  securing  a  desirable 
quality  in  the  plan.  The  introduction  of 
detached  beds  also  Is  a  matter  In  which  the 
taste  of  the  designer  must  be  his  most  trust- 
worthy guide. 

An  expedient  I  have  often  employed  is  to 
allow  the  path  to  expand  into  a  square  at  some 
point  of  its  length,  and  to  install  a  square  bed 
in  its  centre.  This  is  a  very  convenient 
device  when  it  is  required  to  effect  a  slight 


54  GARDEN    PLANNING 

deviation  in  the  path  without  altering  its 
direction,  as  the  path  may  enter  the  square 
at  one  corner,  and  leave  it  by  the  diagonally 
opposite  corner.  (Fig.  4.)  Beds 
in  grass,  when  set  near  its 
boundary,  should  be  allowed 
a  verge  of  at  least  eighteen 
inches,  to  prevent  difficulties 
in  mowing.  The  use  of  circles 
and  parts  of  circles,  as  well  as 
of  figures  in  which  the  angles 
are  equal  and  not  less  than 
a  right  angle  —  the  hexagon, 
for  example  —  is  not  opposed 
to  the  rectilinear  system  of 
treatment.  They  become  mere 
details,  in  no  special  way  related  to  the  lead- 
ing lines  of  the  garden  plan. 

Though  the  principal  borders  should  usurp 
the  best  position  in  the  garden,  there  is  no 
reason  why  the  gardener  should  not  make  a 
border  in  the  shade,  where  he  may  grow  such 
plants  as  thrive  best  under  that  condition. 
The  foot  of  a  southern  boundary  fence  is  well 
suited  for  a  shady  border,  because  it  is  warm 
as    well    as    shady.     Ferns,    lily-of-the-valley, 


Fig.  4. —  Expansion 
of  path 


ELEMENTS  OF  THE  GARDEN  PLAN     55 

and  Solomon's  Seal  would  thrive  In  such  a 
border,  as  well  as  a  multitude  of  other  plants. 

When  the  house  does  not  stand  squarely 
within  its  boundaries,  or  when  the  garden 
boundaries  are  straight  but  not  rectangular,  as 
in  a  plot  which  tapers  in  the  direction  of  its 
length,  the  problem  requires  some  special  consid- 
eration; but  usually  means  may  be  devised  to 
bring  the  garden  details  into  harmony  with 
these  disconcerting  factors,  as  a  perusal  of 
some  of  the  plans  in  Chapter  XVIII  will  show. 

I  have  said  that  the  paths  exist  for  utility. 
That  is  so  in  a  large  measure,  but  they  have  a 
further  value,  in  linking  together  the  other 
elements  of  the  garden.  Moreover,  a  path  is 
an  objective  invitation  to  walk  through  the 
garden  and  enjoy  its  beauties.  A  garden 
without  a  path  would  hardly  satisfy  the  eye. 
On  the  other  hand,  nothing  is  so  wasteful  of 
space,  or  so  irritating  to  the  eye,  as  a  multitude 
of  paths  cutting  up  the  garden  into  small 
compartments  and  destroying  the  breadth 
of  the  picture. 

There  are  two  principal  points  in  every  path, 
or  should  be  —  the  beginning  and  the  end. 
Paths  which  start  nowhere  and  end  at  a  blank 


56  GARDEN    PLANNING 

wall  suggest  purposelessness.  It  may  be  taken 
as  an  axiom  that  the  principal  path  should 
commence  at  some  point  conveniently  near, 
and  preferably  facing,  the  door  by  which  the 
house  inmates  enter  their  garden.  Its  direction 
should  be  through  the  flowers,  and  it  should 
have  a  natural  termination,  or  final  destination. 
The  best  terminal  to  a  garden  path  in  my 
opinion  is  the  summer  house,  and  when  that 
feature  is  non-existent,  an  arbour,  or  some  other 
erection,  should  serve  the  purpose.  Failing 
that,  the  path  might  terminate  in  a  square 
expansion,  in  which  a  seat,  sundial,  or  other 
appropriate  object  might  be  placed.  It  would 
be  better  to  end  it  at  a  tool  house  or  garage, 
or  even  at  a  potting-shed,  than  to  allow  it 
to  stop  suddenly  nowhere. 

All  deviations  in  the  direction  of  the  path 
should  be  made  at  right  angles.  Diagonal 
paths  are  not  permissible.  They  never  look 
well  in  a  small  garden. 

The  value  of  a  path  is  mainly  in  proportion 
to  its  utility.  After  rain  or  heavy  dew  the 
garden  would  be  uninviting  without  a  path. 
It  also  preserves  the  turf  from  traffic,  which 
would  soon  wear  it  to  bareness.     This  sums 


ELEMENTS  OF  THE  GARDEN  PLAN     57 

Up  the  path's  usefulness.  That  it  has  also  a 
certain  value  in  the  general  picture  I  have 
already  conceded.  I  have  seen  it  laid  down 
in  handbooks  on  gardening  that  the  smaller 
ihe  garden  the  more  the  need  for  the  "wind- 
ing path,"  which,  it  is  claimed,  adds  to  the 
"apparent  length  of  the  garden."  I  cannot 
conceive  that  any  such  result  could  follow  in  a 
garden  the  boundaries  of  which  are  visible 
on  every  side.  The  winding  path  in  a  small 
plot  serves  only  to  cut  up  the  space  into  irreg- 
ularly shaped  areas,  the  treatment  of  which 
will  tax  the  skill  of  the  planner  to  deal  with 
successfully,  whilst  the  additional  amount  of 
gravel  surface  is  so  much  deducted  from  what 
might  be  made  productive  flower  ground. 

The  width  of  the  path  must  bear  some  re- 
lation to  the  scale  of  the  garden.  In  com- 
paratively small  plots,  economy  of  space  sug- 
gests that  it  should  be  the  minimum  compatible 
with  its  purpose.  I  do  not  favour  a  less  width 
than  three  feet  for  a  principal  path  under 
any  circumstances. 

In  larger  gardens  greater  width  may  be 
permitted,  as  there  is  a  certain  distinction  and 
dignity  in  a  broad  walk  when  all    else  is  in 


58  GARDEN    PLANNING 

proportion.  In  a  half-acre  plot  a  width  of  five 
feet  might  be  desirable. 

The  practical  details  of  path  making  will 
be  treated  in  a  separate  chapter,  but  I  may 
here  refer  to  the  path  material,  more  particu- 
larly as  regards  its  colour  and  texture.  Red 
gravel,  coarse  sand,  bricks,  and  tiles  are 
warm  in  tone,  contrasting  well  with  the  grass 
and  harmonizing  with  the  flowers  and  their 
foliage.  Granite  chips,  cinders,  tarred  gravel, 
blue  stone,  and  cement  are  cold  and  unin- 
viting, and  should  only  be  used  when  other 
materials  are  unobtainable. 

Red  gravel  (of  the  right  kind,  which  binds 
well),  bricks,  tiles,  tarred  gravel,  and  cement 
make  paths  with  a  close,  hard  surface.  Sand 
or  pebbles,  stone  chips,  cinders,  and  blue  stone 
never  bind  thoroughly,  and  therefore  make 
paths  with  a  loose  surface,  which,  apart 
from  the  unpleasant  feeling  underfoot,  Im- 
plies that  much  loose  material  will  adhere 
to  the  boots  and  be  carried  on  to  the 
grass,  with  disastrous  results  to  the  knives  of 
the  mower. 

Though  paths,  as  a  rule,  should  be  made  of 
equal     width     throughout,     it     is     sometimes 


ELEMENTS  OF  THE  GARDEN  PLAN     59 

advisable  when  they  are  of  any  great  length, 
and  particularly  if  straight,   to  introduce   at 


^ 


0 


Fig.  s. —  Expansion  of  path 


6o  GARDEN    PLANNING 

some  suitable  point  an  expansion  in  width  to 
break  the  line. 

This  should  be  done  in  one  of  the  ways  in- 
dicated in  the  illustration  (Fig.  5).  These 
expansions  may  be  utilized  to  accommodate 
garden    seats,    sundials,    vases   or   tubs,   trees 


Fig.  6. —  Expansion  of  path 

or  beds,  so  as  not  to  appear  quite  purposeless. 

Expansions  of  the  kind  indicated  are  well 

placed  at  points  where  a  secondary  path  breaks 


EtEMENTS  OF  THE  GARDEN  PLAN     6l 

off  from  the  principal  one;  also  at  the  terminal 
of  a  path,  as  already  mentioned. 

In  winding  paths  they  would  take  a  form 
more  in  harmony  with  the  lines  of  the  path, 
as  the  examples  illustrated  in  Fig.  6  show. 

Although  the  rectilinear  system,  as  adapted 
to  small  gardens,  demands  that  path  offshoots 
should  be  made  to  leave  the  path  at  right 
angles,  the  same  does  not  apply  to  curved 
paths,  in  which  all  by-paths  must  leave  the 
main  path  at  a  more  or  less  acute  angle,  the 
curves  of  both  being  laid  down  to  form  a 
pleasing  combination  of  lines,  thus: 

Thedictumof 
a  distinguished 
landscape  gar- 
dener on  this 
question  may 
be  taken  as  an 

axiom.        Rep-  Fig.  7.— Path  junction 

ton,  as  quoted 

by  Mawson,  says:  "When  two  walks  diverge 
from  each  other  they  should  not  appear  as  if 
they  were  intended  to  join  again,  but  rather 
as  if  each  led  to  points  far  apart." 

The  use  of  curved  paths,  though  inadmissible 


62 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


in  small  plots,  Is  quite  legitimate  and  even 
desirable  in  plots  of  larger  size,  and  I  may 
therefore  offer  some  guidance  for  laying 
them  out. 

Curves  should  be  set  out  in  good,  bold  sweeps. 
Grace  of  line  is  only  to  be  obtained  by  a  prac- 
tised eye  guided  by  an  intuitive  sense  of  what 
is  pleasing,  so  that  the  best  achievements 
in  this  direction  are  usually  the  result  of  skill, 
knowledge,  and  artistic  instinct.  A  hint  may 
be  given  as  to  what  should  be  avoided. 

Thus  the  curve  A  in  the  illustration  (Fig.  8)  is- 
better  than  B. 

Mr.  Mawson 
inhisadmirable 
book,  "The  Art 
and  Craft  of 
Garden  Mak- 
ing," says  of 
garden  walks:  "They  should  be  arranged 
in  such  a  way  that  the  beauties  of  the  place 
may  be  exhibited,  not  by  a  series  of  wriggles, 
but  in  a  simple  straightforward  manner." 

As  a  rule,  these  curves  are  best  not  modelled 
on  a  geometrical  basis, — i.  e.,  one  in  which  parts 
of  circles  do  duty  as  their  components.     It  is 


Fig.  8. —  Curves  in  paths 


ELEMENTS  OF  THE  GARDEN  PLAN     63 

better  that  they  should  have  that  flowing 
character  of  which  we  find  the  counterpart 
in  nature  in  the  graceful  lines  of  a  bending 
sedge  or  the  curved  stem  of  a  flower  spike. 
Thus  the  planner  should  rely  on  freehand  rather 
than  the  compasses. 

In  laying  down  such  a  curved  path  the  novice 
is  too  apt  to  overlook  the  spaces  to  right  and 
left.  He  should  ever  bear  in  mind  that  his 
walks  subdivide  the  garden  space,  and  on  the 
course  they  take  will  depend  the  shape  of  the 
areas  they  bound  or  enclose.  Thus  in  the  case 
of  a  path  skirting  the  garden  boundary  the 
amount  and  shape  of  the  space  between  it  and 
the  boundary  fence  must  be  considered.  For 
instance,  it  would  be  bad  practice  to  leave  a 
strip  too  wide  for  a  border  but  too  narrow  to 
carry  a  border  with  grass  in  front  of  it. 

I  now  pass  on  to  the  third  element  in  the 
garden  plan  —  the  grass.  From  the  fore- 
going it  will  be  seen  how  closely  correlated  it 
is  with  the  other  factors. 

In  small  gardens  it  is  best  to  confine  the 
grass  to  a  single  area,  though  circumstances 
may  arise  to  make  it  desirable  to  depart  from 
this    rule.     In    such   event    the    second    grass 


64  GARDEN    PLANNING 

space  should  be  subordinate  to  the  principal 
one,  and  if  possible  reserved  for  a  separate 
purpose.  To  bisect  the  garden  into  two  equal 
areas  of  grass  is  at  once  to  introduce  symmetry. 
The  artist  well  knows  how  fatal  it  is  to  a  good 
pictorial  effect  to  allot  equal  spaces  to  sky 
and  landscape.     The  two  cases  are  parallel. 

In  gardens  of  the  size  I  am  now  considering 
the  idea  of  a  "  lawn  "  for  games  is  rarely  realiz- 
able for  want  of  space,  and  the  grass  plot, 
therefore,  should  be  treated  with  other  pur- 
poses in  view.  Its  functions  are  more  closely 
related  to  the  flowers  and  general  picture. 
It  affords  welcome  relief  to  the  eye,  and  by 
contrast  enhances  the  value  of  the  colour  effect 
obtainable  with  the  flowers.  Moreover,  its 
surface  presents  a  cool,  soft,  and  welcome 
tread,  and  a  place  to  "laze"  upon  and  enjoy 
the  garden  vistas. 

It  is  that  part  of  the  garden  in  which  we 
may  plant  a  few  trees  for  shade,  without  fear 
that  their  shadows  and  hungry  roots  will 
work  havoc  with  the  flowers.  The  grass  plot 
should  never  be  isolated  by  surrounding  it  on 
all  sides  with  gravel,  as  too  often  is  done  in 
the  type  of  garden  illustrated  in  Fig.  3A,  the 


ELEMENTS  OF  THE  GARDEN  PLAN     65 

garden  with  a  circuit  path  so  beloved  by 
suburban  dwellers.  Let  one  or  more  of  the 
sides  join  a  border,  where  grass  and  flowers 
would  come  into  juxtaposition.  Even  let 
the  border  thrust  out  an  extension  into  the 
grass   in  the   manner  suggested   in   the   early 


(^ 


0^0 


B 


(? 


Fig.  9. —  The  grouping  of  beds 

part  of  this  chapter.  But  beware  of  fretting 
your  principal  grass  plot  into  a  thing  of  ragged 
outline  by  overdoing  this  procedure,  and  do 
not  pierce  it  with  a  multitude  of  little  beds. 
Remember  also  that  the  simpler  in  shape  your 
grass  plot,  the  less  difficulty  you  will  experience 
in  mowing  it  and  keeping  it  trim   and    neat. 


66  GARDEN    PLANNING 

Beds  in  grass  are  best  grouped  at  one  or  two 
points,  and  the  components  of  the  group  should 
be  shaped  so  as  to  produce  unity  of  effect.  Com- 
pare the  two  examples  illustrated  on  page  65 
(A  correctly  grouped,  B  incorrectly  grouped). 

It  is  generally  better  that  the  outlines  of 
the  group  should  preserve  a  parallelism  with 
those  of  the  grass  plot,  as  this  ensures  a  more 
harmonious  effect. 

From  what  I  have  written  about  the  im- 
portance of  making  aspect  the  guiding  factor 
in  garden  design,  it  is  clear  that  the  gardener 
should  contrive,  as  far  as  possible,  that  the 
principal  shadows  in  his  garden  should  fall 
upon  the  grass,  where  they  will  be  welcome  as 
shade,  and  will  not  preclude  the  growth  of  good 
turf.  Small  detached  grass  spaces,  if  unavoid- 
able, may  be  made  interesting  by  planting 
them  with  bulbs,  thereby  securing  a  charming 
feature  in  spring  and  early  summer.  Another 
plan  is  to  utilize  the  space  for  a  sunken  rock 
garden,  and  yet  another  is  to  make  a  cen- 
tral group  of  beds  upon  it,  which  in  the  case 
of  a  square  space  becomes  an  attractive 
secondary  focus. 

An  important  point  is  to  give  proper  access 


ELEMENTS  OF  THE  GARDEN  PLAN     d'] 

to  all  grass  spaces.  This  implies  that  the 
borders  should  not  bar  the  way  which  appears 
to  be  the  most  natural  one  of  reaching  the 
grass.  Neglect  of  this  consideration  may  tempt 
those  who  use  the  garden  to  skip  over  the 
borders,  with  consequences  to  the  plants  which 
I  need  not  particularize.  It  is  well  to  provide 
means  of  access  to  the  grass  at  all  points  from 
which  it  is  likely  to  be  approached,  by  bringing 
it  up  to  the  path  at  those  points.  This  is 
done  by  curtailing  the  border  some  three  or 
four  feet  at  its  end,  or  by  breaking  through  it 
at  some  point  in  its  length.  Many  examples 
illustrating  this  suggestion  will  be  found  in 
the  plans. 

^When  a  grass  plot  is  used  solely  as  a  back- 
ground for  a  group  of  beds,  ample  verge  should 
be  left  at  the  edges,  and,  whatever  the  shape 
of  the  beds,  the  spaces  between  bed  and  bed 
should  be  of  sufficient  width  to  ensure  no 
difficulty  in  mowing. 

In  dealing  with  grass  spaces  of  irregular 
outline,  such  as  would  occur  where  the  paths 
are  winding,  the  placing  of  the  beds  should  take 
into  account  the  outline  of  the  grass  space. 
For  instance,  a  square  group  of  beds  set  in  a 


68 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


curved  promontory  would  produce  a  discordant 
note.  Better  to  adapt  the  shape  of  the  group 
to  the  space  in  which  it  is  set. 

The  two  methods  are  here  illustrated  for  the 
sake  of  comparison,  and  a  glance  at  the  figures 


[Z7/-n\Z] 


«oB<' 


Fig.  lo. —  Girrect  form  for  groups  of  beds 

will  sufficiently  convince  the  reader  as  to  which 
method  is  most  likely  to  please  the  eye. 

There  is  no  need  to  make  the  grass  level  if 
the  ground   has   a    natural  slope,    provided, 


ELEMENTS  OF  THE  GARDEN  PLAN    69 

of  course,  "King  Tennis"  does  not  rule.  On 
the  contrary,  sloping  ground  greatly  assists 
drainage,  and  ensures  that  puddles  shall  not 
lodge  on  the  surface,  which,  on  heavy  ground, 
would  Inevitably  occur  on  a  dead-level  plot. 


CHAPTER  VI 
Making  Beds  and  Borders 

Being  Intended  solely  for  the  purpose  of 
accommodating  living  plants,  beds  and  borders 
should  be  made  so  that  they  will  furnish  every- 
thing that  a  plant  demands  of  the  soil.  This 
implies  not  only  that  the  soil  shall  be  of  such 
a  nature  as  to  supply  abundant  food  for  the 
roots,  but  that  it  shall  be  of  sufficient  depth 
and  of  proper  consistency,  and  that  it  shall 
contain  no  undesirable  constituents. 

Soils  are  as  we  find  them,  and  not  always 
as  we  would  have  them,  so  that  the  gardener 
who,  by  force  of  circumstances,  has  to  till  an 
intractable  soil,  must  adopt  artificial  means 
to  bring  it  into  a  better  condition.  Reference 
has  already  been  made  to  the  subject  in 
Chapter  II. 

Let  us  assume  that  the  gardener  is  breaking 
virgin  ground,  say  a  piece  of  old  pasture.  He 
has  staked  out  the  main  lines  of  his  garden  plan, 
70 


MAKING    BEDS    AND    BORDERS  Jl 

and  Is  about  to  make  his  beds  and  borders. 
The  soil  consists  of  a  top-spit  of  brown  loam 
overlying  a  clayey  subsoil.  If  the  latter  is  a 
stiff  clay,  and  insufficient  surface  soil  overlies 
it,  the  gardener  may  have  to  face  the  necessity 
of  importing  additional  material.  But  let 
us  assume  that  the  consistency  of  the  subsoil 
is  not  so  hopeless  as  the  above  assumption 
would  imply.  Then  the  proper  procedure 
is  to  bring  soil  and  subsoil  into  intimate  ad- 
mixture, so  that  one  may  temper  the  other, 
and  to  do  so  to  such  a  depth  as  the  ordinary 
requirements  of  horticulture  demand.  In  most 
circumstances  this  may  be  taken  as  two  feet 
or  thereabout.  This  is  best  done  by  the 
operation  known  as  "trenching,"  now  to  be 
explained. 

It  may  be  well  here  to  state  that  trenching 
is  a  term  applied  strictly  to  spade  work  which 
has  for  its  object  deep  tillage,  as  distinguished 
from  "digging,"  by  which  the  surface  layer 
of  the  soil  only  is  turned  over. 

Trenching  is  best  done  in  the  late  fall  months 
when  the  weather  is  yet  open.  It  is  conducted 
in  various  ways  according  to  the  results  re- 
quired and  to  the  previous  condition  of  the 


72  GARDEN    PLANNING 

ground.  In  "full-trenching"  the  process  has 
the  effect  of  reversing  the  relative  positions 
of  the  upper  and  lower  layers  of  soil,  so  that 
that  which  was  situated,  say,  two  feet  below 
the  surface  comes  to  the  top,  and  the  top  layer 
goes  to  the  lower  level. 

So  complete  a  reversal  may  be  admirable 
treatment  for  ground  which  has  long  been  in 
tillage,  and  therefore  already  broken  up  to 
the  trenching  depth,  but  it  would  be  inad- 
visable in  the  case  of  new  ground  such  as  we 
are  considering,  the  subsoil  of  which  had 
not  seen  the  light  perhaps  for  centuries.  On 
such  ground  the  subsoil  would  be  compacted 
and  wanting  entirely  in  the  constituents 
which  furnish  food  for  plants.  It  is  clear, 
therefore,  that  if  full-trenching  were  adopted 
the  gardener  would  have  a  very  poor  surface 
layer  in  which  to  grow  his  flowers. 

A  better  plan  would  be  to "  half-trench," 
which  consists  in  removing  the  surface  soil 
in  sections,  then  breaking  up  the  subsoil  with 
a  fork,  and  subsequently  replacing  the  surface 
soil.  But  there  is  still  a  better  method  for 
the  garden  maker,  designed  to  effect  the  more 
or  less  complete  mixing  of  the  soil  and  subsoil 


MAKING    BEDS    AND    BORDERS  73 

to  the  desired  depth.  As  that  is  the  principal 
object  he  should  have  in  view,  this  last  method 
is  the  one  for  him  to  adopt.  The  operation 
is  conducted  as  follows: 

The  ground  is  opened  up  to  the  full  depth 
by  a  trench  cut  across   the  border,  as  shown 


Fig.  II. —  Trenching 


by  the  full  line  in  the  illustration,  which 
represents  the  trench  in  cross-section.  The 
soil  removed  may  at  once  be  carried  to  a 
position  near  the  far  end  of  the  border.  The 
gardener  then  proceeds  to  fill  up  the  trench  at 
A  with  soil  taken  alternately  from  B  and  C, 
D  and  E,  and  so  on  till  he  reaches  the  end  of 
the  border,  when  the  space  left  must  be  filled 
in  with  the  soil  that  has  been  taken  there  for 
the  purpose. 

If  the  land  is  old  pasture,  care  should  be  taken 
to  bury  the  turfs,  so  they  may  in  due  time  rot 


74  GARDEN    PLANNING 

and  thereby  contribute  their  quota  to  enriching 
the  soil. 

Although  the  primary  object  of  trenching 
is  to  produce  a  workable  soil  of  sufficient 
depth,  incidentally  assisting  drainage  and 
effecting  aeration,  it  aifords  a  good  opportunity 
for  enriching  the  soil  by  incorporating  with  it 
a  proportion  of  manure.  In  the  making  of 
beds  and  borders  in  a  new  garden  this  oppor- 
tunity should  not  be  neglected.  Therefore 
the  gardener  should  have  at  hand  a  heap  of 
good  manure,  and  as  the  work  proceeds  he 
should  add  it  to  the  soil  at  a  regular  rate,  until 
the  whole  contents  of  the  border  has  been 
treated.  This  must  be  done  in  a  manner 
which  ensures  that  the  manure  be  well  dis- 
tributed in  depth,  not  merely  added  to  the 
surface  layer,  so  that  when  the  plants  send  down 
their  roots  they  will  find  a  reserve  of  food 
awaiting  them. 

Once  made  in  this  way,  the  border  will  not 
need  trenching  again  for  some  years.  The  an- 
nual digging  and  manuring  will  serve  to  keep 
it  in  efficient  condition  for  a  period  dependent 
upon  the  demands  made  upon  it. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  when  we  have 


MAKING    BEDS    AND    BORDERS  75 

planted,  and  the  plants  have  become  estab- 
lished in  the  borders,  it  is  not  possible  to  resort 
to  trenching  again  without  removing  all  the 
plants;  hence  the  necessity  for  doing  the  work 
thoroughly  in  the  first  instance. 

With  beds  and  groups  of  beds  of  compact 
shape,  trenching  as  just  described  is  hardly 
practicable.  The  better  method  is  first  to 
remove  the  top-spit  over  the  whole  surface 
of  the  bed,  heaping  it  close  at  hand;  then  to 
do  the  same  with  the  lower  layer,  making  a 
separate  heap  of  it;  after  which  the  bottom 
should  be  forked  over  and  the  soil  thrown  back, 
mixing  well  together  that  from  the  two  separate 
heaps.  A  due  proportion  of  manure  should 
be  added,  as  in  ordinary  trenching. 

Thus  far  these  directions  apply  to  soils  which 
are  naturally  well  fitted  for  the  gardener.  With 
too  light  or  too  heavy  soils  some  tempering 
material  must  be  added,  and  this  is  best  done 
when  the  beds  and  borders  are  being  formed. 

On  heavy  clay  soils  we  may  use  sand,  fine 
gravel,  ashes,  and  vegetable  matter.  It  is 
an  excellent  plan,  not  often  adopted,  I  fear, 
to  make  the  lowest  layer  of  brick  rubbish,  with 
cinders  overlying. 


76  GARDEN    PLANNING 

This  ensures  good  drainage.  At  least  two 
feet  of  soil  should  be  put  above  the  drainage 
layer.  The  cost  and  trouble  may  be  more^ 
but  the  results  will  repay  the  gardener. 


Fig.  12. —  Drainage  for  beds  and  borders 

Borders  prepared  in  this  way  do  not  suffer 
from  water-logging  even  during  wet  winters. 
In  hot  summer  weather  they  neither  bake  nor 
become  dry  for  any  great  distance  down.  If 
the  trenching  is  done  in  the  autumn,  the  winter 
frosts  will  help  to  break  up  the  clay  lumps, 
reducing  them  to  a  consistency  more  nearly 
approaching  loam.  The  important  point  in 
the  treatment  of  clay  land  is  to  secure  a  suffi- 
cient admixture  of  loose  porous  material  to 
destroy  the  tenacity  of  the  clay  and  to  permit 
of  moisture  freely  finding  its  way  down  through 
the  mass  of  soil.  A  certain  proportion  of 
vegetable  matter  is  a  gain,  as  it  has  manurial 
value.     Hence  the  gardener  may  cast  into  his 


MAKING    BEDS    AND    BORDERS  77 

trench  turfs,  weeds,  and  garden  and  house 
refuse,  which  In  due  time  will  rot  and  supply 
humus. 

On  light  soils,  which  usually  owe  their  light- 
ness to  an  undue  amount  of  sand,  or  may 
consist  almost  entirely  of  sand,  we  may  add 
stiff  loam  and  clay  to  give  it  greater  body  and 
a  more  retentive  character.  As  such  soils 
are  usually  deficient  in  humus,  vegetable 
matter  also  may  be  added  with  advantage. 

Whether  the  treatment  is  designed  to  render 
a  heavy  soil  lighter  or  a  light  one  heavier,  the 
aim  of  the  garden  maker  should  be  to  secure  a 
well-drained  bed  or  border,  the  soil  of  which, 
to  a  depth  of  at  least  two  feet,  Is  of  a  workable 
consistency  and  not  likely  to  suffer  from  ex- 
tremes of  weather,  either  in  the  direction  of 
drought  or  continued  wet. 

Such  a  soil  will  admit  air  as  easily  as  it 
admits  moisture,  and  air  performs  a  very  im- 
portant function  In  "sweetening"  and  purify- 
ing the  soil,  by  hastening  those  processes  of 
decomposition  which  are  always  taking  place. 

In  soils  of  the  heaviest  kind  it  may  be 
necessary  to  introduce  subsoil  drainage  by 
means    of   agricultural    tile,  or   rubble    drains 


78  GARDEN    PLANNING 

laid  at  regular  intervals,  but  the  gardener 
would  be  wise  to  avoid  land  which  could  be 
rendered  workable  only  by  such  means. 
Drainage  in  that  case  would  have  to  be  car- 
ried out  over  the  whole  of  the  ground  and  not 
merely  beneath  the  borders. 

On  stony  land  the  operation  of  trenching 
affords  a  good  opportunity  for  removing  an 
excess  of  stones.  I  do  not  recommend  screen- 
ing, unless  a  very  coarse  screen  is  employed, 
because  a  certain  proportion  of  stones  is  an 
advantage  to  the  soil,  helping  to  keep  it  loose 
and  workable.  It  is  therefore  generally  ad- 
visable to  throw  out  the  larger  stones  only. 

There  cannot  be  two  opinions  about  the 
wisdom  of  deep  working,  and  it  only  needs  to 
be  tried  and  the  results  noted  to  impress  the 
most  sceptical  gardener  of  its  value. 

I  now  pass  on  to  a  consideration  of  the  form 
and  disposition  of  beds  as  picturesque  ele- 
ments in  the  garden.  I  need  add  nothing  to 
what  I  have  already  said  about  borders,  be- 
cause their  position  generally  determines  their 
form,  and  aspect  decides  their  position.  I  used 
the  term  "bed"  to  distinguish  a  detached 
compartment    for    flower  growing.     Beds    are 


MAKING    BEDS    AND    BORDERS  79 

most  often  formed  in  turf.  Sometimes,  how- 
ever, they  are  given  a  background  of 
gravel,  particularly  when  a  formal  effect  is 
desired. 

Whatever  the  background,  the  form  of  bed, 
as  regards  its  outline,  is  important,  and  it 
is  essential  that  we  should  not  outrage  good 
taste  by  indulging  in  anything  of  eccentric 
character.  I  have  already  pointed  out  the 
disadvantages  from  a  practical  standpoint 
of  such  shapes  as  crescents,  stars,  and  other 
figures  having  acute  angles.  Did  not  these 
practical  objections  count,  I  should  still 
decry  these  shapes  because  of  their  obvious 
artificiality.  The  outlines  by  which  we  bound 
our  flower  beds  should  not  be  of  a  character 
to  fix  the  eye  and  divert  our  attention  from 
the  flowers.  Another  objection  to  these  bi- 
zarre shapes  is  the  great  aggregate  length  of 
their  boundaries  in  comparison  with  the  space 
they  enclose.  This  disproportion  means  that 
the  actual  length  of  edging  to  be  kept  trimmed 
and  cared  for  is  much  greater  than  is  necessary, 
and  where  beds  of  this  kind  exist  in  numbers 
the  extra  labour  is  not  negligible. 

To  take  a  concrete  case,  the  boundary  length 


8o  GARDEN    PLANNING 

of  a  five-pointed  star,  as  shown  in  the  illus- 
tration, compares  with  that  of  a  circle  of  the 
same  diameter  as  five  to  three. 

A  circle,  it  is  well  known,  encloses  the  largest 
amount  of  space  in  relation  to  its  circumference, 
and  is  therefore  the  figure  which  has  the 
smallest  length  of  boundary.  The  octagon, 
hexagon,  and  pentagon  come  next  in  economy 
of  boundary,   and   the   square   and   rectangle 


Fig.  13. —  Shapes  of  beds 

follow.  If  the  gardener  goes  beyond  these 
simple  shapes  he  will  necessarily  become 
lavish  of  edging.  I  do  not  mean  to  say  that 
he  is  on  that  account  to  confine  himself  to 
those  shapes  alone.  We  must  have  variety 
in  form  and  scope  for  fancy.  It  is  well,  how- 
ever, to  have  our  eyes  open  to  the  consequences 
of    indulging    in    sprawling    and    attenuated 


MAKING    BEDS    AND    BORDERS 


8l 


forms,     which     are    prodigal    of     margin    but 
enclose  comparatively  little  flower  space. 

Of  the  forms  of  bed  in  general  use,  and 
admissible  on  practical  and  artistic  grounds, 
I  give  some  examples,  omitting  the  circle, 
square,  and  rectangle  as  sufficiently  indicated 
by  their  names. 


OC3 


Fig.  14 — Shapes  of  beds 

It  is  obvious  that  some  of  these  are  suitable 
only  as  components  of  a  group,  by  reason  of 
their  unsymmetrical  character. 

Beds  are  placed  either  singly  or  in  groups. 
In  the  former  case  it  is  well  to  select  a  shape 
which  bears  some  relation  to  the  outlines  of 


82  GARDEN    PLANNING 

the  grass  on  which  it  is  placed,  if  it  comes  suf- 
ficiently near  those  outlines  for  it  to  matter. 
A  square  bed  set  in  an  oval  grass  plot  would 
not  harmonize  so  well  with  its  outline  as  a 
circular  or  oval  bed,  as  I  have  already  pointed 
out  in  connection  with  groups  of  beds.  So 
in  a  square  or  rectangular  plot  of  limited  dimen- 
sions a  square  or  rectangular  bed  would  best 
please  the  eye. 

In  designing  a  group  of  beds  it  is  not  sufficient 
to  throw  together  several  components  bearing 
no  relation  to  each  other  in  shape.  On  the 
contrary,  there  should  be  a  rigid  harmony 
in  shape  between  the  components.  This  is 
best  secured  by  giving  attention  to  the  strips 
of  sward  or  gravel  which  separate  them,  and 
a  good  rule  is  to  make  these  strips  of 
equal  width  throughout  their  length,  so  that 
the  sides  of  adjacent  beds  are  parallel  with 
each  other. 

This  is  made  clear  in  the  next  illustration. 
Practical  considerations  in  connection  with 
mowing  make  it  desirable  that  this  strip  of  sward 
should  not  be  too  narrow,  say  not  less  than 
eighteen  inches.  In  groups  of  beds  in  gravel, 
the  separating  strips    become  possible  paths, 


MAKING    BEDS    AND    BORDERS 


83 


and  their  minimum  width  may  therefore  be 
fixed  at  two  feet. 

Examples  of  groups  of  flower  beds  will  be 
found  in  plenty  in  the  garden  plans  in  a 
later  chapter. 

As  regards  the  size  of  a  bed,  or  of  the  corn- 


Fig.  15. —  Relation  between  beds  in  a  group 


ponents  of  a  group,  no  precise  limits  can  be 
laid  down.  A  bed  may  consist  of  a  square 
measuring  two  feet  each  way,  if  intended  to 
accommodate  a  pillar  rose.  On  the  other  hand, 
very  large  beds  are  sometimes  introduced,  when 
they  are  in  scale  with  their  surroundings  and 


84  GARDEN    PLANNING 

a  bold  effect  is  aimed  at.  In  most  cases,  how- 
ever, nothing  is  gained  by  making  a  bed  of 
greater  area  than  is  represented  by  a  circle 
of  twelve  feet  diameter. 

In  groups  of  beds  it  is  well  to  have  a  central 
component  which  dominates  the  group.  But 
too  great  disparity  in  size  between  it  and  those 
about  it  is  not  desirable. 

When  a  series  of  groups  is  to  be  made,  as, 
for  instance,  along  the  grass  bordering  a  drive, 
the  same  design  should  not  be  repeated  in- 
definitely. It  is  better  to  repeat  it,  if  at  all,  at 
considerable  intervals,  employing  other  designs 
in  between.  The  same  applies  to  a  series  of 
single  beds,  though  monotony  is  not  so  notice- 
able in  that  case,  particularly  if  the  form 
employed  is  a  simple  one.  For  instance,  a 
series  of  equal  and  similar  rectangular  beds 
bordering  a  long  straight  stretch  of  grass  may 
be  quite  inoffensive,  but  even  in  that  case  it 
would  be  better  to  break  the  line  at  equal  dis- 
tances by  making  a  wider  interval  between 
adjacent  beds  at  every  third  or  fourth  bed, 
thus  introducing  a  simple  kind  of  grouping, 
which  always  looks  better  than  a  regular  series 
like  the  cars  of  a  freight  train. 


MAKING    BEDS    AND    BORDERS  85 

The  gardener  has  always  to  consider  the 
trouble  Involved  in  maintaining  the  shapes 
of  his  beds,  and  this  should  make  him  cautious 
about  indulging  in  figures  the  geometry  of 
which  is  not  very  obvious.  With  rectangular 
beds  the  stretched  cord  is  always  a  sure  guide 
for  the  turf  trimmer,  and  with  circular  beds, 
or  those  bounded  by  straight  lines  and  parts 
of  a  circle,  the  radius  cord  attached  to  a  stake 
at  the  centre  of  curvature  is  a  simple  expedient 
for  controlling  the  shape.  It  is  otherwise 
with  "fancy"  shapes,  when  the  eye  alone  can 
be  called  upon  to  keep  things  right. 

Opinions  differ  on  the  question  of  camber 
in  the  surface  of  the  soil,  if  we  may  judge  by 
examples,  some  preferring  to  keep  the  surface 
flat,  and  others  to  heap  it  up  until  the  bed  takes 
on  the  semblance  of  a  gigantic  pincushion. 
Safety  lies  in  the  happy  medium.  Some 
camber  is  desirable  as  a  means  for  throwing 
off  the  water  during  heavy  showers,  and  it 
improves  the  appearance  of  the  flowers, 
particularly  when  they  are  all  of  a  height,  as 
in  bedding  practice.  Excessive  camber  tends 
to  drain  off  the  moisture  from  the  crown 
of  the  bed. 


86  GARDEN    PLANNING 

Beds  In  gravel,  if  edged  with  box,  should  be 
kept  nearly  flat  on  the  surface,  otherwise  the 
moisture  which  gravitates  to  their  margins 
would  tend  to  carry  soil  out  upon  the  gravel 
surface. 


CHAPTER  VII 
Construction  of  Walks  and  Drives 

The  first  essential  in  a  garden  path  is  that 
it  should  present  a  firm  surface,  durable  under 
the  ordinary  conditions  of  the  traffic  it  has  to 
bear,  which,  be  it  remembered,  includes  not 
only  foot  traffic,  but  the  passage  of  roller, 
mower,  and  garden  barrow. 

It  must  also  be  well  drained,  so  that  after 
showers  its  surface  does  not  hold  puddles  or 
long  remain  wet. 

There  is  no  detail  in  the  garden  which  con- 
tributes more  materially  to  its  general  good 
appearance  and  to  the  comfort  of  its  users 
than  a  well-made  and  well-kept  path. 

Drives  designed  for  carriage  traffic  may  also 
be  referred  to  in  this  chapter,  as  practically 
the  same  principles  of  construction  apply  to 
them,  though  if  much  used  by  wheeled  vehicles 
and  not  merely  for  show,  the  surface  material 
must  be  such  as  will  not  cut  up  in  daily  use; 
87 


««  GARDEN    PLANNING 

in  fact,  their  making  should  involve  the  ordi- 
nary principles  of  road  construction. 

In  laying  down  the  line  of  a  drive,  if  any 
departure  is  made  from  the  straight,  the  curves 
should  make  wide  sweeps.  Abrupt  turns  in 
carriage  drives  are  apt  to  lead  to  unlooked-for 
surprises  on  dark  nights. 

The  minimum  width  for  a  carriage  drive  may 
be  taken  as  ten  feet. 

There  are  two  points  in  a  drive  which  call 
for  special  attention  on  the  part  of  the  designer, 
viz.,  the  entrance  and  the  terminal.  If  the 
drive  enters  the  plot  at  right  angles,  it  is  well 
to  set  the  gates  back  from  the  road,  so  as  to 
make  space  for  vehicles  to  turn,  and  this  is 
especially  necessary  when  the  drive  leaves  a 
narrow  thoroughfare.  It  is  usually  done  by 
making  the  railings  or  boundary  hedge  curve 
inward  toward  the  gates,  or  curved  wing  walls 
may  be  erected  enclosing  a  space  approximating 
a  semicircle. 

When  the  drive  enters  the  plot  at  an  angle 
it  should  break  away  from  the  thoroughfare 
by  a  curve  which  meets  the  latter  at  a  tangent, 
or  if  from  a  curved  thoroughfare,  the  two  curves 
should  flow  gracefully  into  each  other;  in  other 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  WALKS  AND  DRIVES        89 

words,  they  should  have  a  common  tangent 
line. 

It  is  not  unusual  to  find  the  course  of  a  drive 
so  laid  down  that  its  length  is  unnecessarily 
great,  the  idea  being  that  it  impresses  the  visi- 
tor.    This  is  a  waste  of  material  and  of  space. 


Fig.  16. —  Entrance  to  drive 

On  level  ground  a  straight  drive  leading  to 
the  house  by  the  shortest  route  is  generally 
the  best.  Curved  drives,  however,  are  not 
objectionable  provided  their  lines  run  in  bold 
sweeps,  and  they  may  afford  an  opportunity 
for  screening  the  house  when  privacy  is 
desirable. 

On  sloping  ground  the  course  of  the  drive 


90 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


must  be  determined  with  a  view  to  ensuring 
an  easy  gradient,  and  in  such  case  it  may- 
be necessary  to  use  curves  freely. 


Fig.  17. —  The  carriage-turn 

Where  the  drive  reaches  the  house  entrance 
an  expansion  should  be  made  to  permit  of 
vehicles  turning,  and  it  should  be  wide  enough 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  WALKS  AND  DRIVES        9I 

to  allow  them  to  turn  on  a  sufficiently  large 
radius  to  prevent  damage  to  the  road  surface. 
The  form  of  the  "carriage-turn"  is  immaterial 
if  it  is  large  enough;  but  if  space  is  restricted 
it  is  better  to  adopt  the  circle,  or  some  figure 
approximating  it. 

In  the  case  of  a  semicircular  drive  having 
separate  entrance  and  exit  gates,  the  carriage- 
turn  is  unnecessary,  but  may  be  retained  in 
some  form  as  a  concession  to  the  eye,  which 
naturally  looks  for  a  free  space  opposite  the 
house  door. 

The  coming  of  the  motor  car  has  introduced 
a  new  and  insistent  problem  in  driveway  en- 
trances to  suburban  plots — in  the  open  country 
estate  the  only  extra  modifications  lie  in  the 
necessity  of  greater,  gentler  curves.  The  factors 
to  be  considered  in  the  smaller  place  have  been 
well  presented  in  Country  Life^  October  1922, 
thus:  Width  between  automobile  tires,  direc- 
tion the  runway  takes  relative  to  lines  of  street 
curb,  width  of  parking  space  between  sidewalk 
and  curb,  elevation  of  sidewalk  above  curb,  rela- 
tive slopes  in  walk  and  curb,  elevation  of  sidewalk 
above  curb,  relative  slopes  in  walk  and  curb,  gen- 
eral character  of  ground  as   respects  lines  and 


92  GARDEN    PLANNING 

grades,  and  textural  finish  suited  to  conditions. 

The  average  distance  between  centres  of  tires 
is  four  feet  nine  inches.  Add  to  this  one  foot  six 
inches  to  allow  nine  inches  outside  of  each  tire, 
and  the  result,  six  feet  three  inches,  is  a  service- 
able width  for  the  automobile  runway.  Six  feet 
six  inches  is  quite  commonly  used  and  is  a  good 
width  under  nearly  all  circumstances,  unless 
curbs  be  built  on  the  outside,  when  the  overall 
width  will  be  increased  by  about  eight  inches. 
It  is  assumed  that  each  runway  is  eighteen 
inches  wide  with  a  grass  plot  between.  They 
are  sometimes  built  twelve  inches  and  twenty- 
four  inches,  the  former  being  too  narrow  and  the 
latter  unnecessarily  wide. 

The  ramp  should  in  no  case  have  a  width  less 
that  the  overall  width  of  the  runway.  It  is 
better,  when  ramp  and  runways  do  not  join  but 
are  separated  by  a  sidewalk,  to  have  the  narrow 
part  or  throat  of  the  ramp  equal  to  or  bur  slight- 
ly wider  than  the  width  of  the  runways.  This 
will  give  the  effect  of  continuity  of  the  side  lines. 
The  width  of  the  opening  along  the  street  curb 
will  vary  according  to  local  conditions.  From 
observations  and  measurements  to  determine 
what  a  driver  will  do  when  turning  off  the  street 


CONSTRUCTION   OF    WALKS    AND    DRIVES      93 

on  to  the  ramp  it  is  figured  that  eight  feet  six 
inches  should  be  the  minimum  clearance  allow- 
able and  that  ten  to  twelve  feet  is  preferable. 
In  laying  out  a  ramp  it  is  well  to  be  liberal  so 
far  as  service  is  concerned  at  the  same  time 
heeding  the  dictates  of  esthetics  which  demand 
the  least  possible  display  of  cement. 

For  ordinary  cases  and  pleasing  to  the  eye, 
the  opening  width  of  twelve  feet  is  sufficient  for 
an  approach  from  either  direction,  and  the 
throat  opening,  made  equal  to  the  overall  width 
of  the  runway,  gives  the  correct  appearance 
when  viewed  from  the  front.  The  side  Hnes  of 
the  ramp  come  into  the  Hne  of  the  walk  at  a 
right  angle.  For  the  most  pleasing  results  this 
is  essential  in  normal  cases.  The  ramp  curbs 
should  be  made  to  articulate  on  easy  curves  with 
the  street  curb.  A  bad  joint  or  a  sharp  angle 
where  the  two  come  together  is  certain  to  spoil 
the  appearance  of  the  work.  The  track  of  the 
car  as  it  approaches  and  enters  the  grounds  is 
on  a  curve,  and  it  is  only  rational  to  curve  the 
side  lines  of  the  ramp. 

If  the  runways  are  eighteen  inches  wide,  any 
driver  can  keep  on  them  while  backing  out,  and 
curbs  are  not  needed  as  a  guide. 


94  GARDEN    PLANNING 

Gravel  Paths  —  Much  depends  upon  the 
quality  of  the  gravel.  There  are  gravels  which 
are  little  better  than  shingle,  being  almost  or 
entirely  devoid  of  binding  material.  Gravels 
of  this  kind  will  never  make  a  firm  path,  and 
a  path  of  loose  pebbles  is  objectionable  on 
account  of  the  liability  of  the  smaller  stones 
to  be  carried  on  to  the  grass. 

After  staking  out  the  course  of  the  path,  the 
soil  must  be  excavated  to  a  depth  of  twelve 
inches,  or  until  a  firm  bottom  is  reached,  and 
taken  bodily  away.  The  trench  must  then  be 
filled  in  with  rubble,  brick  rubbish,  or  other 
light  material,  to  provide  drainage  and  to  en- 
sure a  firm  foundation. 

Over  this  may  be  put  a  layer  of  shingle  or 
coarse  gravel  screenings,  say  three  inches  thick, 
which  should  be  formed  with  the  rake  to  a 
curved  surface  or  camber  in  cross-section.  The 
gravel  may  then  be  evenly  distributed  over 
the  surface  to  a  depth  of  from  two  to  three 
inches,  care  being  taken  to  keep  the  line  of  its 
crown  straight  in  the  direction  of  the  path's 
length,  but  preserving  the  camber  of  the  layer 
beneath.  After  liberal  watering  the  roller 
should  be  put  to  work.     The  free  use  of  water  at 


CONSTRUCTION    OF   WALKS   AND   DRIVES      95 

this  Stage  is  important  to  success,  as  it  ensures 
the  subsequent  consolidation  of  the  gravel 
and  prevents  its  adhering  to  the  roller.  The 
correct  amount  of  water  may  be  determined 
by  noting  the  action  of  the  roller,  which  should 
carry  before  it  a  wave  of  creamy  liquid,  a  mix- 


Fig.  i8.— Path  foundation 

ture  of  water  with  the  binding  constituent  of 
the  gravel.  The  roller  should  be  a  moderately 
heavy  one.  After  the  path  has  been  brought 
to  a  fair  surface  it  should  be  left  unused  for 
at  least  twenty-four  hours,  and  if  no  rain  falls 
during  that  interval  so  much  the  better. 

Cinder  Paths  —  These  are  dismal  things  in 
the  flower  garden,  though  they  have  a  sphere 
of  usefulness  in  the  vegetable  plot.  They  also 
may  be  made  as  directed  for  gravel  paths. 

Tar  Paths  —  When  well  made  these  are  very 
durable,  but  their  colour  is  against  them, 
and  in  hot  weather  they  are  apt  to  become  soft 
on  the  surface;  the  same  apphes  to  asphalt. 
I    have,    however,    seen    tar    paths    the    stony 


96  GARDEN   PLANNING 

constituent  of  which  was  a  gray  material, 
probably  limestone,  not  altogether  unsightly 
after  the  surface  layer  of  tar  had  disappeared. 

Tar  and  other  paths  made  of  impervious 
material  should  not  be  flanked  by  impervious 
tiles,  or  water  will  collect  at  their  sides. 

Cement  Paths  —  These  are  unsympathetic 
in  colour  and  Hable  to  crack  under  the  influence 
of  frost.  To  guard  against  cracking  a  good 
proportion  of  sand  should  be  used  in  mixture, 
and  the  path  should  be  laid  on  a  concrete  basis 
at  least  six  inches  thick.  Cement  may  be 
coloured  with  iron  oxide  (red  ochre)  to  give  it 
a  warmer  and  more  genial  hue. 

Brick  Paths  —  Next  to  gravel  the  brick  path 
holds  first  place:  indeed,  in  my  opinion,  it  is 
preferable  to  a  gravel  path  in  most  circum- 
stances, its  only  drawback  being  its  want  of 
flexibility,  which  unfits  it  for  use  in  curved 
fines.  Its  advantages  are  the  ease  with  which 
it  may  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  its  durability, 
good  colour,  and  the  opportunity  it  off"ers  for 
artistic  eff"ect.  In  gardening,  the  old  order  of 
things  dies  hard,  and  gardeners  are  shy  of  adopt- 
ing anything  savouring  of  novelty.  Yet  the 
brick  path  is  not  altogether  a  thing  of  to-day. 


CONSTRUCTION    OF   WALKS    AND   DRIVES      97 

It  may  be  met  with  in  many  old  gardens,  its 
cheery  red  surface  worn  into  hollows,  but  ever 
dry  owing  to  the  porous  nature  of  its  material. 
From  this  observation  we  may  take  a  hint, 
and,  if  we  decide  upon  a  brick  path,  be  careful 
to  obtain  bricks  of  a  kind  which  are  not  imper- 
vious to  water.  They  may  readily  be  tested 
by  plunging  one  into  a  pail  of  water  and  noting 
the  speed  with  which  the  surface  water  disap- 
pears after  it  has  been  lifted  out  again.  In 
point  of  cost,  brick  paths  do  not  compare  un- 
favourably with  gravel,  but  much  depends  upon 
the  price  of  each  material  ruling  in  the  district. 

A  rubble  foundation  is  prepared  as  for  a 
gravel  path,  and  dressed  over  with  finer  ma- 
terial, over  which  is  put  a  layer  of  finely 
screened  gravel  or  builder's  sand,  which  must 
be  raked  to  a  level  surface.  The  good  appear- 
ance of  brick  paths  would  be  marred  if  any 
perceptible  camber  were  given  to  the  surface, 
but  on  dead-level  ground  there  may  be  half 
an  inch  difference  of  level  between  the  sides 
and  centre  of  a  three-foot  path. 

The  bricks  should  be  laid  flat  upon  the  sand 
without  mortar  or  cement,  pressed  down  firmly 
and  into  close  contact,  and  kept  in  true  line 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


98 

by  the  use  of  a  stretched  cord.  It  is  best  to 
commence  by  laying  the  marginal  bricks  on 
one  side  from  end  to  end,  and  to  select  the 
side  which  comes  against 
turf,  as  that  helps  to  keep 
the  bricks  in  place. 

All  bricks  are  more  or 
less  curved  in  the  burning. 
The  concave  side  is  easily 
detected  by  glancing  along 
the  edge,  and  should  be 
laid  downward,  otherwise 
the  bricks  will  acquire  a 
tendency  to  rock  and  be- 
come loose. 

Having  laid  the  path 
margin  on  one  side,  and 
made  sure  thatitis  straight 
and  true  from  end  to  end, 
the  centre  may  be  built  up 
to  it,  but  before  proceed- 
ing with  this  some  idea 
must  be  formed  of  how 
the  bricks  are  to  be  disposed.  They  may  be 
laid  in  parallel  lines,  breaking  joints,  which  is 
the  simplest  plan,  and  produces  a  neat  if  not 


=1— L-L-LTi-i:: 


Fig.  19. —  Design  lor 
brick  path 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  WALKS  AND  DRIVES        99 

ambitious  effect,  or  a  pattern  may  be  worked 
out  on  some  such  lines  as  indicated  in  the 
illustration.  In  this  it  will  be  seen  that  whole 
bricks  are  used  throughout.  It  is  not  desir- 
able to  adopt  a  pattern  which  involves 
much  cutting  of  bricks,  because  of  the 
difficulty  of  making  neat  joints  with  the  cut 
ends. 

If  the  centre  part  is  well  laid  the  other 
marginal  line  of  bricks  will  lie  neatly  along  its 
free  side  and  complete  the  path. 

In  bedding  the  bricks  upon  their  seating 
the  sand  may  be  added  to  or  removed,  as  oc- 
casion requires,  to  bring  the  upper  surface  of 
the  bricks  to  the  general  level.  The  principal 
precaution  needed  is  to  bed  each  brick  firmly, 
so  that  no  subsequent  subsidence  of  individual 
bricks  can  occur. 

If  preferred,  the  marginal  bricks  may 
be  laid  on  edge,  to  stand,  say,  about  two 
inches  above  the  level  of  the  centre,  but 
that  practice  is  not  conducive  to  efficient 
drainage. 

I  have  pointed  out  that  the  brick  path  can 
dispense  with  edging  tiles,  but  to  make  it  serve 
the   purpose   of   the   tile   edging   it   must   be 


100  GARDEN    PLANNING 

brought  into  proper  relation  with  the  ground 
on  either  side. 

That  is  best  done  by  adopting  the  rule  of 
making  the  level  of  the  path  at  its  edges  the 
same  as  that  of  the  turf  (when  it  skirts  a  grass 
plot),  and  an  inch  and  a  half  higher  than  the 
edge  of  the  border  when  it  comes  against  the 
soil.     This  is  shown  in  the  sectional  illustration. 

The  weight  of 

^^^^HP^**  the  bricks   keeps 

them  in  place,  but 

Fig.  20.- Section  of  brick  path  ^^  is  well  to  Com- 
pact the  soil  of 
the  border  where  it  comes  against  the  path  by 
ramming,  to  ensure  that  the  bricks  on  that  side 
do  not  get  out  of  place.  In  the  case  of  very 
light  soils  I  have  found  it  desirable  to  push  a 
few  slates  down  into  the  soil  at  the  outer  mar- 
gin of  the  path,  burying  them  as  far  as  the  soil 
level.  If  this  is  done  at  every  fourth  brick, 
and  at  a  joint,  the  whole  is  made  fairly  secure. 
Grouting  with  cement  would  perhaps  be  a  safer 
expedient,  but  I  have  not  found  it  necessary. 

On  sloping  ground,  where  the  slope  crosses 
the  path,  the  latter  may  continue  the  natural 
slope  of  the  ground,  and  it  should  be  made 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  WALKS  AND  DRIVES     lOI 

quite  flat*  on  the  surface,  so  that  water  may 
drain  off  at  the  lower  margin. 

When  the  bricks  have  been  laid  the  joints 
may  be  filled  up  with  loose  sand,  watered  to 
carry  it  down,  and  again  filled  up  to  a  level 
with  the  surface. 

Whatever  ideas  the  gardener  may  have  about 
pattern-making,  he  should  not  allow  his  fancy 
to  run  away  with  him.  Over-elaboration  of 
pattern  in  so  utilitarian  a  feature  as  a  garden 
path  would  be  too  assertive.  The  simpler 
the  design  the  better,  though  undue  repetition 
is   not   desirable. 

Bearing  in  mind  the  fact  that  bricks  meas- 
ure four  inches  in  width,  it  is  evident  that 
the  path  width  must  be  a  multiple  of  that 
dimension,  a  fact  to  be  remembered  when  the 
width  of  the  path  is  being  settled. 

Composite  Paths  —  In  this  category  I  Include 

all  paths  In  which  bricks  or  tiles  are  used  in 

combination    with    concrete,    stone    mosaics, 

cobble    stones,    and    other    like    materials.     I 

shall  first  refer  to  those  In  which  bricks  are 

*To  avoid  misapprehension  I  may  say  that  I  use  the 
words  "flat"  and  "level"  in  their  strictly  separate 
senses.  An  inclined  path  may  be  flat  but  is  not  level.  A 
level  path  is  flat  of  necessity. 


I02 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


used  for  the  framework.  The  preparation 
of  the  foundation  is  the  same  as  for  an  all- 
brick  path,  except  that  sand  will  only  be  needed 
where  the  bricks  come. 
The  general  idea  of 
a  path  of  this  charac- 
ter may  be  gathered 
from  the  illustration. 
It  will  be  seen  that 
the  brickwork  forms 
the  basis  of  a  pattern, 
which  is  completed  by 
filling  the  spaces  be- 
tween its  members 
with  another  mate- 
rial. I  have  found 
road  macadam  an  ex- 
cellent one,  and  I  use 
it  as  follows:  having 
made  a  mortar  of 
builder's  sand  and 
Portland  cement,  half 
and  half,  I  fill  in  the 
spaces  one  at  a  time, 
a  half-  of  fine  gravel, 
and    then    to    the   path    level   with   mortar- 


Fig.  21. —  Design  for  a 

composite  path 

first  with  an  inch  and 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  WALKS  AND  DRIVES         IO3 

Whilst  the  latter  is  soft  I  insert  the  macadam 
cubes,  fitting  them  closely  into  contact  and 
pressing  them  down,  but  leaving  their  upper 
sides  slightly  higher  than  the  bricks.  When 
the  space  is  filled  I  go  over  it  with  a  board  and 
a  mallet,  beating  down  the  cubes  until  they 
are  all  level  with  the  bricks.  The  exuding 
mortar  is  transferred  to  the  next  space,  and 
that  one  similarly  treated  until  the  whole 
path  is  finished.  After  allowing  an  hour 
for  the  mortar  to  partly  set,  the  path  surface 
may  be  washed  over  with  a  stiff  brush  and 
clean  water,  to  remove  the  mortar  which  clings 
to  the  top  of  the  stone  cubes.  In  twelve  hours 
the  path  will  be  set  and  as  firm  as  a  rock, 
the  mortar  used  for  the  mosaic  work 
taking  hold  of  the  bricks  and  tying  the  whole 
together. 

A  plan  less  satisfactory  on  the  score  of 
appearance  is  to  fill  in  the  spaces  with  cement 
concrete,  finishing  with  a  rendering  of  cement. 

Cobble  stones  make  an  excellent  filling,  and 
give  quite  an  old-world  appearance  to  a  path. 
They  should  be  laid  on  end  in  dry  sand,  levelled 
by  the  use  of  the  board  and  mallet,  and  then 
grouted  with   liquid   cement  poured  amongst 


I04  GARDEN    PLANNING 

them  from  a  pail  until  it  rises  above  the  middle 
of  the  pebbles. 

Another  mode  of  filling  is  to  use  coarse 
rubble  blocks,  setting  them  in  mortar  with  the 
aid  of  a  builder's  trowel. 

Similar  paths  may  be  made  by  substituting 
tiles  for  bricks.  The  expense  is  greater  and 
more  skill  is  required  in  the  setting,  which 
must  be  done  on  a  bed  of  mortar.  I  do  not 
think  that  anything  is  to  be  said  in  favour  of 
tiles  instead  of  bricks.  They  are  less  porous, 
and  therefore  do  not  dry  so  quickly.  They 
are  also  more  liable  to  be  dislodged  and  broken. 

Tile  Paths — All-tile  paths  used  to  be  in  favour 
in  some  suburban  fore-courts,  and  frequently 
offended  by  reason  of  the  violent  contrasts 
in  the  colour  of  the  tiles.  A  path  of  hard  red 
tiles  in  large  squares,  or  of  oven  tiles,  is  not 
displeasing,  but  is  not  economical  where  paths 
are  long. 

Another  disadvantage  of  the  tile  path  is 
that  the  edging  tile  cannot  be  dispensed  with. 

Stone  Paths  —  Flagstones  are  occasionally 
met  with  in  old  gardens.  I  do  not  favour 
them  for  many  reasons.  One  is  that  one 
cannot  help  associating  them  with  the  flagged 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  WALKS  AND  DRIVES       IO5 

pavements  of  town;  another  that  their  colour 
is  too  cold  to  the  critical  eye;  yet  another 
that  they  wear  unequally  and  soon  become 
"dished,"  giving  rise  to  the  inevitable  puddle. 

I  have  seen  some  good  paths  made  of  stone 
waste,  and  if  the  gardener  has  the  opportunity 
of  obtaining  this  material  cheaply,  and  it  is 
of  the  right  kind  —  i.  e.,  not  too  friable  —  it 
will  make  an  interesting  path. 

A  good  plan  is  to  use  it  in  a  patchwork  pattern 
of  the  kind  our  lady  friends  call  "crazy,"  for 
which  purpose  all  sharp  angles  should  be 
removed  from  the  pieces.  I  give  an  illustra- 
tion that  will  carry  a  suggestion  for  a  stone- 
waste  path  based  upon  Japanese  practice. 
If  the  separate  stones  are  well  bedded,  with 
precautions  to  prevent  rocking,  no  cementing 
medium  is  needed.  In  fact,  the  joints  may  be 
designedly  allowed  to  gape  to  permit  the  grass 
to  spring  out  of  them,  which  will  give  an  uncon- 
ventional but  not  unpleasing  effect  to  a  path 
crossing  a  lawn. 

Red  sandstone  is  an  excellent  material, 
and  white  stone  is  admissible,  as  it  soon  loses 
its  glare,  and  tones  down  under  the  influence 
of  weather  and  vegetable  growth. 


I06  GARDEN    PLANNING 


FiK.  22. —  Design  for  stone  path        Fig.  23. —  Design  for  stone  path 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  WALKS  AND  DRIVES      IO7 

The  gardener  with  command  of  this  class 
of  material  might  use  it  in  the  form  of  stepping- 
stones,  as  the  Japanese  do,  but  the  effect  so 
obtained  must  not  be  overdone.  Its  legitimate 
place  is  on  the  grass. 

Note  —  In  the  use  of  a  non-binding  material 
like  blue  stone  it  is  well  to  screen  out  all 
fine  stuff  which  otherwise  would  adhere  to 
the  boots  in  wet  weather  and  be  carried  into 
the  house.  Shells  form  an  almost  hopeless 
material  for  the  garden.  Their  innate  friability 
precludes  the  separation  of  large  from  small, 
and  renders  them  the  most  persistent  material 
I  know  of  for  finding  Its  way  Indoors. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
Grass  as  a  Foundation 

There  is  something  delightfully  soothing 
in  a  well-kept  stretch  of  verdant  turf.  It  is 
nature's  embodiment  of  the  sense  of  repose, 
the  mantle  with  which  she  covers  the  crudities 
of  man's  handiwork,  the  best  background  for 
our  flowers,  and,  in  most  cases,  the  criterion 
by  which  we  may  judge  the  capabilities  of  the 
gardener.  If  turf  we  must  have,  let  us  have  it 
green  and  fresh  and  innocent  of  spot  or  blem- 
ish. Secondary  as  it  is  to  the  flowers,  yet  it 
must  receive  the  best  attention  we  can  give  it. 
The  picture  loses  much  of  its  charm  if  the  frame 
is  unworthy  of  it. 

We  may  obtain  our  grass  in  any  of  three 
ways:  we  may  import  turfs,  sow  seed,  or  be 
content  with  the  old  pasture  grass  as  we  find 
it.  Just  which  we  decide  upon  will  be  governed 
by  circumstances. 

Old  pasture  is  not  always  a  success,  particularly 
108 


GRASS    AS    A    FOUNDATION  IO9 

Upon  heavy  land.  It  may  be  growing  upon 
too  thin  a  soil,  and  we  should  find  it  water- 
logged in  winter  and  scorched  in  summer. 
Moreover,  it  may  be  full  of  undesirable  weeds, 
and  infested  with  insects  ready  to  migrate  to 
our  beds  and  borders.  On  the  other  hand, 
we  may  be  lucky  in  lighting  upon  some  rich 
meadowland  in  which  the  conditions  are  favour- 
able to  the  growth  of  good  turf,  and  where 
thistles  and  other  noxious  weeds  are  conspicu- 
ous by  their  absence.  In  such  case  we  may 
"leave  well  alone,"  and  rejoice  that  we  are 
saved  the  trouble  and  expense  of  further  opera- 
tions. Should  we  be  driven  back  upon  one 
of  the  other  two  expedients,  we  must  make  our 
choice  according  to  the  local  conditions. 
Which  is  the  more  economical  in  cost,  turf 
or  seed?  This  problem  we  may  work  out  for 
ourselves  when  we  know  the  cost  of  turf  In 
our  district.  We  may  be  able  to  get  it  for  the 
labour  cost  of  cutting  it,  and,  if  It  Is  near  at 
hand,  the  total  cost  may  be  small.  But  we 
may  have  to  pay  for  our  turfs  at  current  rates^ 
which  will  vary  according  to  the  locality  and 
the  proximity  to  an  available  source  of  supply. 
About  thirty-six  hundred  and  thirty  turfs  would 


no  GARDEN    PLANNING 

be  required  to  cover  a  quarter  of  an  acre,  and 
here  we  are  faced  with  a  large  outlay  for  material 
alone. 

The  same  piece  of  ground  could  be  sown  with 
one  to  one  and  one  half  bushels  of  grass  seed  cost- 
ing about  $5  per  bushel,  which  is  very  slight 
outlay  for  material.  Then  the  labour  of  turf 
laying  would  greatly  exceed  the  labour  of  sowing. 

The  principal  advantage  of  using  turfs  is 
that  we  obtain  a  close,  matured  grass  surface 
more  quickly  than  we  can  do  by  sowing.  On 
the  other  hand,  there  is  always  the  risk  that 
our  turf  may  contain  an  undue  proportion  of 
weeds,  though  on  this  head  a  careful  examina- 
tion of  it  in  bulk  should  enable  us  to  form  an 
opinion. 

Though  the  spring  is  considered  the  best 
time  for  turfing,  it  may  be  done  at  any  time  if 
sufficient  and  proper  precautions  are  taken. 
Sowing  can  only  be  done  with  the  certainty 
of  a  good  result  in  the  spring  and  autumn. 
This  consideration  may  carry  weight  with 
gardeners  who  are  anxious  to  secure  an  early 
appearance  of  completeness  in  a  new  garden. 

Whether  turfing  or  sowing  be  practised, 
it  is  equally  necessary  to  prepare  properly  the 


GRASS    AS    A    FOUNDATION  III 

ground.  If  levelling  has  to  be  undertaken  in 
the  interests  of  tennis  and  croquet,  that  is  the 
first  operation,  and  with  it  should  be  com- 
bined draining,  if  the  nature  of  the  ground 
demands  it. 

In  the  levelling  process  the  top-spit  contain- 
ing the  most  valuable  part  of  the  soil  must 
be  first  laid  aside,  to  be  subsequently  distrib- 
uted over  the  levelled  surface.  This  done, 
and  the  levelling  completed,  the  undisturbed 
subsoil  at  that  part  of  the  ground  which  has 
been  lowered  must  be  forked  over  to  a  depth 
of  eight  inches.  The  whole  surface  may  then 
be  treated  with  decayed  farmyard  manure 
well  forked  in,  and  the  top-spit  redistributed 
upon  it  to  form  a  layer  eight  inches  thick. 

If  the  original  layer  of  soil  is  Insufficient, 
now  is  the  time  to  supplement  it  by  an 
additional  supply  imported  from  outside,  or 
obtained  as  a  by-product  from  some  other 
part  of  the  garden.  Planks  should  be  used 
where  the  barrow  is  in  operation;  otherwise 
ruts  will  be  caused  that  are  not  easy  to 
obliterate. 

Screening  may  be  practised  if  the  surface 
layer   is    stony.     It    is  essential  when  sowing 


112  GARDEN    PLANNING 

grass  seed,  but  of  less  moment  where  turfs 
are  used. 

The  operation  of  laying  the  turfs  is  a  simple 
one  once  the  ground  is  brought  to  a  good  sur- 
face, but  it  should  not  be  done  immediately 
after  the  preparation  of  the  ground.  Time 
should  be  allowed  for  subsidence,  particularly 
if  any  part  of  the  ground  has  been  banked 
up  above  the  natural  surface.  If  rain  super- 
venes so  much  the  better,  as  it  will  hasten 
the  subsidence,  disclose  inequalities,  and  ren- 
der the  soil  in  a  better  condition  to  weld  with 
the  new  turf. 

The  turfs  should  be  laid  in  close  contact 
over  the  whole  surface,  gaps  at  the  joints  being 
filled  up  with  fine  soil  as  the  work  proceeds. 
Inequalities  in  the  ground  may  be  made  good 
as  they  come  under  the  workman's  observation, 
with  the  same  material.  After  all  is  laid,  the 
surface  must  be  gone  over  with  the  beater, 
and  all  upstanding  places  treated  with  It 
until  they  accord  with  the  general  level.  If 
no  rain  immediately  follows,  the  turfs  may  be 
submitted  to  a  good  watering,  after  which  the 
beater  should  be  used  again,  and  any  hollows 
and  gaping  joints  should  be  filled  up  with  soil. 


GRASS    AS    A    FOUNDATION  II3 

After  a  day  or  two's  rest,  the  roller  should  be 
brought  Into  operation  to  further  compact 
the  surface  and  reduce  Inequalities.  After 
that,  the  usual  operations  of  mowing  and 
rolling  may  be  performed  as  occa.«ion  calls 
for  them.  It  is  well  to  look  for  early  indications 
of  weeds  on  newly  turfed  ground,  and  to 
promptly  eradicate  all  that  appear. 

Before  sowing  is  attempted  the  ground  must 
be  well  compacted  by  treading  or  rolling  until 
it  will  no  longer  take  footprints.  It  should 
be  then  lightly  raked  over  to  provide  lodgment 
for  the  seed.  The  operation  of  sowing  is  best 
conducted  on  a  calm  day,  and  the  best  time 
of  year  for  the  purpose  Is  from  the  middle  of 
March  till  the  end  of  April.  Autumn  sowing 
should  not  be  later  than  the  middle  of  Septem- 
ber. Some  authorities  are  in  favour  of  autumn 
sowing,  for  the  reason  that  the  soil  is  warm  and 
the  dews  heavy. 

The  quantity  of  seed  should  not  be  less  than 
one  quart  of  recleaned  seed  to  three  hundred 
square  feet.  It  Is  better  to  err  on  the  side  of 
too  much  than  of  too  little.  A  bushel  of 
lawn  grass  seed  as  usually  understood  in  the 
trade    weighs    twenty    pounds.     Obtain    the 


114  GARDEN    PLANNING 

seed  from  a  reliable  firm  and  follow  closely 
their  printed  instructions.  Old  seed  purchased 
from  local  sources,  even  if  bearing  a  well- 
known  name,  may  be  disappointing,  and  grass 
seed  sold  in  bulk  at  small  country  stores  may 
contain  an  undesirable  percentage  of  other 
seeds  or  chaff. 

Sow  broadcast,  taking  care  to  leave  no  bare 
places;  cover  at  once  with  a  sprinkling  of  fine 
dry  soil  and  roll.  If  the  surface  soil  is  damp 
it  will  pick  UD  on  the  roller,  and  bring  the  seeds 
with  it. 

Birds  must  be  kept  away  by  stretching  black 
cotton  or  garden  netting  over  the  ground,  or 
by  covering  it  well  with  pea  brush  or  other 
similar  bushy  material  which  may  be  at  hand. 

The  grass  plants  should  make  their  appear- 
ance within  twenty-one  days.  If  rain  has 
followed  the  sowing  it  may  be  earlier. 

When  they  have  obtained  a  height  of  from 
three  to  three  and  one  half  inches  the  ground 
may  be  rolled,  and  the  next  day  the  mower 
should  be  passed  over  it,  taking  the  precaution 
to  set  the  knife  so  that  It  does  not  cut  close  to 
the  ground.  It  must  be  in  the  best  condition 
for  cutting,  or  it  will  drag  up  the  young  grass 


GRASS    AS    A    FOUNDATION  II5 

plants  instead  of  taking  off  their  tops.  After 
this,  at  intervals,  the  usual  routine  of  roiling 
and  mowing  may  be  followed,  not  omitting 
watering  if  the  weather  proves  dry. 

Should  plantains  —  the  weeds  which  come 
most  often  to  mock  the  lawn  maker  —  appear, 
they  may  be  effectually  dealt  with  by  placing 
a  pinch  of  dry  table  salt  on  the  crown  of  each 
plant.     This  kills  them  in  a  day  or  two. 

Sown  grass  is  materially  assisted  if  treated 
early  with  an  approved  fertilizer,  of  which  the 
seedsman  may  be  trusted  to  recommend  one 
suitable. 

If  moss  makes  its  appearance,  it  implies 
that  the  soil  is  out  of  condition,  either  owing 
to  the  need  for  drainage,  or  to  the  absence  of 
food  for  the  grass  plants.  In  most  cases  the 
application  of  a  fertilizer,  by  stimulating  the 
vigour  of  the  grass  plants,  will  cause  the  moss 
to  disappear.  Moss  in  itself  is  in  no  sense 
harmful,  but  is  always  an  indication  of  a  poor 
soil. 

Tennis  and  Croquet  Lawns  —  These,  of  course, 
should  not  only  be  dead  level,  but  should 
have  faultlessly  flat  surfaces,  and  I  may  here 
give  a  few  directions  for  levelling. 


Il6  GARDEN    PLANNING 

If  possible,  a  position  should  be  selected 
where  the  ground  is  naturally  approximately- 
level.     When  this  is  not  feasible,  it  becomes 


.1  "^^  I  »iw»nini-^*»w& 


Fig.  24. —  Level  and  straight-edge 

necessary  to  transfer  soil  from  the  higher  to 
the  lower  parts  of  the  ground.  The  operator 
should  provide  himself  with  a  long  straight- 
edge (say,  seven  feet  long)  and  a  spirit-level, 
as  well  as  a  supply  of  stout  wooden  pegs. 
He  must  first  get  the  foundation  approximately 
level,  using  the  straight-edge  on  the  surface, 
or  sighting  from  tall  pegs  driven  into  the  ground 
carrying  cross-pieces  fixed  horizontally  by 
means  of  the  level.  He  should  then  drive  in 
pegs  over  the  whole  surface  six  feet  apart, 
and  standing  so  much  above  the  foundation 
as  will  allow  for  the  amount  of  surface  soil  to 
be  subsequently  distributed  over  it.  Taking 
a  central  peg  as  a  datum,  he  should  work  out- 
ward, adjusting  each  peg  in  turn  by  means 


►  4^ 


36ft. 

_L_ 


GRASS    AS    A    FOUNDATION  II7 

of  the  straight-edge  and  level  until  the  tops 
of  all  are  at  the  same  level.  It  only  then  re- 
mains to  fill  in  the  soil  to  the  tops  of  the  pegs, 
or  slightly  over,  to 
allow  for  subsidence 
and  compacting  by 
rolling.  The  pegs 
may  be  removed  at 
any  time  afterward. 
The  tennis  court 
has  a  net  size  of 
seventy  -  eight  feet  - 
by  thirty-six  feet, 
or  nine  feet  less  in 
width  for  the  single 
game. 

Additional  width 
must  be  allowed  for 
the  poles  and  for 
the  players,  there- 
fore a  total  clear 
space    of 


Tennis  court 


Fig.  25. 

one  hundred  feet  by  fifty  feet  is 
not  too  great  an  allowance,  and  may  be  taken 
as  the  minimum  compatible  with  the  comfort 
and  convenience  of  the  players. 

The    full-sized    croquet    ground,    according 


Ii8 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


to  the  revised  rules  of  the  Croquet  Association, 
should  measure  thirty-five  yards  by  twenty- 
eight  yards,  or  in  feet  one  hundred  and  five 


13- 

f [^ 

p 

— — 

• 

^ 

*— 

- 

• 

- 

^ 

.             t^ 

-.   Y 1 

Fig.  26. —  Croquet  court 

by  eighty-four,  which  space  must  be  all  clear 
turf. 

In  considering  the  position  of  a  tennis  or 


GRASS    AS    A    FOUNDATION  II9 

croquet  lawn  the  designer  has  the  choice  of 
two  courses.  He  may  allot  it  a  space  to 
itself,  enclosing  it  by  a  hedge  or  screen  of  trees 
or  shrubs,  and  thus  put  it  out  of  sight  as  some- 
thing not  altogether  in  harmony  with  the 
decorative  scheme  of  the  garden,  or  he  may 
let  it  frankly  proclaim  itself  as  an  obvious 
feature  and  component  part  of  the  garden 
design.  There  is  something  to  be  said  for 
both  plans.  In  a  garden  of  straight  lines  the 
rectangle  of  turf  set  aside  for  tennis  or  croquet 
would  not  be  so  conspicuous  a  feature  as  in  a 
type  of  garden  In  which  a  naturalesque  effect 
was  aimed  at,  and  winding  walks  were  ele- 
ments  in  the  design. 

There  is  no  need  to  make  hard  and  fast 
boundaries  to  the  tennis  or  croquet  lawn.  It 
may  be  constituted  upon  any  convenient  and 
sufficiently  roomy  stretch  of  level  turf  where 
the  game  and  horticulture  are  not  likely  to 
come  into  conflict. 

Tennis  lawns  made  upon  ground  which 
carries  a  marked  slope  are  not  always  sightly 
features,  reminding  one  of  the  idea  one  forms 
of  the  "hanging  gardens"  of  Babylon.  Such 
lawns  may  be  considered  indispensable,   and 


I20  GARDEN    PLANNING 

if  they  have  to  be  made  at  the  expense  of 
much  excavating  and  banking  up,  means  should 
be  found  to  conceal  their  artificial  outlines 
by  means  of  shrubs,  trees,  or  other  suitable 
screening. 

The  Bozvling  Green  —  Revived  interest  in 
bowls  has  induced  some  owners  to  install  a 
private  bowling  green  on  their  ground.  The 
regulation  size  is  forty  yards  square,  but  less 
width  is  admissible  if  space  is  restricted.  It 
is  usual  to  sink  the  green  below  the  general 
surface,  and  it  must  be  truly  level.  The 
sloping  banks  and  the  space  adjacent  to  them 
should  be  turfed,  the  former  as  a  check  to  the 
bowls,  and  the  latter  to  provide  a  vantage 
ground  for  spectators. 

The  Grass  Plot  —  I  have  already  intimated 
the  importance  of  studying  breadth  of  effect 
in  the  garden.  Nothing  tends  to  destroy 
this  character  so  much  as  the  injudicious 
chopping  up  of  the  grass  space. 

The  shape  of  the  grass  plot  is  determined 
in  a  large  measure  by  the  other  elements  of 
the  plan.  Yet  there  are  opportunities  for  the 
gardener  to  go  astray  if  he  does  not  realize  the 
principle  for  which  I  am  contending.     Take, 


GRASS    AS    A    FOUNDATION  121 

for  instance,  a  garden  the  boundaries  of  which 
converge.  The  planner  may  find,  when  he 
has  taken  sufficient  space  for  his  borders  and 
paths,  that  his  grass  runs  out  to  a  mere  wedge. 
In  such  event  he  would  do  well  to  take  off  the 
acute  angle  by  adding  the  space  either  to 
border  or  path.  Again,  in  the  making  of 
borders  and  beds  it  is  surprisingly  easy  to 
produce  awkward  shapes  in  the  grass  'details, 
particularly  when  working  with  curved  lines. 
A  good  rule,  therefore,  is  to  permit  no  acute 
angles,  narrow  isth- 
muses, tapering  verges, 
or  crescent  horns  in 
grass.  (See  Fig.  27.) 
In  the  rectilinear 
treatment  of  small 
gardens  these  difficul- 
ties will  hardly  arise, 
but  they  may  do  so  in 
cases  where  the  garden 
plot   is    a    converging 

one.    When  the  garden    F»g-  27.— Acute  angles  in  grass 

is  of  sufficient  size  to  call  for  treatment  in 
curves,  the  shaping  of  the  grass  demands 
more  careful    consideration,   the  main   object 


122  GARDEN    PLANNING 

being  to  avoid  anything  that  will  detract 
from  the  breadth  of  effect,  of  which  the 
items  just  enumerated  are  those  most  likely  to 
beset  the  inexperienced  designer. 

The  practice  of  loading  the  grass  with  an 
archipelago  of  small  beds,  cutting  it  up  into  a 
fretwork  design,  is  to  be  condemned  for  the 
s^me  reason. 

The  placing  of  beds  on  grass  calls  for  restraint 
and  discretion  on  the  part  of  the  gardener. 
The  artist  "feels"  where  a  bed  or  group  of 
beds  could  be  placed  with  advantage  to  the 
garden  picture,  because  he  has  an  eye  trained 
to  proportion.  Those  who  lack  such  training 
must  first  realize  their  deficiency,  and  then 
seek  for  guidance  by  studying  elementary 
principles,  of  which  that  applying  to  breadth 
of  effect,  already  sufficiently  explained  in  these 
pages,  is  one  of  the  most  important. 

The  accompanying  illustration  (Fig.  28) 
shows  the  correct  way  to  correlate  the  bed 
with  the  grass  when  the  former  has  to  fill  a 
projecting  space. 

It  is  certainly  better  to  err  on  the  side  of 
having  too  few  than  too  many  detached  beds. 

It  will  be  useful  here  to  accept  my  injunction 


GRASS    AS    A    FOUNDATION 


123 


about  the  grass  verge,  under  which  term 
may  be  included  the  strips  which  separate  bed 
from  bed  in  a  group.  These  should  always  have 
parallel  sides  and 
a  minimum  width 
of  eighteen  inches. 
Two  feet  is  better 
if  space   permits. 

When  a  garden 
plot  is  situated 
onslopingground, 
if  the  slope  is 
slight  only,  it  is 
better  to  let  the 
garden  follow  it 
than  to  attempt 
levelling,  provided  that  no  considerable  space 
is  to  be  reserved  for  tennis  or  croquet. 

On  ground  of  irregular  contours  the  irregu- 
larities may  call  for  modification,  or  they 
may  be  entirely  desirable  as  affording  oppor- 
tunity for  variety  in  the  general  treatment  of 
the  garden,  according  to  the  particular  views 
of  the  garden  owner.  Whenever  the  character 
of  the  ground  is  such  as  to  leave  certain  spaces 
in  the  form  of  hollows,  these  hollows  should 


Fig.  28. —  Beds  in  relation  to  grass 


124  GARDEN    PLANNING 

be  filled  in  or  drained;  otherwise  they  will 
become  pools  in  wet  weather.  As  with  lines, 
so  with  surfaces :  the  curves  should  flow  without 
break,  so  that  we  cannot  detect  where  one 
runs  into  the  other. 

Grass  slopes  should  be  used  sparingly,  be- 
cause they  involve  extra  labour  in  the  mowing 
and  are  apt  to  suffer  in  time  of  drought.  When 
necessitated  by  the  nature  of  the  ground,  as 
in  a  hillside  garden,  they  should  not  be  steeper 
than  one  in  two,  or  both  these  disadvantages 
will  be  intensified. 

Another  point  to  be  considered  in  the  making 
of  a  grass  plot  is  its  level  relative  to  the  adja- 
cent paths.  It  is  not  unusual  to  find  paths 
sunk  so  much  below  the  grass  level  that  the 
soil  is  exposed  beneath  the  turf.  This  allows 
soil  to  break  away,  or  be  washed  out  by  the 
rain,  to  the  detriment  of  the  path.  It  also 
involves  additional  labour  in  trimming  the 
grass  edges.  There  is  no  need  to  allow  more 
elevation  to  the  turf  than  is  sufficient  to  ensure 
the  mower  clearing  the  gravel  when  used  on 
the  edge  of  the  grass,  and  if  this  rule  is  followed 
there  is  no  danger  of  gravel  straying  on  to  the 
grass.     From    two    to    three    inches    is    quite 


GRASS    AS    A    FOUNDATION  1 25 

enough.  In  practice,  the  question  is  most 
likely  to  present  itself  in  connection  with  path 
making,  when  the  gravel  surface  would  have 
to  be  regulated  to  ensure  the  above  result. 

When  it  is  a  case  of  grass  in  juxtaposition 
to  soil,  as  in  the  making  of  beds,  the  rule  does 
not  call  for  such  stringent  observation,  but  to 
satisfy  the  eye  the  grass  edge  should  not  stand 
higher  than  three  inches  above  the  soil.  If 
much  less  there  is  the  danger  of  soil  and  stones 
working  on  to  the  grass. 

Grass  Paths  and  Edgings  —  Though  grass 
is  unsuited  for  paths,  there  are  cases  in  which 
it  may  be  used,  as,  for  instance,  when  an 
alternative  path  of  gravel  exists.  I  have 
seen  the  grass  path  installed  with  excellent  effect 
in  the  kitchen  garden,  where  it  gives  quite  a 
distinctive  and  finished  appearance  to  that 
department.  In  the  case  to  which  I  allude 
the  ground  had  quite  recently  been  meadow- 
land,  and  the  vegetable  beds  had  just  been 
cut  in  the  turf,  allowing  main  paths  five  feet 
wide,  with  narrower  connecting  paths  of  half 
that  width.  I  cannot  commend  it  as  econom- 
ical of  space,  but  where  there  is  ample 
room  this  use  of  grass  has  its  advantages  on 


126  GARDEN    PLANNING 

the  score  of  appearance,  and  is  highly  preferable 
to  the  usual  cinder  path,  which  requires  that 
an  edging  be  provided. 

The  grass  path  also  may  have  its  utility  in 
the  flower  garden,  though  it  usually  comes  into 
existence  by  some  adventitious  circumstance 
rather  than  by  design.  A  border  skirting  grass 
may  have  opposed  to  it  a  long  bed,  and  the 
gardener  may  decide  to  connect  the  two  by  a 
pergola.  This  at  once  turns  the  intervening 
grass  strip  into  a  path,  and  a  very  charming 
one,  where  the  walker  may  find  a  tunnel  of 
greenery,  his  feet  on  verdant  turf,  a  canopy 
of  blossom  overhead.  Grass  edgings  are  used 
in  both  flower  and  kitchen  gardens,  and  I 
have  already  referred  to  them  by  the  term 
"verge."  Each  gardener  will  decide  for  him- 
self whether  the  space  at  his  disposal  admits 
of  such  a  feature,  and  whether  the  eff^ect  to  be 
obtained  from  it  is  commensurate  with  the 
labour  Involved  in  keeping  it  trimmed.  If 
he  has  any  doubts  in  the  matter  he  should 
forego  the  verge,  because,  uncared  for,  it  is 
an  unsightly  and  wasteful  feature. 


CHAPTER  IX 

How  TO  Plan  a  Garden 

It  is  well  for  the  gardener  to  start  with  an 
open  mind.  He  should  look  for  suggestions 
from  the  site,  not  omitting  to  take  into  account 
its  immediate  environment.  The  best  gar- 
dens are  personal:  they  take  their  character 
from  their  makers. 

I  am  sometimes  asked  "What  style  of 
garden  would  you  suggest  for  my  plot?" 
and  I  am  tempted  to  reply,  "The  common- 
sense  style."  The  exact  treatment  for  a 
given  plot  is  not  to  be  laid  down  by  rule.  The 
gardener  may  not  recognize  the  possibilities 
of  the  site  at  first  glance,  but  he  will  do  so 
when  he  has  carefully  studied  it.  In  Chapter 
IV  I  showed  the  utility  of  straight  lines  in 
an  oblong  plot  of  limited  size.  I  do  not  wish 
to  magnify  the  difficulties  of  planning,  and  I 
may  say  at  the  outset  that  the  more  knotty 
problems  arise  most  often  in  connection  with 
127 


128  GARDEN    PLANNING 

plots  of  irregular  shapes  or  contours,  or 
plots  unfavourably  conditioned  as  regards 
aspect  and  surroundings.  The  treatment  of 
a  small  rectangular  garden  plot  may  be  a  very 
simple  matter,  provided  due  weight  is  given 
to  aspect.  Yet  even  the  smallest  plot  involves 
alternative  modes  of  planning,  and  then  the 
gardener  must  give  his  casting  vote  for  that 
one  which,  after  satisfying  the  requirements 
of  horticulture  and  the  conditions  which  make 
for  artistic  quality,  best  accords  with  his 
personal  views. 

The  first  point  to  consider  is  the  appor- 
tionment of  the  various  sections  of  the  garden: 

How  much  space  do  I  require  for  vege- 
table ground  .f* 

Do  I  want  a  tennis  or  croquet  lawn.? 

Have  I  to  provide  a  playground  for 
children? 

Must  I  limit  my  flower  space  to  what  I 
can  properly  manage  in  my  spare  time? 

These  —  and  possibly  other  —  questions 
will  occur  to  the  planner,  and  he  should  answer 
them  definitely  before  he  starts  to  plan.  In 
doing  so  he  will  naturally  commence  to  evolve 


HOW   TO    PLAN    A    GARDEN  1 29 

some  kind  of  skeleton  idea  of  what  he  would 
like  his  garden  to  be.  His  next  step  should 
be  to  lay  down  on  paper  a  plan  of  his  garden 
site  to  scale,  say  one  eighth  of  an  inch  to  a 
foot,  and  mark  on  it  the  house,  indicating 
the  position  of  the  doors  back  and  front,  or 
at  the  sides,  as  the  case  may  be.  He  should 
then  add  an  arrow  to  show  the  north  point, 
to  remind  him,  in  the  course  of  his  work,  of  the 
direction  in  which  the  maximum  amount  of 
sunlight  will  fall.  The  gate  by  which  the 
premises  are  entered  from  the  roadway  must 
be  marked  in  its  proper  position.  This  much 
accomplished,  the  gardener  will  have  before 
him  in  bird's-eye  view  the  main  factors  that 
should  control  his  planning. 

If  he  has  decided  to  grow  vegetables,  he 
may  at  once  rule  off  on  the  paper  as  much 
space  as  he  wishes  to  devote  to  that  purpose. 
Usually  this  will  be  situated  at  that  part  of 
the  garden  remote  from  the  house,  and  there 
are  excellent  practical  reasons  for  it  occupying 
that  position.  The  division  should  be  at 
right  angles  to  the  garden's  length  in  a  garden 
with  parallel  sides,  even  though  the  end  fence 
or  wall  is  oblique.     Irregularity  in  the  shape 


130  GARDEN    PLANNING 

of  the  vegetable  plot  Is  immaterial,  and  the 
right-angled  division  squares  things  for  the 
flower  garden. 

Leaving  the  vegetable  ground  for  the  present, 
the  next  thing  is  to  locate  the  principal  border, 
and  If  the  aspect  is  east  or  west,  there  should 
be  no  hesitation  in  giving  it  a  place  against 
the  north  fence,  where  it  will  receive  full  sun. 
The  planner  may  therefore  rule  a  line  parallel 
with  this  fence  six  feet  distant  from  it, 
adding  a  second  parallel  line  at,  say,  three 
feet  beyond  to  define  the  principal  path.  If 
space  permits,  a  third  line  may  be  added,  at 
four  feet  beyond  the  second,  to  mark  off  a 
second  border,  the  near  side  of  which  will  be 
the  grass.  Reference  to  the  Illustration  (Fig. 
29)  will  make  these  operations  clear.  The 
path  is  now  represented  by  a  narrow  ribbon 
with  no  terminal  at  either  end.  We  may  now 
consider  the  approach  to  and  destination  of 
the  path.  The  near  end  must  be  coordinated 
with  the  house  door,  as  explained  In  an  earlier 
chapter,  and  this  could  be  done  by  marking 
oif  a  stretch  of  gravel  immediately  behind  the 
house,  from  which  the  path  may  start  its 
journey.    Such  a  device  is  convenient  when  the 


HOW   TO    PLAN    A    GARDEN  I3I 


Fig.  29. —  Typical  garden  plan  Fig.  30. —  The  method  of  offsets 


132  GARDEN    PLANNING 

aspect  is  that  assumed  in  the  example,  but 
with  a  north  aspect  the  space  about  the  rear 
of  the  house  would  be  too  valuable  to  waste  as 
gravel,  and  another  device  would  have  to  be 
employed.  I  need  not  describe  every  possible 
mode  of  doing  this,  as  many  examples  will 
be  illustrated  in  the  plans  which  follow.  As 
for  the  path's  objective,  I  have  already  offered 
suggestions  in  an  earlier  chapter. 

Though  it  is  a  good  rule  to  make  paths  go 
direct  to  their  destinations,  an  exception  is 
permissible  and  even  desirable  in  a  long  gar- 
den, where  a  single  straight  path  would  prove 
a  monotonous  feature.  I  therefore  favour 
some  device  which  breaks  the  line,  such  as 
may  be  contrived  by  cranking  the  path  or 
by  introducing  an  expansion  into  its  length. 

The  cranked  path  gives  opportunity  for 
allowing  the  principal  border  to  terminate 
in  a  transverse  extension,  by  which  the  vista 
is  improved,  and  a    screening  effect  obtained. 

We  will  assume  that  our  path  sets  out  from 
the  gravel  space  immediately  behind  the  house, 
threads  through  our  borders,  and  terminates 
in,  say,  a  summer  house.  The  treatment 
of  the  space  to   the  south  of  it  may  now  be 


HOW   TO    PLAN    A    GARDEN  I33 

taken  in  hand,  and  In  deciding  how  much  to 
allot  to  the  border  we  must  be  guided  by  our 
sense  of  proportion  and  by  the  value  we  set 
upon  our  grass  plot.  If  space  permits  we 
may  add  a  narrow  border  along  the  southern 
fence  line. 

I  have  now  traced  what  I  may  call  the 
evolution  of  a  small  rectangular  garden.  The 
treatment  has  been  simple,  as  the  case  de- 
manded. As  a  plan,  the  design  ensures  a  proper 
coordination  of  the  garden  with  aspect,  and 
so  much  variety  as  may  be  obtained  within 
so  limited  a  space  without  over-elaboration. 
It  need  hardly  be  mentioned  that  this  par- 
ticular treatment  would  not  hold  good  for  a 
plot  with  a  different  aspect,  and  for  that 
reason  It  should  not  be  copied  unless  the 
aspect  Is  approximately  the  same  as  indicated 
in  this  example. 

The  gardener  has  now  to  build  up  his  picture 
skyward.  This  Involves  the  use  of  such 
natural  objects  as  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers, 
and  of  such  artificial  adjuncts  as  arches,  per- 
golas, summer  houses,  arbours,  and  the  like. 
Before  he  decides  upon  the  placing  of  these 
things  he  should  sally  forth   to  the  site,  plan 


134  GARDEN    PLANNING 

in  hand,  and  take  his  stand,  say,  near  the  house 
door,  or  in  some  central  position  from  which 
he  may  hope  in  time  to  obtain  a  general  view 
of  his  garden  picture.  There  he  may  exercise 
his  mind  by  building  in  imagination  upon  his 
ground  plan,  seeking  to  place  such  features 
as  he  may  decide  to  introduce  into  the  garden. 
He  will  obtain  suggestions  from  already  exist- 
ing objects.  For  instance,  the  presence  of  a 
well-grown  tree  on  neighbouring  premises  may 
help  the  picture,  enabling  him  to  dispense 
with  the  planting  of  trees  on  his  own.  On 
the  other  hand,  he  may  observe  some  un- 
sightly object  which  it  will  be  necessary  to 
endeavour  to  screen  from  view. 

Bearing  in  mind  what  I  have  already  written 
about  "composition"  in  the  artist's  sense  of 
the  term,  he  must  avoid  symmetry  in  masses, 
and  seek  for  balance  of  effect  by  other  means. 
If  he  has  decided  upon  a  garden-house,  let 
him  have  it  built  with  a  simple,  pointed  roof, 
and  restrain  his  impulses  in  the  direction  of 
destroying  its  outlines  with  a  maze  of  rustic 
work.  Its  pyramid  form  is  useful  in  giving 
a  certain  punctuation  to  the  skyline.  He 
may  even   decorate   it  with   a  weather-cock, 


HOW    TO    PLAN    A    GARDEN  1 35 

which  would  be  quite  appropriate  and  useful 
in  the  picture.  I  do  not  demand  that  the 
garden-house  shall  stand  out  naked  amidst 
its  surroundings;  it  will  be  better  associated 
with  trees  and  shrubs.  It  is  not  desirable  to 
have  a  uniformity  in  height  in  these  artificial 
structures.  If  arches  or  a  pergola  are  intro- 
duced into  the  scheme,  do  not  let  them  soar 
up  to  the  level  of  the  weather-cock  on  your 
garden-house. 

Trees  are  always  useful  in  attaining  that 
necessary  height  in  the  garden  picture  for 
which  the  designer  must  work.  They  must 
be  placed  so  that  their  shadows  do  not  intrude 
upon  the  flower  borders,  and,  as  I  have  already 
stated,  their  arrangement  must  be  innocent 
of  symmetry. 

Let  no  two  be  at  the  same  distance  from 
your  standpoint,  and  select  them  of  different 
kinds  and  sizes.  Grouping  is  preferable  to 
scattering,  or  placing  the  trees  in  "serried 
rows." 

By  carefully  weighing  these  various  points, 
with  the  plan  before  you,  it  will  not  be  difficult 
to  arrive  at  a  provisional  arrangement  of  the 
accessories    we    have    been    discussing.     You 


136 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


may  next  jot  down  on  the  plan  where  you 
think  an  arch,  tree,  or  pergola  will  be  of  value, 
and  you  will  then  have  all  but  completed  your 
labour  —  on  paper. 

Lastly,  such  smaller  accessories  as  sundials^ 

y 


Fig.  31. —  Arrangement  of  trees 

vases,  and  rockwork  can  be  located,  and  in- 
dicated to  scale  on  the  drawing. 

All  this  time  we  have  left  the  vegetable 
plot  alone,  after  cutting  it  off  from  the  flower 
territory,  and  we  must  now  revert  to  it.  Some 
gardeners  may  prefer  to  treat  it  as  a  thing 


HOW   TO    PLAN    A    GARDEN  1 37 

apart,  to  be  concealed  at  all  costs.  Gardens, 
however,  are  so  small  in  these  days  of  dear 
land  that  we  cannot  afford  to  neglect  the 
possibilities  of  the  vegetable  plot  in  the  general 
garden  effect.  Therefore  we  should  see  how  far 
we  can  use  it  to  increase  the  apparent  space 
at  our  disposal.  A  good  way  of  effecting  this 
result  is  to  contrive  that  a  flower  border,  or 
borders,  continue  from  the  flower  garden 
into  and  through  the  vegetable  plot,  thereby 
extending  the  garden  vista  to  the  extreme  limit 
of  the  ground. 

In  certain  circumstances  it  may  be  advisable, 
for  the  sake  of  obtaining  a  particular  effect, 
to  adopt  a  division  between  the  kitchen  and 
flower  garden  which  is  not  a  straight  line. 
It  may  be  a  bold  curve  or  a  cranked  line. 

The  division  may  be  definitely  marked  by  a 
fence  or  hedge,  or  less  conspicuously  indicated 
by  an  informal  line  of  shrubs.  Much  depends 
upon  the  disposition  of  the  other  factors  and 
the  gardener's  views  as  to  the  desirability  or 
not  of  allowing  his  vegetable  productions  to 
claim  attention.  I  would  not  for  a  moment 
contend  that  the  kitchen  garden  is  unsightly. 
On  the  contrary,  its  bold  masses  of  green  may 


138  GARDEN    PLANNING 

be  valuable  as  background,  and  by  no  means 
unbeautiful  in  themselves.  Still  there  are 
times  when  the  tenants  of  the  vegetable  plot 
do  not  look  their  best  —  as,  for  instance,  when 
Brussels  sprouts  tower  lankily  skyward,  and 
peas  are  yellowing  and  sinking  into  disorder. 

The  planning  of  gardens  of  larger  size  than 
the  typical  example  just  treated  involves  the 
same  general  principles,  though  the  details  and 
style  of  treatment  may  be  different.  It  is 
mainly  a  question  of  scale,  though  the  inclusion 
of  additional  features  facilitated  by  the  larger 
area  of  ground  available  may  tend  to  complicate 
the  problem.  Still  the  mode  of  procedure 
should  be  along  lines  similar  to  those  already 
described,  and  the  planner  must  ever  be  alive 
to  the  importance  of  studying  aspect  and  of 
building  up  a  picture  in  three  dimensions. 

Gardens  of  irregular  outline  may  in- 
volve some  early  difficulties  in  planning, 
but  they  are  generally  amenable  to  treat- 
ment on  common-sense  principles,  and  not 
infrequently  such  gardens  are,  by  their  unusual 
shape,  eminently  adapted  for  obtaining  pic- 
turesque effects.  Examples  of  such  gardens 
will  be  found  in  a  later  chapter,  reference  to 


HOW    TO    PLAN    A    GARDEN  1 39 

which  will  afford  the  reader  more  guidance 
than  further  written  description. 

When,  by  reason  of  the  nature  of  the  ground, 
its  extent,  or  the  special  predilections  of  the 
gardener,  the  main  lines  of  the  garden  are  to 
be  treated  in  curves,  the  key  to  the  best  result 
is  not  always  so  easy  to  find.  To  those  who 
may  have  difficulty  in  thinking  in  curves,  I 
may  suggest  that  they  first  lay  down  the 
main  lines  of  the  plan  in  straight  lines,  after- 
ward translating  them  into  sinuous  ones.  This 
may  be  of  some  help,  but  it  will  not  remove 
all  the  difficulties,  and  it  is  not  easy  to  give 
rules  to  cover  the  whole  ground. 

It  may  be  taken  as  bad  practice,  however, 
to  associate  curves  with  straight  lines,  as,  for 
example,  to  oppose  a  straight  grass  edge  to  a 
curved  border,  leaving  a  path  of  varying  width 
between.  I  am  not  sure  that  the  practice  of 
running  a  border,  whose  near  line  is  a  series 
of  curves,  along  a  straight  fence  is  to  be  com- 
mended, though  it  is  often  done.  Its  best 
excuse  is  that  the  shrubs  and  taller  plants 
in  part  conceal  the  foot  of  the  fence  and  render 
its  straightness  less  conspicuous. 

In  the  laying  down  of  curves  geometry  helps 


140  GARDEN    PLANNING 

US  but  little.  The  eye  is  the  better  guide, 
and  a  length  of  rope  an  excellent  help  when 
marking  out  the  ground.  The  rope  may  be 
laid  along  the  proposed  route  of  a  curved  path, 
and  its  perspective  appearance  noted.  If  the 
curve  fails  to  satisfy  the  eye  the  rope  can 
be  moved  and  rearranged  until  a  good  result 
is  obtained. 

All  curves  which  are  parts  of  circles  are 
easily  described  with  the  help  of  a  cord  and 
centre  peg. 

When  setting  out  curves  the  course  of  which 
has  first  been  laid  down  on  the  plan  the  method 
of  offsets   is   the   easiest.     (See  Fig.  30.) 

This  is  sufficiently  explained  in  the  illus- 
tration, where  a  boundary  fence  is  the  datum 
line.  When  the  curve  passes  over  an  open 
space  a  special  datum  line  must  be  laid  down, 
either  by  the  use  of  a  stretched  cord  or  a  row 
of  pegs  sighted  into  line. 


CHAPTER  X 
Sloping  Gardens 

Gardens  upon  sloping  ground,  if  the  slope 
is  considerable,  demand  special  treatment, 
which  will  vary  according  to  circumstances. 
Such  gardens  may  be  made  picturesque  and 
interesting,  but  are  hardly  desirable  acquisi- 
tions to  the  horticultural  enthusiast.  This  is 
particularly  the  case  if  the  aspect  is  other 
than  southern. 

In  a  steeply  sloping  garden  the  aim  should 
be  a  quite  informal  or  naturalesque  treatment. 
Winding  walks  may  be  carried  across  the  slope, 
turning  upon  themselves  in  an  Irregular 
zigzag.  Here  and  there  pockets  may  be 
carved  out  of  the  hillside  to  make  level 
space  for  flower  growing. 

Terracing,  the  only  effective  way  of  securing 
sufficient  level  space,  is  always  a  costly  matter, 
and  when  the  slope  is  considerable  it  would 
result  in  a  heavy,  artificial  effect  as  seen  from 


142  GARDEN    PLANNING 

the  lower  levels.     On  the  whole  it  is  better 
not  to  attempt  too  much  on  a  steep  hillside. 

The  first  illustration  indicates  in  sectional  view 
the  treatment  I  should  adopt.  Trees  and  shrubs 
may  be  used  with  good 
effect  to  mask  the 
slopes  and  outlines  of 
the  artificial  work.  The 


Fig.  32. — Terracing — sectional 
view 

entrance  drive  or  walk 
should  be  carried  in  a  direction  across 
the  slope  as  far  as  possible,  and  if  excavation 
and  banking  have  to  be  done,  it  may  run  suf- 
ficiently far  back  on  either  side  to  provide 
space  for  flower  ground. 


Fig.  33. —  Terracing  —  sectional  view 

In     the     case     of      small     gardens,     some 
simple  system  of  terracing  like  that  indicated 


SLOPING    GARDENS  I43 

in    the    second     sectional    view     is    the    best 
treatment. 

The  natural  slope  is  shown  by  a  dotted  line 
and  it  is  evident  just  how  much  excavation 
and  banking  is  necessary.  By  a  little  care  in 
fixing  the  levels  it  may  be  contrived  that  the 
excavated  soil  is  just  sufficient  for  making 
the  banks.  This  is  an  example  of  a  slope 
away  from  the  house.  When  the  garden  slopes 
toward  the  house  a  different  method  should  be 
followed,  because  the  effect  of  looking  from  a 
low  level  up  a  slope  is  that  little  or  nothing 
on  the  level  Is  seen. 


Fig.  34. —  Terracing  —  sectional  view 


Thus,  If  terracing  is  done  with  a  view  to 
obtaining  level  stretches,  the  beds  and  borders 
will  be  hidden  from  sight  until  the  observer 
ascends  to  their  level.  It  is  better,  therefore, 
that  the  terraced  part  should  be  given  a  slight 
slope  toward  the  house,  as  Fig.  34  shows. 
Gardens  falling  away  from  the  house  are 
liable   to   be   very   dry   at   the   highest   point. 


144  GARDEN    PLANNING 

On  the  other  hand,  gardens  which  slope  to. 
ward  the  house  throw  the  rain-water  to  the 
lower  level,  necessitating  some  system  of 
drainage  for  carrying  it  away. 

In  treating  of  terracing  in  small  gardens  I 
do  not  use  the  term  in  the  sense  of  walled 
terraces.  Walls  are  costly  and  not  always 
sightly  adjuncts,  especially  in  a  small  garden. 
The  drop  from  one  level  to  the  next  may  be 
made  by  means  of  a  grassed  bank,  a  retaining 
board,  or  a  rock-faced  slope,  according  to 
circumstances.  When  the  slope  is  to  the 
south,  the  face  of  the  bank  Is  well  placed  for 
treatment  as  an  alpine  garden,  and  I  know 
of  no  better  way  of  dealing  with  it.  ^On  grassed 


Fig.  3S.— Steps  in  path 


slopes    shrubs    may   be   used   to   conceal    the 
horizontal  margin  of  the  slope. 

Paths  which  pass  from  one  level  to  another 


SLOPING    GARDENS  I45 

require  to  be  stepped,  and  this  may  be  done  in 
many  ways.  Possibly  the  most  economical 
method  is  to  fix  wooden  risers  by  nailing  them 
to  stout  pegs  well  driven  into  the  soil  at  each 
end,  and  to  fill  in  the  treads  with  gravel  beaten 
down  and  brought  to  a  fair  surface.  Re- 
taining boards  should  be  fixed  at  the  sides, 
as  shown  in  the  illustration. 

Gardens  in  which  the  natural  slope  is  trans- 
verse to  their  length  do  not  involve  the  same 
difficulties,  and  they  are  not  usually  found  of 
such  steep  gradients,-  or,  if  they  are,  their  small 
width,  compared  with  their  length,  makes  the 
problem  of  planning  a  simpler  one.  It  often 
becomes  feasible  to  effect  a  change  of  levels 
at  the  path  line  in  some  such  way  as  appears 
in  this  sectional  view. 


Fig.  36. —  Dealing  with  a  transverse  slope 

In   this   illustration   it  will   be   seen   that   a 
raised   border  is   made  on  the  higher  side  of 


146  GARDEN    PLANNING 

the  path,  supported_  hy  a  retaining  board, 
rubble  wall,  or  by  rockwork.  If  the  lower 
boundary  is  a  fence,  the  water  which  drains 
to  that  level  will  tend  to  rot  it.  It  is  good 
practice,  therefore,  to  make  the  fence  open 
for  two  or  three  inches  above  the  ground  sur- 
face. If  the  boundary  is  a  wall  it  may  be 
necessary  to  introduce  a  rubble  drain  along 
its  foot.  In  neither  case,  however,  would  such 
an  expedient  be  necessary  unless  the  soil  was  a 
heavy  and  impervious  one.  A  narrow  border 
along  the  lower  boundary  will  usu- 
ally serve  as  sufficient  drainage.         ^5 


Dealing  with  a  transverse  slope 

When  the  slope  is  steep  in  a 
transverse  direction  it  may  be  necessary  to  re- 
make the  ground  by  raising  the  lower  side  with 
soil  taken  from  the  higher,  and  if  the  lower 
boundary  is  a  fence  this  would  necessitate  a 
bank,  as  it  would  not  be  feasible  to  allow  any 
depth  of  soil  to  lie  in  contact  with  the  fence. 


SLOPING    GARDENS  I47 

The  existence  of  such  a  bank  as  seen  in  the  illus- 
tration (Fig.  37)  is  not  a  very  sightly  feature 
in  any  garden,  and  should  only  be  adopted 
when  the  circumstances  preclude  any  other 
arrangement,  and  in  that  event  the  best  plan 
is  to  plant  the  head  of  the  bank  with  shrubs 
or  with  a  hedge. 

The  only  other  case  to  be  mentioned  is  that 
in  which  the  slope  is  diagonal,  and  for  that 
no  special  guidance  can  be  offered,  because 
so  much  will  depend  upon  the  amount  of  slope 
and  its  direction  considered  with  reference  to 
aspect.  The  aim  should  be  to  model  the 
surface  in  such  a  way  as  to  secure  the  proper 
conditions  for  horticulture  and  the  convenience 
of  the  garden  user,  without  attempting  too 
much  work  of  an  artificial  character.  It 
should  always  be  remembered  that  dead-level 
plateaus  on  a  considerable  slope  proclaim 
themselves  as  man's  handiwork,  wherefore 
it  is  well  to  conceal  as  much  of  this  work  as 
possible. 

In  some  cases  it  may  be  desirable  to  effect 
a  compromise  by  not  setting  out  to  bring  the 
ground  to  a  series  of  levels,  but  by  merely 
modifying  the  original  slope  to  a  series  of  slopes 


148  GARDEN    PLANNING 

of  less  gradient.  In  all  such  problems  the  main 
point  is  not  to  outrage  Nature,  but  rather  to 
coax  her  in  the  direction  in  which  we  wish 
her  to  go,  covering  up  our  footsteps  as  we 
proceed  in  the  work,  so  that  the  final  result 
shall  not  disclose  too  obviously  what  it  owes 
to  spade  work. 

As  steps  are  necessary  adjuncts  in  sloping 
gardens,  I  may  give  some  further  suggestions 
for  making  them. 

An  alternative  plan  to  the  one  already  de- 
scribed is  that  shown  in  the  third  figure  in  the 
illustration  (Fig.  38),  in  which  the  treads  are 
made  of  stout  boards  supported  on  pegs  driven 
Into  the  ground.  Yet  another  plan  is  to  attach 
the  treads  to  cheeks  of  wood,  making  a  single 
complete  structure,  as  in  the  fourth  figure. 

When  the  path  passes  through  rockwork 
I  always  build  the  steps  of  rock  pieces. 

Bricks  may  be  employed  for  steps,  either 
set  in  mortar  or  laid  loose,  as  in  the  first  figure. 
They  are  better  laid  on  edge,  and  it  is  well 
to  chip  off  the  angle  where  the  tread  and  riser 
meet,  or  to  use  bull-nosed  bricks. 

Slabs  of  stone  make  good  steps,  and  by  their 
weight  keep  in  place  if  well  bedded,  without 


SLOPING    GARDENS 


149 


Fig.  38.— Steps 


ISO 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


the  need  for  cheeks,  though  it  is  best  to  make 
the  risers  of  brick  to  prevent  soil  from  working 
out  from  beneath  the  tread.  On  moderate 
slopes  the  riser  ma^  be  of  soil  left  at  an  angle 
and    turfed.     There    is    something    quite    un- 


•tJ^ 


3 


Fig-  39- —  Spreading  steps 

conventional  in  such  steps  as  illustrated  in  the 
second  figure. 

When  the  slope  is  moderate,  but  long,  it  is 
well  to  break  the  line  of  steps  into  two  or  more 
flights,  as  a  concession  to  appearances. 

When  the  difference  of  level  is  small,  a  good 
effect  will  result  from  spreading  the  steps 
in  one  of  the  ways  shown  in  Fig.  39. 

I  have  avoided  reference  to  architectural 
features  associated  with  steps,  as,  for  instance, 
side  and  wing  walls,  pillars,  and  caps.     These, 


SLOPING    GARDENS  I5I 

if  introduced  into  a  small  garden,  should  be 
unpretentious,  and  as  far  as  possible  designed 
to  accord  with  the  architecture  of  the  house. 
If  capped  with  flat  stones  the  pillars  may  carry 
vases  with  good  effect,  always  provided  the 
latter  are  chosen  with  taste  and  a  sense  of 
proportion  and  fitness  for  their  surroundings. 


CHAPTER  XI 

The  Rock  Garden 

There  is  no  feature  in  the  modern  small 
garden  so  badly  contrived  as  the  rock  garden, 
or  "rockery,"  as  it  has  come  to  be  called.  It 
is  too  often  but  a  formless  heap  of  stone  rubbish 
or  clinkers  in  which  a  few  sickly  ferns  struggle 
for  existence.  A  rock  garden  need  not  be  large 
to  be  interesting,  but  it  must  be  properly  con- 
structed and  placed  where  the  sun  can  reach 
it.  To  the  real  flower-lover  the  rock  garden 
is  a  delight.  There  is  no  corner  of  his  domain 
which  yields  more  interest.  It  is  a  garden  with- 
in a  garden,  a  place  where  nature  has  all  her 
own  way,  rewarding  him  with  quaint  and  beau- 
tiful flowers  and  varied  foliage  from  early 
spring  to  winter  frosts.  It  is  well  to  under- 
stand the  scope  and  purpose  of  the  rock  gar- 
den, a  thing  all  too  often  overlooked.  The 
common  plan  of  heaping  together  a  mass  of 
stone   and    mineral  curiosities    into  a  grotto- 

IS2 


THE    ROCK    GARDEN  I 53 

like  structure,  and  sprinkling  the  whole  with 
soil,  is  the  outcome  of  a  misunderstanding  of 
first  principles.  Let  us  look  into  the  matter 
closely,  and  see  just  why  our  alpine  plants 
should  be  associated  with  such  apparently  un- 
congenial material  as  stone  masses.  The 
answer  is  clear,  if  we  inquire  as  to  the  character 
of  their  native  habitat.  The  casual  observer 
who  has  wandered  through  the  Swiss  uplands 
will  have  seen  a  wealth  of  plant  life,  jewelled 
with  gorgeous  blossom,  clinging  apparently  to 
the  bare  surface  of  a  rock,  and  he  will  have  won- 
dered how  the  solid  stone  could  furnish  food  for 
so  luxuriant  a  display.  Yet  if  he  had  pushed 
his  investigation  carefully  on  the  spot  he  would 
have  found  that  every  plant  was  rooted  deeply 
in  some  crevice  filled  with  soil.  Here,  then, 
is  the  explanation.  The  rock  is  but  the  flower 
pot.  But  it  serves  a  very  important  purpose 
as  such,  holding  a  reserve  of  moisture  gathered 
from  the  sky,  and  yearly  collecting  an  ad- 
ditional store  of  soil,  the  fine  debris  of  the  moun- 
tain-side. Thus  the  plant  has  availed  itself  of 
natural  conditions  eminently  adapted  for  its 
welfare,  and  therefore  it  flourishes. 

The  rock  garden  is  man's  attempt  to  imitate 


154  GARDEN    PLANNING 

these  natural  conditions,  and  if  it  fails  in  this, 
its  principal  function,  how  can  it  serve  its  pur- 
pose as  a  home  for  the  plant? 

The  idea,  not  by  any  means  uncommon  with 
those  who  have  not  looked  closely  into  the 
question,  that  there  is  some  magic  virtue  in 
the  rock  itself  by  which  these  plants  obtain 
food  suitable  for  their  needs,  must  be  aban- 
doned. The  function  of  the  rock  pieces  in 
our  alpine  garden  is  twofold.  They  serve  to 
give  us  a  suggestion  of  the  natural  environment 
of  the  plants  we  wish  to  grow,  which  is  good; 
but,  better  still,  they  conserve  the  moisture  in 
the  soil,  and  thus  ensure  that  the  plants  have 
a  constant  supply  of  it  in  all  weathers. 

This  being  so,  it  is  well  to  select  our  rocks 
from  material  which  is  porous,  and  therefore 
capable  of  holding  in  its  substance  a  certain 
reserve  of  moisture.  Yet  an  impervious  stone 
is  better  than  none,  as  it  reduces  the  area  of 
soil  subject  to  evaporation. 

The  next  point  to  understand  is  that  the  soil 
in  our  rock  garden  must  be  well  drained.  This 
may  be  attained  by  ensuring  that  it  is  of  a 
porous  character  and  of  sufficient  depth.  Drain- 
age is  assisted  by  elevating  the  rock  garden. 


THE    ROCK    GARDEN  1 55 

or,  what  comes  to  the  same  thing,  by  sinking 
Its  floor  below  the  general  level. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  be  lavish  of  rocks.  In 
a  well-designed  rock  garden  the  soil  should 
bulk  at  least  as  largely  as  the  rocks. 

Position  —  The  rock  garden  should  be  as 
far  removed  from  a  formal  environment  as 
possible.  It  is,  or  should  be,  our  best  attempt 
to  imitate  a  piece  of  nature.  If  it  is  associated 
with  walls,  greenhouses,  or  other  artificial 
surroundings  the  illusion  falls  to  pieces.  It  Is 
better  also  to  keep  it  away  from  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  trees,  whose  roots  would  find  their 
way  into  the  soil  and  exhaust  it,  and  whose 
leaves  In  autumn  would  sadly  litter  its  surface. 
Moreover,  it  is  well  to  be  consistent  in  our 
mimicry,  and  to  remember  that  the  landscape 
Is  Innoct^nt  of  trees  at  the  altitude  where  alpine 
flowers  thrive  best. 

Aspect  —  The  above  conditions  being  satis- 
fied, the  only  other  one  of  importance  is  that 
the  alpine  garden  should  have  a  sunny  aspect, 
though  this  does  not  imply  that  every  part 
must  enjoy  full  sun;  nor  would  that  be  desirable, 
since  there  are  plants  which  will  thrive  all  the 
better  in  shade  or  partial  shade. 


156  GARDEN    PLANNING 

One  great  charm  of  the  rock  garden  is  its 
variety,  and  that  can  best  be  maintained  by- 
providing  all  the  conditions  of  aspect  and  ex- 
posure demanded  by  the  various  plants  avail- 
able for  our  purpose. 

Materials  —  Perhaps  the  best  material  for 
the  purpose  is  sandstone,  but  in  most  cases 
the  gardener  has  to  be  content  with  what  is 
most  easily  obtainable  in  his  district.  A 
hard,  close-grained  sandstone,  granitic  rock,  or 
tuffa,  limestone,  and  conglomerate  will  do. 
Soft  stones  which  crumble  away  under  weather 
influence  are  obviously  unsuitable. 

If  natural  stone  is  unprocurable,  or  its  cost 
prohibitive,  then  the  gardener  must  make 
shift  with  brickyard  waste,  but  he  should  select 
that  which  is  porous. 

Clinkers,  vitrified  brick  fragments,  dressed 
stone  blocks,  portions  of  decayed  statuary, 
lumps  of  alabaster,  minerals,  and  sea-shells 
should  never  be  seen  in  the  alpine  garden. 
Tree  stumps  also  should  be  avoided,  as  they 
harbour  fungi  to  the  detriment  of   the  plants. 

The  stone  pieces  should  not  be  too  small  nor 
too  uniform  in  size.  Good  bold  pieces  up  to 
the  largest  size  the  gardener  can  conveniently 


THE    ROCK    GARDEN  1 57 

handle  should  be  procured,  and  by  preference 
they  should  be  quadrangular,  though  only  very 
roughly  so. 

Professional  constructors  sometimes  use  an 
artificial  stone  made  on  the  spot,  by  plastering 
a  coloured  cement  over  a  basis  of  rough  brick- 
work. I  have  seen  some  very  clever  work  of 
this  kind,  indistinguishable  from  a  natural 
out-crop  of  rock,  and,  for  all  I  know  to  the  con- 
trary, it  may  serve  excellently.  But  unless 
done  by  skilled  hands  accustomed  to  imitating 
the  form  and  stratification  of  the  natural  rock, 
it  would  be  a  failure.  I  have  seen  it  suggested 
that  good  imitation  rocks  may  be  made  by 
coating  brickyard  waste  with  Portland  cement. 
The  objection  to  these  processes  is  the  liability 
of  the  artificial  surface  to  be  flaked  off  by  frost 
or  rough  usage,  thereby  exposing  the  fraud. 

Soil  —  In  this  particular  we  cannot  do  better 
than  follow  nature.  We  have  seen  that  in 
alpine  regions  the  crevices  in  the  rocks  become 
filled  with  fine  debris,  the  disintegrated  par- 
ticles of  the  rock  itself,  and  therefore  contain- 
ing small  stones  and  sand,  with  which,  of  course, 
is  associated  humus  derived  from  decaying 
plant   life.     This,  then,  suggests    an   artificial 


158  GARDEN    PLANNING 

mixture  for  our  rock  garden  In  which  similar 
ingredients  find  place.  Such  a  mixture  may- 
be made  as  follows: 

Good  friable  loam       ...  6  parts 

Chips  of  sandstone     ...  I  part 

Sand  or  road  scrapings    .      .  2  parts 

Leaf  mould i  part 

To  this  may  be  added  a  moderate  proportion 
of  well-decayed  stable  manure.  The  whole 
should  be  well  mixed  and  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Although  the  above  compost  will  suit  the 
greater  number  of  plants  usually  grown  in  a 
rock  garden,  it  is  unsuitable  for  bog  plants  and 
for  those  which  thrive  best  in  a  calcareous 
soil. 

To  meet  the  needs  of  these  it  is  desirable  to 
reserve  a  place  where  some  peat  may  be  intro- 
duced for  the  benefit  of  the  bog  plants,  and  to 
add  a  limy  constituent  to  the  compost  (lime 
or  broken  limestone)  for  those  parts  of  the  gar- 
den in  which  it  is  intended  to  grow  lime-loving 
plants.  Beyond  that  it  is  hardly  feasible  or 
worth  while  to  go  in  specializing  the  soil. 

The  prepared  soil  must  be  entirely  free  from 
clay,  and  to  ensure  this  care  should  be  taken 
to  obtain  the  proper  kind  of  loam. 


THE    ROCK    GARDEN  I 59 

Making — Having  obtained  the  rocks  and  the 
soil,  and  having  selected  a  suitable  site  for  the 
rock  garden,  the  forming  of  its  contours  may 
be  undertaken.  In  most  cases  a  path  will 
pass  through  it,  but  this  will  have  to  be  made 
last.  Bearing  in  mind  the  importance  of  drain- 
age, the  gardener  must  first  decide  whether 
his  rockwork  shall  stand  above  the  general 
surface  or  be  partly  sunk  below  it.  On  heavy 
clay  soil  the  former  plan  is  best;  on  a 
gravel,  or  other  kind  of  porous  soil,  the 
latter.  A  sunk  garden  has  the  advantage 
that  the  excavated  soil  is  useful  for  building 
up  the  banks,  provided,  of  course,  that  it  is 
suitable  as  an  ingredient  in  the  compost  just 
described. 

The  gardener  may  next  proceed  to  mark  out 
the  plan,  by  pegging  or  otherwise,  and  then 
barrow  the  soil  into  place.  Now  comes  an  im- 
portant part  of  the  operation,  for  the  final 
effect  is  controlled  by  the  way  in  which  he 
arranges  his  heaps.  He  should  endeavour  to 
avoid  a  formal  or  symmetrical  distribution  of 
masses,  which  is  never  seen  in  nature,  by  throw- 
ing them  up  as  if  their  shape  and  height  were  a 
matter  of  chance. 


i6o 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


The  illustration  below  gives  a  suggestion  of 
what  should  be  aimed  at.  Not  until  he  has  com- 
pleted the  whole  of  the  base-work  should  he  add 
the  rocks,  because  as  the  work  proceeds  he  may- 


Fig.  40.  —  Earthwork  in  the  rock  garden 

find  it  advisable  to  raise  the  ground  here  or 
lower  it  there  to  improve  its  contours,  which  he 
should  view  from  various  standpoints  to  make 
sure  that  he  has  obtained  a  good  general  effect. 
That  much  accomplished,  the  gardener  may 
commence  to  place  his  rocks  by  outlining  with 
them  the  foot  of  each  slopCjthereby  at  the  same 
time  defining  his  path.  For  this  part  of  the 
work  he  should  select  rocks  of  various  sizes, 
here  and  there  introducing  a  bold  mass  to  ac- 
centuate some  angle,  thereby  avoiding  the 
effect  of  an  artificial  edging.  This  edging  must 
be  well  done,  with  the  rocks  in  close  contact, 


THE    ROCK    GARDEN  l6l 

Otherwise  much  soil  will  be  subsequently  washed 
out  on  to  the  gravel;  but  no  cementing  medium 
should  be  employed.  Such  crevices  as  remain 
may  be  well  rammed  with  compost,  and  will 
then  offer  temptation  to  the  plants  to  thread 
them  with  rootlets,  by  which  the  soil  will  be 
sufficiently  held  in  place. 

In  laying  down  the  line  of  the  path  no  at- 
tempt should  be  made  to  maintain  equality  of 
width  throughout.  On  the  contrary,  a  much 
better  effect  is  secured  if  the  path  varies  in 
width.  I  would  even  advocate  the  placing,  at 
one  or  more  spots,  of  an  island  of  rockwork  in 
or  near  the  centre  of  a  specially  contrived  ex- 
pansion of  the  path.     (See  Figs.  105,  116,  129.) 


Fig.  41. —  Rockwork  section 

The  soil  may  next  be  brought  forward  to 
stand  level  with  the  rocks  at  all  points,  thus 
affording  a  basis  on  which  to  proceed  with  the 
next  tier,  which,  with  those  above  it,  must  be 
contrived    as    a   number   of   irregular   pockets 


l62  GARDEN    PLANNING 

Standing  at  different  levels,  and  not  as  a  series 
of  parallel  terraces,  which  would  be  an  obviously 
artificial  arrangement.  Here  again  bold  pieces 
of  rock  must  be  used  at  irregular  intervals, 
constituting  miniature  ramparts,  over  which 
some  pretty  trailing  plant  will  later  on  make  a 
gay  show,  or  which  a  delicate  arenaria  may 
clothe  with  its  velvet 
greenery  and  tiny 
white  stars. 


Fig.  42. —  Rocks  in  relation  to  soil 

The  rock  masses  should  not  be  deeply  buried. 
A  good  rule  is  that  on  the  exposed  side  no  rock 
should  be  deeper  in  the  soil  than  one  fourth  of 
its  height,  or  sufficient  to  effectively  anchor  it 
in  place. 

The  rock  masses  should  not  lie  higgledy- 
piggledy,  but  there  should  be  some  kind  of 
relation  amongst  them,  which  is  best  secured 
by  giving  all  the  flattened  masses  a  slight  tilt 
in  some  particular  direction,  to  convey  the 
idea  of  a  naturally  inclined  stratification. 


THE    ROCK    GARDEN  163 

Rocks  set  on  end,  sugarloaf  fashion,  are  not 
infrequently  seen  in  the  gardens  of  amateurs, 
but  they  should  be  omitted  by  those  who  aim 
at  the  best  effect.  If  height  is  desired  at  some 
given  point,  a  couple  of  bold  masses  may  be 
superimposed,  led  up  to  by  other  pieces,  as 
would  occur  in  nature. 


Fig.  43. —  Arrangement  of  rock  masses 

The  pockets  or  spaces  of  bare  soil  should 
vary  in  size,  and  be  irregular  in  shape.  They 
should  never  take  the  form  of  a  series  of  scal- 
lops. Some  inclination  may  be  allowed  to  the 
soil,  but  not  much,  or  it  will  certainly  travel 
downward  with  each  shower  of  rain. 

Rough  steps  may  be  introduced  at  a  suitable 
point  or  points,  say  to  give  access  to  the  rock 
garden  from  the  grass  plot.  These  steps  may 
be  built  of  flat  rock  pieces,  their  crevices  being 
filled  with  soil,  in  which  rock-foils  and  stone- 


164  GARDEN    PLANNING 

crops  may  afterward  be  encouraged  to  grow. 
If  these  steps  be  introduced,  it  is  better  to 
carry  them  between  two  adjacent  mounds  than 
to  make  them  ascend  a  conspicuous  elevation. 
A  visit  to  a  well-made  rock  garden  in  the  winter- 
time will  afford  the  gardener  much  practical 
guidance  in  this  kind  of  work.  He  will  see 
just  how  far  it  is  possible  to  reahze  a  natural- 
istic effect,  and  may  gain  some  wrinkles  in  re- 
gard to  the  disposition  of  his  rocks. 

Although  in  the  past  the  real  rock  garden  has 
been  a  negligible  quantity  in  American  gardens, 
recent  years  have  seen  a  greatly  increased 
interest  in  their  building.  The  fact  that  the 
rock  garden  offers  the  gardener  the  chance  of 
growing  a  large  collection  of  plants  of  small 
size  and  low  stature  that  would  get  lost  in  the 
open  border,  is  to  many  people  a  sufficient  justi- 
fication for  the  introduction  of  this  feature. 

There  are  rock  gardens  in  which  the  chief 
charm  is  their  rocks,  placed  together  so  skil- 
fully that  they  might  be  mistaken  for  a  natural 
out-crop.  Such  gardens  have  cost  their  owners 
many  hundreds  of  dollars,  but  they  are  no  bet- 
ter for  their  purpose  than  the  more  simple 
type  of  garden  I  am  describing.     The  gardener 


THE    ROCK    GARDEN  165 

must  try  to  avoid  appearances  which  indicate 
too  obviously  the  artificial  character  of  the 
work.  For  instance,  a  promontory  formed  at 
a  bend  in  the  path  should  have  a  line  more 
nearly  approaching  the  first  than  the  second 
figure  in  the  accompanying  illustration. 


Fig.  44. —  Arrangements  of  rock  masses 

An  artist  would  instinctively  produce  good 
contours;  the  less  favoured  individual  must  be 
guided  by  these  precepts,  and  by  such  examples 
as  he  may  find  to  imitate. 

Though  I  do  not  offer  it  as  an  inducement  to 
indifferent  work,  I  may  remark  that  Nature  is 
ever  kind  to  her  votaries,  and  when  the  garden 
has  been  planted  she  will  do  her  best  to  conceal 
shortcomings. 

For  bog  plants  it  is  well  to  arrange  one  or 
more  bays,  in  which  the  peat  may  lie  in  a  level 
surface,  as  peat  is  unstable  on  a  slope.    An 


i66 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


angle  in  the  general  structure  may  be  cut  off 
by  a  line  of  small  rock  pieces  (not  a  straight 
line),  and  in  that  way  a  large  pocket  at  the  base- 
level  can  be  made,  in  which  the  peat  may  be 
laid  on  a  not  too  porous  subsoil.  Bog  plants 
demand    a   water-logged   home.     If  water   is 


•♦■-'•M,-,:^ 


Fig.  45. —  Arrangements  of  peat  in  the  rock  garden 

associated  with  the  rock  garden,  the  place  for 
bog  plants  is  at  its  edge,  where  the  peat 
may  be  allowed  in  actual  contact  with  the 
water. 

When  all  the  rocks  are  in  place,  and  the  result 
when  critically  viewed  is  satisfactory,  the  gar- 
dener should  proceed  to  fill  in  all  holes  and 


THE    ROCK    GARDEN  167 

crevices  with  his  compost,  using  a  thin  wooden 
blade,  or  bricklayer's  trowel,  to  probe  them, 
to  ensure  that  the  soil  gets  down  to  the  lowest 
levels.  After  the  first  heavy  shower  of  rain 
he  should  go  over  the  structure  again,  replen- 
ishing the  soil  where  it  has  sunk  in. 

If  of  necessity  he  has  had  to  use  brick  waste 
as  a  substitute  for  rocks,  his  task  will  not  have 
been  so  easy,  for  it  is  not  possible  to  entirely 
disguise  their  character.  Yet  with  a  little 
ingenuity  he  may  secure  a  very  passable  result. 
The  large  masses  will  consist  of  many  bricks 
cemented  together  in  the  burning,  thus  show- 
ing a  decided,  if  rather  artificial,  stratification. 
These  pieces  he  should  place  with  their  longer 
joints  horizontal,  or  at  such  a  slight  tilt  as 
he  may  decide.  He  may  be  tempted  to  so 
place  them  that  their  component  bricks  stand 
on  end,  with  a  view  to  availing  himself  of  the 
crannies  between  them,  but  that  would  be  a 
bad  arrangement,  as  will  be  understood  from 
the  foregoing  considerations. 

There  is  no  need  to  outline  the  back  margin 
of  the  bank  with  rocks.  The  soil  there  may 
just  run  off  into  the  level  of  the  ground. 

When  the  structure  of  soil  and  rock  is  finished 


l68  GARDEN    PLANNING 

the  gravel  floor  of  the  rock  garden  may  be  laid 
in  the  way  directed  for  path  making. 

I  need  hardly  warn  the  reader  against  the 
use  of  water-worn  rock  pieces  which  have  a 
uniform  pebble-like  shape.  I  have  seen  them 
used,  but  only  with  grotesque  effect.  On  the 
other  hand,  a  few  rounded  pebbles  introduced 
along  the  margin  of  the  rock  structure  are  not 
out  of  place,  suggesting,  as  they  do,  an  old 
water-course,  and  serving  to  retain  soil  washed 
down  from  the  higher  levels. 

Planting — No  special  directions  are  needed  for 
the  practical  work  of  putting  the  plants  into  the 
soil.  It  should  be  done  in  the  same  way  as  when 
planting  a  bed  or  border,  and  at  the  same  sea- 
sons according  to  locality.  The  mode  of  con- 
struction I  have  described  ensures  that  there  is 
ample  depth  of  soil. 

Discrimination  should  be  used  in  selecting 
the  plants  for  special  positions.  The  smaller 
subjects  like  sedum,  saxifrage,  and  semper- 
vivum  will  thrive  when  rooted  in  crannies, 
and  some  on  the  porous  surface  of  the  rock 
itself,  as  witness  the  common  house-leek.  A 
few  of  these  plants  may  be  established  at  the 
margin     of     the    rockwork    and     allowed    to 


THE    ROCK    GARDEN  169 

intrude  upon  the  gravel  within  limits.  They 
will  soften  the  hard  line  where  rock  and  gravel 
meet. 

Plants  of  trailing  habit  should  be  put  near 
the  top  of  a  miniature  precipice,  over  which 
they  will  hang  their  flexible  shoots  and  in  due 
course  paint  its  surface  with  brilliant  colour. 

Tall  plants  should  go  mostly  to  the  higher 
levels.  Give  each  plant  elbow-room  to  allow 
for  growth  and  expansion,  but  plant  fully,  so 
that  when  the  plants  are  established  there  shall 
be  little  bare  soil  visible.  Chinks  in  the  vertical 
surfaces  should  not  be  neglected  —  they  will 
carry  their  share  of  plant  life,  if  care  be  taken 
to  insert  the  roots  and  ram  the  soil  well  in 
contact  with  them.  Ferns  will  thrive  in  similar 
places,  and,  preferably,  they  should  be  located 
in  the  shady  corners. 

The  choice  of  plants  is  a  vast  one,  but  it  is 
well  for  the  novice  to  limit  it  at  first  to  the  more 
hardy  kinds,  than  which  he  will  find  none  more 
beautiful. 

At  the  back  of  all,  on  the  topmost  level, 
small  flowering  deciduous  and  evergreen  shrubs 
may  be  associated  with  tall  perennials  like 
starwort  and  snapdragon. 


lyO  GARDEN    PLANNING 

Space  and  means  may  forbid  a  very  ambitious 
effort,  and  it  may  thus  be  necessary  to  confine 
the  rockwork  to  a  single  bank  against  the 
boundary  wall  or  fence.  In  that  event  it  is 
well  to  clothe  the  artificial  background  with 
ivy  or  other  creepers. 

The  rock  garden  should  not  end  abruptly. 
It  is  better  to  let  it  gradually  merge  into  the 
general  surface  of  the  ground,  some  detached 
pieces  of  rock  being  placed  on  the  level  beyond 
the  raised  part  of  the  rock  garden,  just  as  we 
should  find  in  nature.  Many  alpine  plants 
will  thrive  perfectly  well  on  the  level,  if  they 
are  protected  from  the  encroachment  of  coarser 
plants.  Thus  these  outlying  rock  pieces 
may  be  enshrined  in  masses  of  phlox,  aubri- 
etia,  or  dianthus,  which,  unconstrained  by  any 
rocky  limits,  will  spread  into  wide  cushions  of 
colour. 

Learn  to  know  your  plants  by  sight  and  don't 
label  them.  The  appearance  of  a  labelled  rock 
garden  in  the  spring,  before  the  plants  have  put 
forward  their  foliage,  is  depressing,  and 
reminiscent  of  the  auction  room. 

Wall  Gardens  —  Nature  has  shown  us  how 
she  can  clothe  an  old  wall  mth  her  treasures, 


THE    ROCK    GARDEN  I7I 

and  the  plants  thus  naturally  established  often 
display  a  charming  habit  in  adapting  themselves 
to  their  artificial  home.  Who  has  not  seen  a 
ruined  wall  topped  with  pinks,  or  with  snap- 
dragon, toadflax,  and  sedum,  or  hung  with  the 
charming  grey  foHage  and  glistening  white  flowers 
of  cerastium?  To  imitate  this  is  not  difficult, 
but  we  require  the  right  kind  of  wall;  not  the 
new,  neatly  pointed  red  brick  affair,  but  a 
thing  of  cracks,  crevices,  and  crannies,  such  as 
we  find  enclosing  some  old  country  garden. 
Given  this,  the  rest  is  easy.  We  have  only  to 
rub  some  fine  soil  into  the  chinks  and  to  sow  the 
seed  of  such  plants  as  we  desire,  covering  them 
up  with  soil  to  prevent  the  birds  abstracting 
them,  and  in  due  course  we  shall  have  our 
colony  of  alpines. 

If  no  wall  exists,  then  we  must  build  one, 
and  in  doing  so  we  may  make  provision  for 
as  much  plant  life  as  we  please.  The  wall 
may  be  of  concrete,  rubble,  rough  stone,  or 
old  bricks.  Of  these,  perhaps  the  best  are  the 
last  three,  though  with  bricks,  unless  ample 
spaces  are  left  between  them,  there  would  be 
difficulty  in  finding  sufficient  lodgment  for 
the  plants.     Stone  and  rubble,  using  irregular 


172  GARDEN    PLANNING 

blocks,  would  give  opportunity  for  earth  pockets 
and  crevices  of  various  sizes.  There  should 
be  no  pointing,  and  only  so  much  mortar  used 
as  is  necessary  to  secure  stability.  Large 
spaces  may  be  filled  with  the  compost  recom- 
mended for  the  rock  garden  and  then  sown. 
The  smaller  crevices  may  be  filled  with  soil 
mixed  with  the  seeds.  The  sowing  should 
be  done  in  the  autumn. 


CHAPTER  XII 

The  Rose  Garden 

In  a  small  garden  there  is  nothing  to  be 
gained  by  providing  a  separate  place  for  the 
roses;  on  the  contrary,  they  may  be  freely 
associated  with  the  other  flowers  In  bed  and 
border  with  the  best  effect. 

Just  why  it  became  the  practice  In  days 
gone  by  to  give  the  roses  a  department  to 
themselves  is  not  clear,  though  there  seems 
to  have  been  some  Idea  that  the  rose  standard 
did  not  harmonize  with  plants  of  bushy  habit. 
In  the  present  day  no  such  consideration  pre- 
vails, and  gardeners  do  not  hesitate  to  admit 
the  rose  into  every  part  of  the  garden. 

We  cannot  have  too  many  roses,  and  there 
is  no  position  where  they  are  out  of  place.  The 
walls  and  fences  deserve  their  share.  The 
house  walls  are  never  so  beautiful  as  when 
clothed  with  healthy  and  prolific  climbers. 
In  the  shrubbery  they  help  to  redeem  the 
173 


174  GARDEN    PLANNING 

masses  of  monotonous  green  foliage.  On  the 
lawn,  as  standards  or  pillars,  they  add  a  wel- 
come note  of  colour,  and  in  beds  and  borders 
they  contribute  their  quota  to  the  general 
effect.  Even  as  hedges,  roses  have  their  use, 
and  for  arches,  pergolas,  and  festoons  no  more 
charming  climbers  are  available.  Pegged  down, 
or  trained  over  the  beams  of  a  pergola,  they 
make  glorious  masses  of  flower  and  foliage. 

I  have  written  enough  to  show  that  the 
rose  has  no  claim  to  be  kept  in  a  place  by  itself, 
yet  this  does  not  imply  that  the  rose  garden 
is  necessarily  a  superfluity  where  ample  space 
exists.  Indeed,  there  is  something  extremely 
attractive  in  a  well-planned  rose  garden.  It 
is  a  practical  token  of  homage  to  the  queen 
of  flowers,  and  it  demonstrates  that  the  rose, 
before  all  other  flowers,  can  be  grown  in  a 
place  by  itself  without  producing  a  monotonous 
effect.  This  follows  from  its  variety  in  form, 
colour,  and  foliage. 

A  sunny  site  should  be  selected  for  the  rose 
garden,  and,  following  ancient  usage,  we  cannot 
do  better  than  lay  it  out  formally.  I  am  no 
advocate  of  a  formal  garden  in  its  severest 
mood,   but   formality   is    not   the   product  of 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN  I75 

shape  alone  in  the  garden  details,  as  I  have 
elsewhere  shown.  I  can  conceive  of  beds  and 
borders  of  informal  outline  treated  quite  for- 
mally in  the  planting  and  accessories.  I  can- 
not imagine  any  benefit  to  the  roses  from 
planting  them  anyhow.  We  know  little  of 
the  rose  in  a  state  of  nature,  for  our  garden 
roses  are  mostly  a  product  of  the  nurseryman's 
art.  They  are  perhaps  the  most  artificial  of 
all  flowers. 

We  shall  not  therefore  be  In  danger  of  out- 
raging good  taste  if  we  make  our  rose  garden 
on  formal  lines,  by  which  I  mean  if  we  plan 
It  on  a  symmetrical  basis. 

The  most  common  method  Is  to  cut  the  rose 
beds  in  grass,  and  there  Is  much  to  be  said 
in  favour  of  grass  as  a  setting  for  our  roses. 
In  evolving  a  design  it  Is  well  to  observe  certain 
points  now  to  be  mentioned.  The  beds  should 
not  be  elaborate  in  outline  nor  too  small.  The 
groups  should  show  a  geometrical  relation  be- 
tween their  component  beds  In  the  way  I 
have  advised  for  groups  of  flower  beds  generally. 

The  Illustration  (Fig.  46)  shows  typical 
rose  gardens  as  I  might  plan  them  on  a  grass 
space,  and  It  should  be  noted  that  the  outlying 


176 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


'Ml  ^ 

p  f^i  ® 

u  t^j^.   ^ 

O 


Fig.  46. —  Rose  beds  in  grass        Fig.  47. —  Rose  beds  in  gravel 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN  1 77 

borders  give  a  sense  of  enclosure  and  sanctity 
to  the  whole  arrangement,  which  may  be 
enhanced  by  planting  their  outer  lines  with 
standards  or  pillars. 

The  introduction  of  arches  at  suitable  points 
is  an  excellent  device  for  obtaining  height. 

The  necessary  shelter  in  exposed  situations 
may  be  contrived  by  the  use  of  rose  or  sweet- 
brier  hedges,  or  of  roses  trained  upon  a  skele- 
ton fence. 

It  is  not  unusual  to  carry  a  path  through 
the  rose  garden,  or  to  set  it  where  two  paths 
intersect  at  right  angles.  The  point  of  inter- 
section is  sometimes  marked  by  a  sundial  or 
vase.  When  a  path  or  paths  lead  into  the  rose 
garden,  the  beds  may  be  separated  by  gravel, 
thereby  excluding  grass  altogether. 

Such  gardens  are  shown  In  the  accompany- 
ing illustration  (Fig.  47).  I  have  no  quarrel 
with  that  arrangement,  and  it  may  be  made 
dainty  and  trim  by  the  use  of  neatly  clipped 
box  edgings.  One  loses,  however,  the  delight- 
ful background  an  emerald  turf  supplies. 

There  is  no  reason  why  the  rose  garden  should 
take  a  shape  having  equal  dimensions  both 
ways.  It  may  be  long  and  narrow,  and  I  am  not 


178  GARDEN    PLANNING 

sure  that  that  is  not  the  best  form,  especially 
when  space  is  restricted.  It  can  be  better 
brought  into  harmony  with  the  adjacent  parts 
of  the  garden.  As  a  walk,  too,  it  is  less  tedious 
to  traverse. 

Roses  make  considerable  demands  upon  the 

|^•n^    uM.iiiiiiiin        1111.1    1    i    n   ..ihhiij mi  iii^UI 


I  Fig.  48. —  A  long  rose  garden  | 

soil,  and  therefore  rose  beds  and  borders 
should  be  deeply  trenched  in  the  first  in- 
stance, and  treated  liberally  with  manure.  The 
common  impression  that  clay  soil  is  essential 
for  roses  is  not  altogether  correct.  They  will 
thrive  in  almost  any  soiL  provided  they  are 
well  supplied  with  fertilizing  matter.  In  light 
soils  the  manure  we  give  them  is  not  retained 
so  long  as  in  heavy  soil,  and  thus,  under  care- 
less culture,  they  may  suffer  starvation.  For 
this  reason,  if  the  soil  is  sandy  and  light,  it  is 
well  to  add  a  proportion  of  heavier  material 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN  1 79 

to  give  it  tenacity  and  retentive  quality,  and 
in  manuring  to  use  cow  manure.  If  the  garden 
is  made  upon  turf,  then  dig  in  the  sods,  and 
add  any  other  decaying  vegetable  matter  you 
may  have  available. 

On  heavy  land  it  may  be  necessary  to  drain 
the  rose  bed.  This  may  be  done  by  throwing 
out  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  three  feet,  adding 
nine  inches  of  rubble  or  brick  rubbish,  and  then 
filling  up  with  soil.  In  such  ease  it  is  well 
to  bring  the  level  of  the  beds  well  above  that 
of  the  ground.  Thorough  preparation  of  the 
rose  bed  is  the  surest  guarantee  of  future 
success. 

Planting  should  be  done  in  the  autumn, 
preferably  between  mid-October  and  the  end 
of  November,  though  it  may  be  done  later 
if  the  winter  be  open. 

The  operation  of  plantmg  cannot  be  too 
carefully  conducted.  Holes  ^should  be  dug 
of  ample  size,  with  the  bottom  formed  dome- 
shaped  to  facilitate  arranging  the  roots. 

These  should  be  separated  and  distributed 
radially  over  the  bottom  of  the  hole.  Fine 
soil  should  then  be  placed  over  the  rootlets, 
moving  the  stem  of  the  plant  up  and  down 


i8o 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


to  allow  it  to  penetrate  among  them.  The 
remainder  of  the  soil  may  then  be  added  and 
firmly  rammed  down.  It  should  not  be  heaped 
round  the  stem,  but  left  slightly  depressed 
so  as  to  facilitate  watering.  It  would  appear 
that  there  is  little  to  be 
gained  by  care  in  spread- 
ing the  roots,  experiments 
showing  that  careless  plant- 
ing is  equally  favourable  to 
the  plant.  Be  that  as  it 
may,  there  is  no  doubt 
that  the  care  devoted  to 
arranging  the  roots  as 
widely  spread  as  possible 
at  the  foot  of  the  hole 
Fig.  49.-Pianti„g  a  rose  Tcuders  exccllcnt  servicc  in 
bebw"fhrg'"un^^Lr7rci"(B"  anchoriug  the  plant  to  the 
Then  prune  at  c.  soil,  enabling  it  the  better 

to  withstand  the  buffeting  of  the  wind.  If  no 
rain  follows  planting,  it  is  advisable  to  give 
some  water  about  a  week  after,  and  a  mulch- 
ing of  manure  may  then  be  put  around  each 
plant  to  afford  protection  from  frost. 

Roses  must  not  be  crowded  together  too 
closely.     Standards   should  not  be  less  than 


THE    ROSE    GARDEN  l8l' 

three  feet  apart,  and  bushes  not  less  than  one 
and  a  half  to  two  feet. 

I  question  whether  It  is  ever  desirable  to  use 
standards  of  greater  height  than  three  feet. 
The  lanky,  bent  specimens  one  sees  occasion- 
ally pointing  skyward  are  truly  ugly,  and  have 
no  raison  d'etre. 

Standards  look  better  in  groups  than  in 
single  file,  though  the  latter  arrangement 
may  sometimes  be  desirable  when  it  is  intended 
to  introduce  a  well-marked  line. 

The  disposition  of  the  plants  in  a  rose  garden 
is  largely  a  matter  of  taste.  With  many  beds 
to  fill,  we  may  devote  each  bed  to  several 
roses  of  the  same  colour  or  kind,  and  thus  get 
our  colour  effect  in  masses.  On  the  other 
hand,  with  a  less  elaborate  garden,  contrasting 
or  harmonizing  colours  may  be  associated 
together  in  the  same  bed  or  border.  The 
range  of  colour  in  roses  is  so  great  and  so  har- 
monious that  one  can  hardly  make  a  mistake, 
except  perhaps  in  associating  the  magenta- 
tinted  varieties  with  reds  and  pinks  of  purer 
hue.  The  former,  carrying  as  they  do  a  note 
of  blue,  go  better  side  by  side  with  whites 
and  yellows.     The  presence    of    too  large   a 


l82  GARDEN    PLANNING 

proportion  of  whites  is  to  be  condemned,  as 
they  tell  more  strongly  in  the  picture  than 
coloured  varieties. 

China  roses,  with  their  dwarf  habit,  beautiful 
foliage,  and  brilliant  colours,  should  not  be 
overlooked.  They  may  be  used  in  beds  by 
themselves,  in  the  front  part  of  the  borders, 
or  between  standards  where  the  climate  allows. 

Much  more  is  to  be  said  about  roses,  for  which 
there  is  not  room  here;  and  the  reader  specially 
interested  had  better  turn  to  "The  Amateur's 
Book  of  Roses  and  How  to  Grow  Them. " 


CHAPTER  XIII 

Water  in  the  Garden 

There  is  something  so  delightful  in  the  living, 
moving  presence  of  water  in  the  landscape 
that  gardeners  may  be  excused  their  desire 
to  introduce  it  into  their  flower  ground.  Yet 
in  a  garden  of  limited  size  it  should  be  recog- 
nized that  the  effect  which  appeals  to  us  amidst 
natural  surroundings  is  practically  unrealizable. 
At  the  same  time  the  conditions  may  be  such 
that  water  can  be  introduced  without  appearing 
to  be  too  artificial  a  feature.  This  applies 
particularly  to  gardens  bounded  by  a  natural 
stream  or  through  which  such  a  stream  passes. 

When  the  water  has  to  be  derived  from  the 
domestic  supply  and  contained  in  artificial 
ponds  it  is  a  different  matter.  But  even  then 
it  may  be  possible  to  avoid  offence  provided 
the  gardener  contents  himself  with  simple 
arrangements.  Any  sense  of  artificiality  that 
may  arise  can  be  counteracted  by  the  inherent 
183 


184  GARDEN    PLANNING 

interest  in  luxuriant  water  growth  and  the 
delightful  blooms  we  get  from  such  purely 
aquatic  plants  as  water-lilies  and  lotus. 

It  may,  however,  be  stated  at  the  outset 
that  the  making  of  a  water  garden  is  a  simple 
matter  compared  with  its  efficient  maintenance. 
No  gardener  should  lightly  embark  upon  the 
task  unless  he  is  prepared  to  give  unremitting 
attention  to  his  water  plants  and  to  their 
artificial  homes.  This  implies  frequent  chang- 
ing of  water  and  cleansing  of  ponds. 

In  town  and  suburban  gardens  organic 
matter,  dead  leaves,  and  other  undesirable 
things  are  wafted  by  the  wind  or  fall  upon  the 
water  surface,  where  they  remain  to  decay 
and  defile  the  water. 

When  a  running  stream  is  available,  these 
drawbacks  operate  less  prejudicially,  though 
they  are  not  altogether  absent. 

I  shall  first  consider  the  case  of  a  garden 
bounded  by  a  stream  at  its  far  end.  We  may 
assume  that  the  water  is  pure  enough  for  our 
purpose.  The  probability  is  that  the  gardener 
would  have  no  rights  over  the  water,  but  also 
that  no  objection  would  exist  to  his  diverting 
some  of   it  through  his   garden.     In   such  an 


WATER    IN    THE    GARDEN  1 85 

event  he  might  excavate  a  backwater,  say  with 
an  extension  in  the  form  of  a  bay,  as  shown 
in  the  illustration  (Fig.  50). 

By  this  means  he  would  obtain  a  piece  of 
running  water  (A),  and  a  piece  (B)  more  or 
less  stagnant,  but 
not  so  stagnant  as  to 
require  any  special 
device  for  changing 
it.  The  depth  need 
not  exceed  eighteen 
inches.  The  island 
C  would  be  useful 
for  treatment  with 
bold  waterside 
plants,  and  the  mar- 
gins of  the  back- 
water and  pond 
could  accommodate 
others  of  less  sturdy  growth.  Clear  spaces 
should  be  left  for  access  to  the  water's  edge  and 
to  permit  of  the  plants  being  seen.  A  small 
collection  of  dwarf  hybrid  nympheas  may  be 
established  In  the  pond  B  and  in  the  backwater, 
with  which  might  be  associated  our  common 
native  pond  lily.    Other  plants  may  be  added  If 


Fig.  50. —  A  water  garden 


1 86  GARDEN    PLANNING 

space  permits,  including  such  interesting  sub- 
jects as  the  pickerel  weed,  the  flowering  rush, 
and  water  buttercup.  Typha  and  swamp  mal- 
low might  be  planted  along  the  fence  line 
at  B. 

Irises  will  thrive  at  the  margin  of  the  water, 
as  well  as  such  favourite  flowers  as  phlox, 
trollius,  spirea,  and  a  host  of  others.  With  very 
little  trouble  in  the  making  and  common-sense 
management,  a  piece  of  water  of  this  kind  could 
be  made  a  source  of  perennial  interest.  When  all 
is  complete  and  the  plants  are  established  it 
would  only  remain  to  keep  the  entrances  clear 
and  to  remove  all  rubbish  which  might  find 
access  to  the  water.  No  deciduous  trees  or 
shrubs  should  be  placed  near  the  water,  for 
reasons  already  explained. 

A  water  system  of  this  kind  might  be  wedded 
to  a  rock  garden  with  a  good  effect. 

In  excavating  the  water  bed  the  sides  should 
slope  gently  to  the  edge,  or  trouble  will  ensue 
by  the  banks  breaking  away  and  fouling  the 
water.  This  also  ensures  that  the  soil  is  water- 
logged for  some  distance  from  the  water's 
edge,  and  is  therefore  in  a  condition  for  sup- 
porting a  colony  of  semi-aquatic  plants. 


WATER    IN    THE    GARDEN  1 87 

When    a    stream    intersects    the    garden,    a 
rather  more  ambitious  effort  is  possible. 

The  general  treatment  should  be  such  as 
to  considerably  expand  the  water  area,  and 
this  may  be  done  by  adopting  an  arrangement 
like  that  illustrated  in  Fig.  51,  in  which  a 
lily  pond  is  made  in 
that  part  of  the 
garden  beyond  the 
brook,  having  inlet 
and  outlet,  thus  se- 
curing a  water  cir- 
culation. Bays 
should  be  formed  on 
the  near  side.  Com- 
munication across 
the  stream  may  be 
by     means     of     a 

simple      bridge,       or  F»g-  si-— A  water  garden 

stepping-stones  if  the  water  is  shallow. 
The  gardener  should  resist  the  temptation 
to  give  a  "rustic"  character  to  his  bridge. 
It  should  be  a  plain  affair,  well  and  firmly 
built,  as  befits  its  purpose,  and  provided 
with  a  hand-rail  on  either  side.  What  has 
been  written  in  regard  to  making  and  plant- 


1 88  GARDEN    PLANNING 

ing  in  the  previous  case  applies  to  this  one 
also.  As  water  gardening  is  never  likely 
to  engage  the  attention  of  more  than  a  minority 
of  gardeners  I  need  not  multiply  examples. 
The  hints  I  have  already  given  will  prove  suffi- 
ciently instructive  to  those  who  may  wish  to 
avail  themselves  of  the  possibilities  of  a  stream 
accessible  from  the  garden. 

I  shall  now  refer  to  a  type  of  water  garden 
which  is  frankly  artificial  and  depends  for  its 
water  supply  on  the  kitchen  tap  or  the  pump. 
This  last  condition  demands  that  we  should 
study  economy  of  water,  and  that  can  best 
be  done  by  devising  what  I  may  call  a  cir- 
culating system. 

The  first  consideration  will  be  the  planning 
of  the  ponds  (for  such  they  are)  and  in  that  we 
must  be  guided  by  the  levels  in  our  garden  and 
our  desires  in  the  matter  of  water  area. 

If  there  is  a  distinct  slope  in  the  garden 
surface,  so  much  the  better;  it  will  help  us 
to  a  simple  arrangement  for  running  off  the 
water,  as  must  be  done  from  time  to  time 
to  keep  our  ponds  clean  and  their  tenants 
in  healthy  condition. 

The  waste  or  overflow  from  the   pond  or 


WATER    IN    THE    GARDEN  1 89 

series  of  ponds  must  be  provided  for,  and  when 
the  garden  slopes  toward  the  house  the  most 
convenient  way  is  to  carry  it  into  a  gully  in 


'^-  '^H  ^:  '^^■i'-^  •'  ^i''^' 


Fig.  52. —  Soak-away  drain 

connection  with  the  house  drainage  system. 
When  the  slope  is  in  a  contrary  direction  the 
best  expedient  is  to  make  a  "soak-away" 
drain,  as  shown  in  the  illustration  (Fig.  52). 
This  is  merely  a  pit  sunk  in  the  soil  and  filled 
with  rubble,  into  which  the  overflow  pipe  is 
conducted. 

The  ponds  must  be  constructed  with  an 
impervious  bottom,  say  by  the  use  of  cement 
or  concrete. 


190  GARDEN    PLANNING 

Fig.  53  shows  both  the  mode  of  forming 
the  bottom  and  of  building  up  the  sides,  and 
calls  for  little  by  way  of  description.  If  rock 
or  rubble  sides  are  used,  as  in  D,  they 
must  be  built  in  cement,  care  being  taken  to 
make  the  joints  watertight.  The  floor  may 
then  be  made  with  six  or  eight  inches  of  con- 
crete, faced  with  cement.  The  surface  should 
not  be  finished  to  a  dead  level,  but  should  h  ave 


Fig-  S3- — Ponds 

a  slight  fall  toward   the  outlet,  to   facilitate 
running  off  the  water. 

If  the  pond  sides  are  built  of  cement,  C 
must  be  followed,  making  the  edges  battered, 
and  finishing  them  neatly  at  top  with  a  rounded 
nosing,  which  can  be  done  with  a  former  of 


WATER    IN    THE    GARDEN  I9I 

wood  like  that  illustrated.  Fresh  cement 
of  good  quality  should  be  used,  tempered  with 
a  third  part  of  sharp  sand. 

Pipes  for  inlets  and  outlets  should  be  inserted 
when  the  sides  of  the  pond  are  being  made.  If 
a  single  pond  is  installed  it  will  only  be  neces- 
sary to  carry  a  waste-pipe  from  its  bottom  to 
the  drain.  This  should  be  done  in  a  straight 
line,  if  possible,  to  facilitate  unstopping  in  case 
of  obstruction.  The  most  suitable  piping 
Is  iron  gas  pipe  of  not  less  internal  diameter 
than  one  and  a  half  inches.  A  plug  must  be 
provided  to  close  the  inlet,  and  this  may  be 
a  simple  cone  of  wood  fitted  to  the  bore  of 
the  pipe. 

When  two  or  more  ponds  are  made,  they 
should  be  connected  by  piping  into  a  single 
system,  the  waste-pipe  connecting  the  one 
nearest  the  drain  to  it. 

If  all  ponds  stand  at  the  same  level,  the 
connecting  pipes  may  enter  and  leave  at  the 
bottom,  but  if  the  levels  are  stepped,  as  would 
be  the  case  on  sloping  ground,  the  overflow 
from  each  pond  to  the  next  lower  one  of  the 
series  must  be  placed  at  the  water-line,  other- 
wise the  water  would  all  flow  to  the  lowest 


192  GARDEN    PLANNING 

pond.  This  point  is  made  clear  in  the  dia- 
grams A  and  B.  The  filling  up  and  renewal 
of  the  water  may  be  done  conveniently  with 
the  garden  hose. 

Although  I  have  applied  the  term  "cir- 
culating system"  to  the  arrangements  just 
described,  it  should  be  understood  that  they 
are  not  adapted  to  ensure  a  constant  move- 
ment of  water,  which  is  quite  unnecesly 
sary.  Water-lilies  will  thrive  in  perfectly 
stagnant  water  which  has  not  been  changed 
for  months,  but  it  is  neither  wholesome 
nor  pleasant  to  allow  the  same  water 
to  remain  in  the  ponds  indefinitely. 
Hence  the  usefulness  of  some  means  for 
running  off  the  foul  water  and  refilling  with 
fresh. 

When  the  gardener  has  done  his  work,  he 
should  fill  the  ponds,  mark  the  water-level, 
and  allow  them  to  stand  for  a  week,  noting 
whether  there  is  any  leakage,  which  would 
show  itself  by  a  drop  in  the  surface  level. 
If  all  is  satisfactory,  the  water  may  be 
run  off  and  the  ponds  will  be  ready  for 
planting. 

The  end  of  May  is  the  best  time  for  planting 


WATER    IN    THE    GARDEN  I93 

the    hardy    nympheas.     The    soil    may    be    a 
compost  consisting  of: 

Pond  mud 2  parts 

Loam I  part 

Leaf-mould i  part 

Road  scrapings     .      .      .      .  i  part 

If  the  first  ingredient  cannot  be  obtained 
it  may  be  omitted  and  double  the  quantities  of 
loam  and  leaf-mould  substituted. 

A  layer  of  drainage  material  (broken  tile 
or  brick  rubbish)  should  be  spread  upon  the 
pond  floor,  on  which  the  compost  should 
be  heaped  to  the  water-level  height  at  the 
points  where  the  plants  are  to  be  placed. 
The  water  may  then  be  admitted  and 
allowed  to  stand  for  a  couple  of  days 
to  assume  the  temperature  of  the  atmos- 
phere. The  plants  may  then  be  inserted  in 
their  mounds,  which  by  this  time  will  have 
settled  down  considerably  below  the  water- 
level. 

The  water  may  be  run  off  and  renewed  at 
fortnightly  intervals,  or  even  less  often  if  it 
shows  no  tendency  to  become  fouled.  Twice 
a  year  the  ponds  must  be  thoroughly  cleansed 
to  remove  decayed  vegetable   matter,   leaves 


194  GARDEN    PLANNING 

and  rubbish  which  are  certain  to  accumulate 
at  the  bottom. 

The  introduction  of  animal  life  is  useful 
in  restraining  undesirable  vegetable  growth, 
water-snails  particularly.  Goldfish  will  do  well 
even  under  somewhat  unfavourable  conditions 
of  stagnation,  and  are  equally  useful  for  the 
purpose. 

The  matter-of-fact  gardener  may  question 
whether  all  this  trouble  is  worth  while  for  the 
purpose  of  growing  a  few  water  plants.  I 
think  it  is.  Indeed,  the  sight  of  only  three  or 
four  good,  healthy  water-lilies  in  flower  in 
one's  own  garden  is  sufficiently  interesting 
to  constitute  ample  recompense  for  some  small 
initial  trouble  and  outlay,  and  the  enthusiastic 
flower-lover  will  not  grudge  the  subsequent 
labour  of  tending  them. 

I  know  one  such  person  who  grows  a  col- 
lection of  miniature  nympheas  in  tubs  sunk 
in  the  ground  with  most  gratifying  success. 
Where  space  is  limited  his  example  may  be 
followed.  The  best  plan  is  to  excavate  a 
deep  hole,  say  twice  the  depth  of  the  tub, 
and  to  fill  the  bottom  with  rubble,  so.that  when 
the  tub  is  bedded  upon  it  the  rim  will  stand 


WATER    IN    THE    GARDEN  I95 

just  above  the  level  of  the  ground.  A  centre- 
bit  hole  must  be  made  in  the  bottom  of  the 
tub  and  fitted  with  a  plug  long  enough  to  give 
a  good  hand-hold.  A  piece  of  perforated 
zinc  should  be  nailed  over  the  hole  at  its  under 
side,  to  prevent  coarse  debris  running  through 
and  choking  the  drainage  material  below. 
These  expedients,  simple  enough  to  put  into 
practice,  are  all  that  is  necessary  to  provide 
for  an  occasional  change  of  water. 


Fig.  54. — Tub  for  water  plants' 

The  hard  circular  outline  of  the  tub  is  the 
only  objection  on  the  score  of  appearance. 
The  best  way  to  mask  it  is  to  pack  some  boggy 
soil  around  and  between  the  tubs,  and  to  grow 
in  it  small  water-side  plants,  which,  if  suitably 


196  GARDEN    PLANNING 

chosen,  will  spread  over  the  rims  and  hide 
their  outline,  without  unduly  excluding  light 
and  air  from  the  water  plants. 

If  possible  rain-water  should  be  used.  The 
nympheas  particularly  are  intolerant  of  hard 
water.  When  introducing  fresh  water  it  should 
be  run  in  slowly  if  it  is  sensibly  colder  than  the 
atmosphere,  otherwise  the  plants  may  be  chilled 
and  checked  in  their  growth. 

It  is  quite  easy  for  the  supply  to  dribble 
in  from  a  hose,  the  waste  plug  being  loosened 
to  permit  the  foul  water  to  escape  slowly  at 
the  same  time.  Besides  the  nympheas  there 
are  many  other  interesting  if  not  as  conspicu- 
ously beautiful  plants  that  may  be  grown 
in  the  water  garden.  The  calla  has  already 
been  mentioned,  and  is  perhaps  best  kept 
in  the  water  garden.  The  lotus  has  a  rich 
tropical  effect,  and  is  best  planted  in  a  tile  con- 
tainer as  its  roots  spread  through  the  soil,  into 
the  surrounding  ground.  The  English  arrow- 
head is  a  bold,  handsome,  and  desirable  plant. 
Typha — the  reed-mace  (commonly  called  "bull- 
rush") — is  easily  estabhshed,  and  the  native 
yellow  flag,  though  only  semiaquatic,  will  thrive 
in  shallow  water  on  a  deep  bed  of  soil. 


CHAPTER  XIV 
The  Vegetable  Garden 

The  owner  of  a  small  plot,  who  loves  his 
flowers  and  values  a  completely  artistic  general 
effect  in  his  garden,  is  usually  content  to  leave 
vegetables  alone.  In  town  and  suburban 
gardens  I  think  he  is  well  advised,  because  the 
atmospheric  conditions  may  not  be  favourable 
to  the  growth  of  culinary  plants  in  that  state 
of  cleanliness  which  fits  them  for  food. 

But,  leaving  this  consideration  out  of  the 
question,  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  results 
are  commensurate  with  the  trouble  involved, 
when  you  can  buy  good  vegetables  cheaply. 

I  would  say  nothing  to  deter  the  enthusiast 
from  taking  up  vegetable  culture  if  his  tastes 
lie  in  that  direction.  It  is  as  interesting  to 
some  people  to  grow  a  cabbage  as  a  chrysan- 
themum. 

There  are  gardens  and  gardens,  and,  given 
a  pure  atmosphere  and  sufficient  space,  the 

197 


198  GARDEN    PLANNING 

vegetable  garden  may  find  its  legitimate  place 
and  usefulness.  The  reader  who  has  studied 
the  general  principles  I  have  applied  to  the 
designing  of  a  flower  garden  will  have  noted 
that  I  advocate  placing  the  principal  flower 
borders  near  the  north  boundary,  wherever 
that  may  come,  and  that  I  gave  good  reasons 
for  running  the  principal  path  alongside  or 
between  them.  Generally  this  path  starts 
from  the  house  and  terminates  somewhere 
at  the  remote  end  of  the  garden.  If  the  vege- 
table ground  Is  to  occupy  its  usual  place  at 
the  end  of  the  plot,  the  main  path  may  con- 
tinue   into   and    through    it.      On    the   other 


Fig.  55. —  Borders  through  a  vegetable  garden 

hand.  It  may  be  more  convenient  to  approach 
the  vegetable  plot   by  an  offshoot  from  the 


THE    VEGETABLE    GARDEN  I99 

main  path.  In  either  case  I  advocate  the  use 
of  a  device  to  which  I  have  already  referred. 
This  consists  in  continuing  the  flower  borders 
on  both  sides  of  the  path  through  the  vege- 
table plot,  in  the  way  shown  in  the  illustration. 

The  result  is  to  extend  the  principal  garden 
vista  In  length,  thus  increasing  the  sense  of 
space,  and,  at  the  same  time,  to  screen,  more 
or  less,  the  part  devoted  to  vegetables. 

It  is  true  that  these  borders  absorb  a  certain 
amount  of  space,  but  that  must  be  allowed  for 
in  fixing  the  dimensions  of  the  vegetable  plot. 
To  complete  the  scheme  it  only  remains  to 
add  a  transverse  hedge  or  other  barrier  at  the 
near  end  of  the  vegetable  plot  and  the  thing 
is  done.  These  supplementary  borders,  if 
preferred,  may  be  reserved  for  flowers  intended 
for  cutting,  and  some  part  for  raising  seedlings, 
striking  cuttings,  and  other  utilitarian  purposes. 

I  have  in  mind  a  charming  suburban  garden 
arranged  in  this  way,  in  which  the  kitchen 
plot  with  its  borders  of  bold  perennials,  backed 
by  espaliers,  and  edged  with  herbs,  is  not  the 
least  interesting  part  of  the  garden. 

But  there  are  many  other  touches  the  gar- 
dener  may  give   to   his   vegetable  ground   to 


200  GARDEN    PLANNING 

bring  it  into  harmony  with  the  garden  as  a 
whole.  A  bower-like  structure  can  be  made 
to  support  a  colony  of  scarlet  runners,  whose 
coral  flowers  will  give  a  piquant  note  of  colour 
to  an  uninteresting  corner,  the  while  it  provides 
the  gardener  with  succulent  food.  The  bold, 
handsome  foliage  of  the  rhubarb,  and  the 
rambling  growth  of  the  vegetable  marrow  are 
good  to  look  upon,  and  did  they  not  contribute 
to  our  table  they  would  assuredly  be  grown 
for  their  beauty  alone.  And  what  is  more 
graceful  than  the  fairy  foliage  of  the  asparagus  ? 
Bearing  these  points  in  mind,  therefore,  the 
gardener  may  make  picturesque  capital  out 
of  his  kitchen  garden  tenants  if  he  is  careful 
to  dispose  them  to  advantage.  I  do  not  wish 
it  to  be  understood,  however,  that  any  steps 
taken  in  that  direction  are  to  be  in  opposition 
to  the  common-sense  principles  of  vegetable 
culture. 

The  gardener  with  a  heart  attuned  to  vege- 
tables will  find  places  for  a  few  fruit  trees, 
which  are  always  useful  in  the  garden  picture. 
The  abundant  blossom  of  his  cherry,  apple, 
and  plum  trees  is  a  valuable  asset  at  a  time  of 
year  when  flowers  are  scarce,  when  the  borders 


THE    VEGETABLE    GARDEN  20I 

have  scarcely  awakened  from  their  winter 
sleep.  What  is  more  beautiful  than  a  spray 
of  rose-flecked  apple  blossom  arching  the 
path,  or,  later,  the  sun-kissed  fruit  showing 
its  ruddy  spheres  amidst  the  darkening  foliage? 

And  if  the  flower  garden  is  to  invade  the 
vegetable  plot,  why  not  the  converse?  Fruit 
trees  upon  the  grass  plot  have  just  as  much 
value  as  the  che  tnut  or  laburnum,  both  for 
flower  and  shade,  and  against  a  north  wall 
they  will  cover  much  uninteresting  brick  and 
mortar,  and  yield  their  crop  without  detracting 
from  the  usefulness  of  the  border  for  flower- 
growing. 

Even  the  boundary  hedge  between  flower 
and  vegetable  plot  may  be  made  of  espaliers, 
or  such  easily  trained  fruit  bushes  as  logan- 
berry, wine-berry,  and  blackberry. 

The  gardener  of  resource  will  find  no  diffi- 
culty in  putting  these  hints  into  practice. 
There  is  nothing  new  in  them.  The  associa- 
tion of  flowers  and  vegetables  in  the  kitchen 
garden  was  common  in  the  walled-in  gardens 
of  a  century  ago;  but  the  practice  was  not 
introduced  with  quite  the  same  objects  as 
those  here  detailed,  because  in  those  days  the 


202  GARDEN    PLANNING 

vegetable  ground  was  a  thing  by  itself,  and 
no  one  thought  of  blending  it  with  the  flower 
ground. 

Apart,  however,  from  this  question  of  har- 
monizing the  two  main  departments  of  the 
garden,  I  would  advance  the  plea  for  neatness, 
order,  and  picturesque  effect  in  the  kitchen 
garden.  The  soil  should  be  constrained  by- 
edgings  to  keep  it  off  the  paths,  and  for  this 
purpose  there  is  possibly  no  better  material 
than  ordinary  builder's  bricks  laid  on  edge. 
Just  inside  the  brick  line  a  row  of  parsley 
plants  will  make  a  fresh,  massy,  green  band, 
and  elsewhere  the  other  herbs  may  help  to 
outline  the  garden  divisions  and  give  finish 
to  the  beds;  at  the  same  time  all  will  be  con- 
veniently accessible. 

Let  us  now  look  into  the  more  practical 
details  of  the  kitchen  garden  design.  It  is 
good  practice  to  subdivide  the  plots  into 
separate  beds  with  narrow  paths  between, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  55.  Such  beds  may  have 
dimensions  determined  by  the  space  available 
and  by  the  owner's  intentions  as  regards  the 
crops  to  be  grown. 

In  a  small  vegetable  ground  annexed  to  a 


THE    VEGETABLE    GARDEN  2O3 

garden  of  the  size  under  consideration,  a  width 
of  twelve  feet  in  most  cases  would  be  a  good 
dimension  to  adopt,  the  length  of  the  bed 
running  transversely  and  being  determined 
by  the  width  of  the  ground  from  path  to 
boundary  fence.  The  transverse  paths  need 
not  be  more  than  eighteen  inches  wide,  and  may 
be  of  cinder,  if  no  better  material  is  available. 
The  object  is  to  give  easy  access  to  the  bed  and 
to  permit  the  use  of  the  barrow  without  having 
to  run  it  over  loose  soil,  and  thus  to  lighten 
labour. 

At  the  same  time,  this  orderly  subdivision 
of  the  ground  improves  its  appearance,  giving 
a  business-like  aspect  to  the  garden  and  facili- 
tating systematic  cropping. 

A  space  should  be  reserved,  preferably 
screened  off,  for  the  deposition  of  rubbish, 
and  for  the  storage  of  manure,  flower-pots, 
stakes,  and  other  accessories  which  careless 
gardeners  are  too  prone  to  leave  about  in  odd 
places. 

The  box  edgings  one  finds  in  old  gardens  — 
"as  prim  and  square-cut  as  a  Puritan  pastor" 
—  are  charming  to  look  at,  but  they  are 
charged,  and  probably  rightly  so,  with  harbour- 


204 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN        205 

ing  snails  and  other  animals  which  prey  upon 
our  culinary  plants.  Still  I  am  not  sure  that  I 
would  not  put  up  with  the  havoc  of  these  ma- 
rauders to  enjoy  the  solid  green  outlines  and  the 
air  of  old-world  methods  these  edgings  suggest. 

There  are  other  modes  of  associating  the 
vegetable  garden  with  the  flower  ground. 
When  the  whole  plot  is  wide  in  relation  to 
its  length,  it  may  be  convenient  to  reserve 
a  strip  of  ground  along  one  or  both  sides  for 
kitchen  garden  purposes,  and  in  that  event  the 
treatment  may  be  based  upon  the  design  here 
illustrated,  the  object,  as  before,  being  to  retain 
a  certain  decorative  quality  without  detriment 
to  practical  requirements.  The  method  of  doing 
this  is  made  sufficiently  clear  by  the  diagram. 

If  space  and  other  conditions  suit,  there  is 
no  objection  to  cutting  off  the  kitchen  from 
the  flower  garden  entirely  by  a  separating 
hedge;  because  in  the  case  under  consideration 
there  would  be  little  gained  by  blending  the 
two,  since  the  additional  vista  so  obtained, 
being  in  a  transverse  direction,  is  compara- 
tively short.  In  selecting  the  site  for  the 
kitchen  garden  the  question  of  aspect  must 
not   be   overlooked,    particularly   as   it   affects 


206  GARDEN    PLANNING 

that  part  of  the  flower  garden  adjacent.  In 
the  case  just  considered  the  hedge  shadow 
must  be  reckoned  with,  and  for  that  reason 
the  north  side  of  a  garden  having  an  east  or 
west  aspect  would  be  the  best  position  for 
the  kitchen  garden,  other  things  being  favour- 
able. With  a  north  or  south  aspect  the  point 
would  not  arise. 

In  gardens  of  irregular  shape  it  is  some- 
times possible  to  cut  off  a  triangular  or  awk- 
wardly shaped  piece  for  the  vegetable  plot, 
thereby  giving  better  form  to  the  rest. 
Examples  of  this  mode  of  treatment  will  be 
found  in  the  plans  which  follow. 

In  the  actual  making  of  the  ground  the 
gardener  must  follow  the  directions  already 
given  for  trenching  and  manuring. 

If  the  garden  is  of  any  considerable  size 
a  tool  shed,  which  might  be  used  also  as  a 
potting-shed,  is  a  great  convenience.  It  may 
be  a  very  simple  structure;  but  it  is  well  not 
to  disfigure  it  with  corrugated  iron  or  other 
unsightly  material.  A  thatched  roof  of  straw 
or  reeds  would  convert  it  into  an  almost  pic- 
turesque feature,  and  there  is  no  reason  why  it 
should  not  support  a  graceful  flowering  climber. 


CHAPTER  XV 

Glass 

At  the  risk  of  creating  consternation  in  the 
minds  of  those  enthusiasts  who  adore  their 
little  glass  houses,  I  must  say  that  I  cannot 
reconcile  the  greenhouse  with  the  garden 
beautiful.  My  remark,  of  course,  applies  only 
to  the  small  garden,  in  which  I  have  never  seen 
such  a  structure  that  was  not  an  eyesore.  Its 
white  paint  alone  condemns  it;  but  that 
we  can  alter.  Not  so  its  rigid,  spidery  lines 
and  glinting  glass  panes.  Yet  I  admit  its 
utility,  and  I  can  realize  the  pleasures  that 
come  to  the  man  who  carefully  tends  its  crowd 
of  occupants.  My  quarrel  is  with  the  thing 
itself.  If  I  were  advising  the  owner  of  a  small 
garden  plot  on  the  question  of  installing  a 
greenhouse,  I  should  say  "Don't,"  because  I 
know  that  it  is  possible  to  have  a  garden  gay 
with  interesting  flowers  from  March  to  Novem- 
ber without  glass. 

207 


208  GARDEN    PLANNING 

On  the  other  hand,  if  the  gardener  desired 
to  specialize  in  chrysanthemums,  or  some 
other  flower  or  flowers  for  which  a  greenhouse 
is  a  necessity,  I  would  concede  the  point,  re- 
garding it  as  a  compromise;  but  I  should  not 
expect  him  to  achieve  a  very  notable  result 
in  the  garden  picture. 

I  would  therefore  ask  the  would-be  gardener 
to  consider  whether  he  really  wants  a  green- 
house, and  if  he  decides  in  the  affirmative,  I 
would  tender  him  such  advice  as  the  following: 

1.  If  possible — i.e., if  the  aspect  is  suitable — 
put  the  greenhouse  against  one  of  the  house 
walls,  where  it  will  merge  into  the  main  struc- 
ture, and  thus  lose  some  of  its  identity. 

2.  If  that  is  unrealizable,  place  it  where  it 
will  be  possible  to  screen  it  from  view,  so  that 
it  does  not  become  a  conspicuous  object  in 
the  vista  as  seen  from  the  house. 

3.  Select  a  simple  and  unpretentious  design, 
preferably  a  "lean-to"  or  "three-quarter-span" 
pattern,  and  put  it  against  a  boundary  fence 
or  wall.  These  patterns  are  infinitely  pref- 
erable to  the  high-pitched,  ridge-roofed,  doU's- 
house  pavilions  designed  to  evoke  the  admira- 
tion of  the  uninitiated. 


GLASS  209 

4.  Paint  the  outside  woodwork  a  pleasant 
shade  of  green,  not  grass  colour  nor  eau-de-nil, 
but  something  in  between. 

By  observing  these  hints  he  may  succeed 
in  taking  the  sting  out  of  his  glass  box.  The 
gardeners  who  paint  their  greenhouses  white, 
picked  out  with  lines  of  peacock  blue,  hardly 
realize  the  crime  they  commit.  They  are 
blinded  to  the  inconsistencies  by  the  glpry 
of  the  structure  itself,  and  think  not  of  it  as 
an  element  in  the  picture.  For  the  same  reason 
they  give  it  a  place  of  honour  in  the  centre  of 
the  garden's  width,  and  contrive  that  all  roads 
shall  lead  to  it. 

The  humble  garden  frame  is  another  matter. 
It  sits  snugly  on  the  ground,  and  does  not  take 
on  airs.  Its  usefulness  no  one  can  deny,  and 
its  place  is  in  the  vegetable  plot. 

If,  in  spite  of  all,  the  gardener  decides  to 
invest  some  part  of  his  capital  in  "glass," 
then  let  him  beware  of  the  cheap,  jerry-built, 
stock  houses  which  are  occasionally  offered 
to  a  confiding  public.  They  are  not  all  bad, 
but  they  all  have  the  same  family  likeness 
on  paper,  and  the  inexperienced  buyer  is 
tempted  to  buy  the  largest  he  can  get  for  the 


2IO  GARDEN    PLANNING 

sum  he  is  prepared  to  spend,  or  the  cheapest  for 
a  given  size. 

The  greenhouse  at  its  best  is  but  a  skeleton 
structure,  if  we  neglect  the  glass,  and  is  an 
easy  prey  to  weather  influence.  If  framed  of 
wood  of  small  scantling,  or  of  unsound  quality, 
the  decay  comes  sooner  and  proceeds  more 
rapidly.  Joints  give  and  parts  warp  out  of 
shape,  "and  then  the  deluge"  in  a  literal 
sense.  Once  a  house  becomes  leaky  it  is  almost 
hopeless  to  attempt  to  make  it  sound  again. 
Better,  therefore,  to  do  without  than  to  install 
a  cheap  affair  that  will  do  duty  only  for  a  few 
seasons. 

The  best  guarantee  of  quality  is  price  and 
the  reputation  of  the  firm  from  which  you 
buy. 

The  term  "conservatory"  is  generally  applied 
to  a  glass  house  forming  a  permanent  annex 
to  the  house.  It  has  the  advantage  over  an 
unwarmed  detached  greenhouse  of  borrowing 
warmth  from  the  house  in  winter,  and  is  useful 
for  protecting  pot  plants  from  frost.  If  taste- 
fully kept  and  of  sufficient  size,  it  forms  an  ex- 
cellent approach  to  the  garden.  One  not 
infrequently  finds  one  on  the    north    side  of 


GLASS  211 

the  house,  where  it  gets  no  sun,  and  Is,  therefore, 
only  fitted  for  sheltering  a  few  ferns. 

Builders  Indulge  In  flights  of  fancy  In  con- 
nection with  the  conservatory,  In  the  form  of 
chevaux-de-frise,  ornamental  finlals,  and  col- 
oured glass  panes.  They  hope  by  these  at- 
tractions (?)  to  sell  or  let  the  house.  The  man 
of  taste,  however,  will  prefer  the  structure 
to  be  a  piece  of  good  plain  woodwork  glazed 
with  clear  glass.  I  know  of  nothing  more  dis- 
tracting than  to  enter  a  conservatory  into 
which  the  sun  Is  casting  contrasting  beams  of 
blue  and  yellow  light  indifferently  upon  flowers 
and  foliage.  If  for  purposes  of  privacy  it  Is 
desirable  that  the  glass  be  translucent  It  Is 
better  to  use  white  prismatic  or  ground  glass. 
Leaded  glass  In  which  the  prevailing  tint  Is 
a  pale  green  Is  not  objectionable.  The  con- 
servatory floor  should  be  tiled  and  sloped  to 
a  gutter  to  carry  to  the  outside  the  water 
spilled  in  spraying  the  plants. 

A  heating  system  is  essential,  and  in  this  con- 
nection it  is  well  to  take  and  abide  by  the  expert 
advice  of  the  established  greenhouse  builders. 
Much  benefit  will  be  had  from  a  perusal  of  the 
book  "Gardening  Under  Glass." 


CHAPTER  XVI 
Fences  and  Hedges 

I  have  already  pointed  out  how  insistently 
the  boundaries  of  a  small  garden  declare  them- 
selves. Whichever  way  we  turn  the  vista  is 
closed  by  a  wall  or  fence,  and  whatever  expe- 
dients weadoptto  render  these  artificialfrontiers 
inconspicuous  —  whether  by  growing  greenery 
over  them  or  trees  and  shrubs  against  them  — 
we  cannot  entirely  keep  them  out  of  sight.  I 
have  shown,  however,  that  by  adopting  a 
rectilinear  treatment  they  can  be  made  to  har- 
monize with  the  garden  lines.  But  that  will  not 
help  us  much  if  the  fence  itself  is  an  eyesore. 

The  suburban  gardener  very  often  has  to 
take  things  as  he  finds  them,  but  he  who  builds 
his  house  has  the  matter  in  his  own  hands, 
and  for  his  guidance,  therefore,  I  may  offer 
some  suggestions  on  the  subject  of  fencing.  I 
must  make  a  passing  reference  to  walls.  All 
walls  are  much  alike,  but  it  is  worth  while  to 


FENCES    AND    HEDGES  213 

make  the  wall  high  enough  to  permit  of  grow- 
ing vines  upon  it  when  it  receives  full  sun.  A 
height  of  six  feet  in  most  cases  would  be  suflfi- 
cient  for  the  purpose. 

As  regards  the  fence  there  are  two  consider- 
ations —  appearance  and  durability.  The 
former  implies  both  design  and  surface,  the 
latter,  material. 

Of  the  woods  available,  oak  is  unquestion- 
ably the  best  for  a  fence,  not  only  on  account 
of  its  long  life  under  all  conditions  of  weather, 
but  on  the  score  of  appearance.  It  should 
not  be  painted  or  its  charm  of  colour  will  be 
destroyed.  Who  has  not  seen  and  admired 
the  pearly  grays  and  opalescent  tints  of  an 
ancient  park  fence,  and  noted  how  admirably 
it  harmonized  with  the  natural  growth  at  its 
foot?  I  know  of  nothing  which  better  ac- 
cords with  flower  and  foliage  than  the  weath- 
ered surface  of  an  old  oak  fence.  If  the  pales 
are  cleft,  so  as  to  show  the  natural  figure  of 
the  wood,  the  efi"ect  will  be  better  and  the  life 
of  the  fence  longer.  Under  ordinary  circum- 
stances a  height  of  five  feet  is  suflicient,  but 
with  open  country  around  and  no  likelihood 
of    intruders    less    height    may    be    desirable, 


214 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


FENCES    AND    HEDGES  215 

particularly  if  there  is  an  attractive  landscape 
beyond.  The  character  of  the  immediate 
environment  should  determine  both  the  height 
of  the  fence  and  its  design,  which  may  be  open 
or  closed,  or  a  combination  of  both. 

The  construction  should  be  simple,  because 
elaborate  fencework  is  likely  to  usurp  attention 
and  to  detract  from  the  glory  of  the  flower 
ground. 

The  practice  of  allowing  the  posts  to  stand 
above  the  top  line  of  the  fence,  breaking  the 
skyline,  is  a  good  one. 

The  designs  illustrated  should  be  sufficient 
guide  as  to  the  type  of  fence  best  suited  to  a 
small  garden.  The  closed  pattern  has  sawn 
oak  posts  and  arris  rails  and  cleft  pales.  If 
shaped  at  the  top  between  the  posts,  as  shown, 
its  appearance  is  improved. 

The  "windowed"  pattern  is  an  adaptation 
of  the  park  fence,  by  the  addition  of  raised 
heads  to  the  posts  and  a  more  substantial 
top  rail.  The  latter  should  be  "weathered" 
to  throw  off  the  rain. 

The  half-open  fence  with  lattice  top  is  just 
the  thing  on  which  to  train  creepers. 

Paled   fences   should   always   have  a  pHnth 


2l6  GARDEN    PLANNING 

board  to  protect  the  lower  end  of  the  pales 
from  moisture,  and  to  act  as  a  barrier  against 
burrowing  animals. 

Oak  fences  should  be  put  together  with  cop- 
per or  galvanized  nails;  ordinary  iron  nails 
cause  unsightly  inky  stains. 

If  the  gardener  cannot  afford  the  cost  of  oak, 
he  must  use  pine  or  other  boarding  for  his 
pales,  but  certainly  he  should  have  oak  posts 
and  pUnth  boards,  though  he  may  omit  the 
latter  if  he  stops  the  pales  just  clear  of  the 
ground.  The  pales  will  need  painting  either 
with  a  tar  solution  (a  preparation  of  Stockholm 
tar,  not  coal  tar)  or  with  good  oil  paint. 

If  oil  paint  is  used,  the  colour  is  important. 
It  is  difficult  to  select  a  tint  which  harmonizes 
well  with  flowers  and  foliage.  Perhaps  the 
best  is  a  subdued  green  of  a  sagey  tint.  One 
disadvantage  of  painted  fences  is  that  the  paint 
has  to  be  renewed  from  time  to  time,  and  that 
Involves  the  temporary  removal  of  creepers 
and  other  plants  which  may  have  been  trained 
over  them. 

Wire  fences  are  not  desirable  for  a  permanent 
purpose,  but  are  permissible  when  It  is  wished 
to  mark  the  garden  boundaries  whilst  a  hedge 


FENCES    AND    HEDGES  217 

is  coming  to  maturity.  At  the  points  where 
the  wires  start  and  end  the  posts  should  be 
stout  and  well  strutted,  to  enable  sufficient 
tension  to  be  put  on  the  wire  to  make  it  taut. 
The  intermediate  posts  may  be  lighter,  but 
should  be  firmly  planted  to  ensure  their  re- 
maining upright. 

Barbed  wire  is  an  invention  of  the  enemy 
and  should  never  be  admitted  into  the  garden. 


Fig.  58. —  Stretching  wire  fencing 

The  ordinary  galvanized  iron  telegraph  wire 
(No.  8  gauge)  is  the  most  suitable.  It  may  be 
attached  to  the  stretching  post  by  "screw- 
eyes,"  which  should  be  galvanized,  or  by  the 


2l8 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


simple  expedient  of  passing  it  through  holes 
made  with  a  carpenter's  gimlet  and  twisting 
a  knot  in  the  protruding  end.  This  should 
be  done  in  the  manner  illustrated.  The 
stretching  is  best  managed  with  a  block  and 


Fig.  59- —  Open  wooden  fencing 

tackle,  but  if  the  gardener  cannot  command 
the  use  of  this  appliance,  he  may  make  shift 
with  an  extemporized  lever  in  the  manner 
shown. 

When  the  wire  is  taut,  the  end  should  be 


FENCES    AND    HEDGES  219 

knocked  up  with  a  hammer  close  to  the  hole 
and  turned  two  or  three  times  round  a  stout 
nail. 

Kinks  and  bends  in  the  wire  may  be  rubbed 
out  of  it  with  the  hammer  handle  whilst  it 
is  under  tension,  before  the  final  tightening. 

Two  good  types  of  open  fence  are  shown 
in  the  next  illustration,  and  they  call  for  no 
special  description.  In  the  all-rail  pattern 
the  post  heads  are  made  separately  and  nailed 
on,  their  purpose  being  to  protect  the  end 
grain  of  the  post  from  the  weather. 

Temporary  fences  may  be  made  of  rough 
unbarked  cedar  or  other  timber  that  may  be 
readily  and  cheaply  procurable.  The  lattice 
or  "rustic"  fence  is  short-lived,  and  in  long 
lengths  its  diagonal  pattern  is  monotonous. 
Its  appearance  is  much  improved  by  adding 
a  top  rail  of  halved  timber  flat  side  down. 

A  better  type  is  that  next  illustrated,  the 
posts  being  of  unbarked  cedar,  and  the  side 
and  top  rails  of  the  same  halved.  Ordinary 
iron  cut  nails  may  be  used  with  advantage, 
as  their  "rusting-in"  makes  them  hold  all  the 
better. 

In  setting  out  a  fence  care  should  be  taken 


220 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


to  keep  a  straight  line  from  point  to  point, 
by  using  a  stretched  cord  as  a  guide  for  fixing 
the  posts.     The  tops  of  the  posts  should  be 


Fig.  60. —  Larch  fencing 

adjusted  in  line  by  sighting,  two  T  pieces  being 
fixed  as  levels  to  work  from,  one  at  each  end 
of  the  stretch.  The  spacing  of  the  posts  will 
depend  upon  the  design  and  character  of  the 
fence  and  the  length  of  timber  purchased  for 
the  rails,  but  ten  feet  is  the  maximum  advisable, 
and  less  is  better. 

Of  iron  fencing  there  are  patterns  for  all 
purposes,  and  I  need  not  speak  of  them. 

Trellis  —  Trellis  naturally  falls  into  this  sec- 
tion, and  some  words  of  guidance  in  its  proper 
use  may  be  useful.  Ready-made  trellis  is  so 
cheap  that  it  does  not  pay  to  make  it  at  home 
when  the  ordinary  diamond  pattern  is  wanted. 


FENCES    AND    HEDGES 


221 


In  erecting  a  screen  of  trellis  a  well-framed 
support  should  be  provided,  as  there  is  very 
little  strength  or  stiffness  in  the  trellis  itself. 
The  rule  should  be  to  support  all  the  edges 
by  allowing  them  to  butt  against  the  centre 
of  the  frame,  securing  them  by  fillets  nailed 
thereto. 

The  practice  of  leaving  a  raw  edge  at  the 
top  is  slovenly,  and  leads  to  the  premature 
decay  of  the  trellis.  All  trellises  should  be 
painted  with  two  or  three  coats  of  good  oil 
colour,   well   worked   into  the   angles   at  the 


Fig.  6r. —  Construction  of  trellis  screen 

crossings,  for  it  is  there  that  the  rain  finds 
its  way  in  and  starts  the  process  of  decay. 


222  GARDEN    PLANNING 

The  diagonal  pattern  has  come  to  be  so  com- 
mon that  most  gardeners  accept  it  without 
question,  but  where  much  treUis  is  used  it 
looks  better  arranged  with  the  laths  vertical 
and  horizontal. 

If  the  gardener  is  handy  with  his  tools,  and 
blessed  with  sufficient  leisure,  he  may  try  his 
hand  on  "woven  trellis,"  using  cleft  oak  laths 
and  working  on  the  plan  illustrated  in  Fig.  57. 
He  must  design  his  squares  of  sufficient  size 
to  admit  of  bending  the  laths  without  difficulty, 
and  he  should  pin  them  at  their  crossings  with 
oak  pegs.  A  trellis  of  this  kind  will  not  re- 
quire to  be  painted,  and  it  has  a  character  of 
its  own  which  raises  it  far  above  the  machine- 
made  article. 

I  need  hardly  add  that  the  interlacing  may 
be  omitted  and  the  laths  joined  up  in  the 
ordinary  way,  using  either  oak  pegs  or  galvan- 
ized nails. 

Hedges  —  We  may  consider  hedges  as  liv- 
ing fences.  They  not  only  serve  to  mark  the 
garden  boundary  and  the  subdivisions  of  the 
garden,  but  they  materially  assist  us  in  the 
garden  picture.  I  know  of  no  better  back- 
ground for  a  wide  herbaceous  border  than  a 


FENCES    AND    HEDGES  223 

well-grown  hedge,  provided  no  wall  is  available. 
Hedges,  however,  occupy  more  width  than 
fences,  and  we  must  allow  for  this  in  our  plan- 
ning. Also  there  must  be  allowance  for  lateral 
growth  beyond  the  width  to  which  we  intend 
to  train  the  hedge,  because  we  cannot  trim 
at  frequent  intervals.  Also  something  addi- 
tional should  be  allowed  to  keep  the  flowers 
outside  the  radius  of  the  roots  of  the  hedge 
plants. 

As  wind-screens  hedges  are  superior  to  fences 
because  they  allow  air  to  filter  through,  and 
thus  reduce  the  velocity  of  that  which  passes 
over  them. 

Of  hedge  plants  commonly  in  use  nothing 
beats  privet.  When  properly  cared  for  it  is 
very  effective  as  a  screen,  and  it  grows  rapidly. 
Moreover,  it  thrives  in  almost  every  kind  of 
soil,  and  is  happy  alike  in  shade  or  sunshine, 
and  does  not  ordinarily  suffer  from  cold  or  rough 
winds. 

Thorn  is  of  less  rapid  growth  but  makes 
a  thoroughly  business-like  hedge,  and,  ow- 
ing to  its  spines,  cattle  rarely  attempt  to 
break  through  it.  If  well  trained  from  the 
first  so  as  to  make  the  bottom  full  and  close, 


224  GARDEN    PLANNING 

it  will  exclude  even  the  "harmless  (?),  neces- 
sary cat." 

Of  evergreens,  hemlock,  box  and  arbor-vitse 
are  all  admirable,  but  slow  in  growth.  The 
hardy  orange  {Citrus  trifoliata)  makes  a  dense, 
impenetrable  hedge  and  is  evergreen  in  the 
South  but  sheds  its  leaves  in  the  North. 

There  is  no  reason  why  we  should  not  make 
hedges  of  many  of  the  beautiful  flowering 
shrubs,  save  only  the  question  of  cost.  Lilac, 
ribes,  deutzia,  snowberry,  philadelphus,  med- 
lar, diervilla,  flowering  quince,  rose,  sweet- 
brier,  blackthorn,  viburnum,  elder,  berberis, 
althea,  and  spirea  are  all  suitable  and  attrac- 
tive subjects,  and  in  the  light,  warm  soils  in 
the  South  fuchsia  and  hydrangea  may  be 
added  to  the  list.  I  see  no  objection  to  a  mixed 
hedge,  in  which  several  of  the  above  subjects 
are  associated  together.  There  are  pictur- 
esque possibilities  in  such  a  hedge  that  are 
worth  exploiting. 

Sweetbrier  makes  a  charming  hedge  and 
stands  exposure  well,  but  it  is  unsuited  to  town 
gardens,  where  its  viscous  foliage  would  collect 
and  retain  the  sooty  constituents  of  the  atmos- 
phere.    In  planting  a  hedge  the  ground  should 


FENCES    AND    HEDGES  225 

be  trenched  and  manured  and  the  plants 
carefully  lined  up.  The  spacing  will  vary  with 
the  subject,  and  the  nurseryman  will  always 
advise  on  this  point.  The  training  of  a  hedge 
involves  periodical  trim- 
ming. In  the  first  instance 
this  should  be  directed  to 
encouraging  the  lower 
growth,  without  which  the 
hedge  can  never  be  an 
efficient  barrier,  and  might 
develop  into  an  eyesore,  ^'s-  62.— Sections  of  hedge 
The  best  method  is  to  trim  to  a  wedge  shape, 
tapering  from  bottom  to  top  on  both  sides 
equally,  and  to  leave  the  top  quite  sharp. 

The  width  at  bottom,  for  a  hedge  which  is 
eventually  to  be  restricted  to  five  feet  in  height, 
need  not  exceed  two  feet.  The  tops  of  the 
plants  should  not  be  touched  until  they  reach 
the  prescribed  height. 

Fig.  62  A  shows  the  section  to  be  worked  to 
in  the  first  instance.  When  the  bottom  is  well 
filled  in  with  growth,  and  the  plants  have 
obtained  the  maximum  height,  or  have  sprung 
above  it,  the  top  may  be  cut  to  a  uniform  height, 
and  dressed  flat  as  in  Fig.  62  B,  or  rounded 


226 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


if  preferred.     Subsequently  the  sides  may  be 
trimmed  vertically. 

In  long  lines  of  hedging  it  is  desirable  to 
break  the  top  line  by  allowing  the  hedge 
plants  at  intervals  to  grow  above  the  general 


Fig.  63. —  Hedge  tops 

level,  trimming  them  into  some  definite  form, 
as  shown  in  the  illustration  below. 

Gaps  in  the  hedge,  to  accommodate  through- 
paths,  may  be  bridged  over  by  training  the 
adjacent  plants  into  an  arch,  for  which  a  tem- 
porary support  would  be  required. 

The  gardener  should  never  forget  that  his 
hedge  makes  considerable  demands  on  the 
soil,  and  he  must  therefore  not  expect  that 
flowers  will  thrive  in  close  proximity  to  it, 
wherefore  he  should  allow  sufficient  width 
in  all  borders  which  skirt  a  line  of  hedging. 

Box  Edgings  —  These  are  miniature  hedges. 
The  objection  that  they  encourage  and  harbour 


FENCES    AND    HEDGES  227 

insect  pests  may  be  dismissed  by  the  practical 
man,  who  will  avail  himself  of  the  fact  to 
search  out  the  intruders  and  destroy  them. 
The  best  dwarf  form  is  Buxus  sempervirens 
var.  suffruticosa.  It  should  be  planted  in  April 
or  May.  A  narrow,  clean-cut  trench  of  tri- 
angular section  should  be  got  out,  and  the  box 
plants  inserted  in  a  close  line,  the  soil  being 
drawn  up  against  them  with  a  board  held  in 
the  right  hand,  whilst  the  left  forearm  holds 
the  plants  in  line. 

Box  edging  should  not  be  allowed  to  grow 
to  a  greater  height  than  six  Inches,  and  the 
clipping  should  be  done  with 
care  so  as  to  preserve  the 
height  uniform,  and  to  main- 
tain a  clean  line,  whether  it  Y\g.  64.  —  Planting  box 
is    straight   or   curved.     The  edging 

best  time  for  cHppIng  is  at  the  end  of 
May  or  during  the  first  week  in  June. 

The  best  shape  in  cross-section  is  square- 
topped  with  battered  or  vertical  sides,  though 
If  it  pleases  the  eye  of  the  gardener  the  top 
angles  may  be  rounded. 

Ivy  Edgings  —  These  have  a  bold,  handsome 
appearance,  but  are  not  suitable  for  gardens 


228  GARDEN    PLANNING 

of  restricted  size,  and  in  town  gardens  they  are 
apt  to  become  coated  with  soot,  nor  are  they 
reliable  in  the  North  as  they  winter-kill.  Where 
space  admits,  however,  and  the  temperature 
is  safe,  excellent  effects  may  be  obtained  with 
ivy.  It  is  only  necessary  to  insert  the  plants 
and  to  peg  them  down  to  the  soil,  which  in 
time  they  will  cover  with  abundant  growth. 
An  annual  clipping  in  April  or  May  will  soon 
produce  a  neat  effect. 

Other  Edgings  —  Many  other  plants  are  in  use 
for  edgings,  such  as  the  ground  myrtle,  euony- 
mus,  and  pachysandra,  etc.,  but  as  they  present; 
no  special  difficulty  in  management,  and  have 
no  special  features  to  commend  them,  I  need 
only  refer  to  them  by  name,  as  a  reminder  to 
the  gardener  who  is  casting  about  for  some- 
thing different. 

The  Verge  —  This  makes  an  admirable  edg- 
ing where  space  permits,  and  where  it  is  not 
subject  to  unfavourable  conditions,  such  as  the 
drip  of  trees.  To  ensure  the  best  effect  it 
should  be  trimmed  with  mathematical  accuracy. 
As  the  mowing  and  trimming  involve  consider- 
able labour  it  will  not  commend  itself  to  the 
gardener  of  limited  leisure. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

Tile    and    Other    Artificial    Edgings 

These  nave  a  wider  application  than  the 
living  plant  edgings  just  noticed,  and  they  are 
a  necessity  in  a  well-kept  garden.  When  turf 
and  soil  or  turf  and  gravel  come  into  juxta- 
position the  clean-cut  edge  of  the  turf  consti- 
tutes a  good  enough  edging.  The  case  is 
different  where  soil  and  gravel  meet.  The 
qualities  which  should  distinguish  a  good 
edging  are  durability  (both  as  regards  resis- 
tance to  weather  influence  and  accidental 
fracture);  flexibility,  to  permit  it  to  be  laid 
in  a  good  curve  if  necessary;  stability,  to  enable 
it  to  keep  in  place;  and,  lastly,  moderate  cost. 

Tile  Edgings  —  These  may  be  just  plain 
roofing  tiles,  or  special  edging  tiles  with  a 
"fancy"  margin,  of  which  many  patterns, 
good,  bad,  and  indifi'erent,  are  offered  for  sale. 
Of  the  former  I  have  little  to  say  beyond  point- 
ing out  that  they  are  usually  too  thin  to  resist 
229 


230  GARDEN    PLANNING 

the  wear  and  tear  of  every-day  usage,  and  the 
porous  kinds  are  subject  to  fracture  by  frost. 
Special  edging  tiles  are  made  of  the  following 
materials: 

Porous    brickware    (red). 
Hard    brickware     (red). 
Stoneware    (brown). 
Blue  brickware  (slaty  blue). 

The  first  is  undesirable  on  account  of  its 
brittleness  and  liability  to  fracture  by  frost, 
and  the  last  on  account  of  its  unpleasant  colour, 
though  it  has  the  advantage  of  toughness  and 
strength.  Between  the  other  two  materials 
there  is  little  to  choose.  Both  are  durable  and 
unobjectionable  in  colour,  and  the  gardener 
may  decide  as  he  thinks  best.  If  price  is  a 
consideration,  he  would  find  the  hard  brick- 
ware the  least  expensive,  though  prices  may 
vary  according  to  district. 

When  it  comes  to  selecting  the 

a    pattern  he  cannot  be  too  circum- 
spect,   and    he    had    best    confine 
Fig.  65.— Edg-  himself  to  simple  designs.     In  my 
ing  tile        opinion   the   tile   edging   is   not  a 
feature    it   is    desirable    to    emphasize     with 


ARTIFICIAL    EDGINGS  23 1 

decoration.  The  plain  scallop  edge  is  the  least 
offensive.     (See  Fig.  65.) 

Even  that  is  apt  to  suffer  in  use,  and  will  show 
unpleasant  gaps  where  some  of  the  projections 
have  been  broken  off  by  a  chance  blow  of  the 
spade. 

Perhaps  the  strongest  pattern  is  the  so-called 
"cable"  design,  but  to  that  there  is  the  ob- 
jection that  it  is  a  barefaced  imitation  of 
something  which  it  never  quite  succeeds  in 
simulating,  and  which  in  the  reality  would  be 
a  most  inappropriate  thing  as  a  permanent 
feature  in  the  garden.  Moreover,  these  tiles 
are  unsightly  when  laid  in  curves. 

Generally  speaking,  the  edging  tile  is  some- 
thing one  had  better  do  without,  and  as  a 
substitute  for  it  which  has  the  advantage  of 
greater  substance,  durability,  and  stability, 
combined  with  lower  cost,  I  commend: 

Brick  Edgings  —  The  common  builder's  red 
brick,  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  makes 
an  excellent  edging,  and  is  capable  of  being 
used  in  various  ways.  Laid  flat,  its  top  sur- 
face level  with  the  gravel,  it  becomes  the  margin 
of  the  path  and  at  the  same  time  an  efficient 
barrier  to  the  soil  of  the  border.     Used  in  this 


232  GARDEN    PLANNING 

way  it  may  be  associated  with  a  box  edging,  as 
indicated  in  the  illustration  (A).  Otherwise  it 
may  be  set  on  edge  to  stand  about  half  its 
width  above  the  gravel  and  soil  as  in  B.  There 
is  little  to  choose  between  these  two  modes  of 
using  it.  Another  and  less  familiar  method  is 
to  employ  it  in  the  form  of  a  concealed  edging 
in  the  way  shown  at  C.  This  makes  a  very  neat 


Fig.  66. —  Brick  edgings 


and  unobtrusive  edging,  not  easily  damaged. 
When  it  is  carried  round  curves  it  should 
be  laid  endwise  to  the  line,  using  half-bricks. 
This  form  of  edging  is  also  useful  as  a  division 
between  turf  and  gravel,  as  it  precludes  the 
need  for  much  labour  in  trimming  the  turf 
edge,  and  at  the  same  time  absolutely  pre- 
serves the  original  line. 

In  purchasing  bricks  for  edgings  the  gardener 
should  see  that  he  gets  hard,  well-burnt  ones, 
either   wire-cut   or   pressed.     Moulded   bricks 


ARTIFICIAL    EDGINGS  233 

have  a  hollow  on  one  side,  which  makes  them 
unsuitable. 

There  is,  however,  a  kind  of  brick  which  is 
preferable  to  the  ordinary  rectangular  brick, 
if  cost  is  not  an  important  consideration.  It 
is  the  "plinth"  brick. 
It  has  one  of  its  edges 
bevelled,  as  shown  in  the 
illustration,  and  makes 
quite  an  ideal  edging. 
Its  price  averages  about  Fig.  67.-The  plinth  brkk , 
fifteen    dollars    a    thou-  ^'^^'"^ 

sand,  which  brings  it  materially  higher  in  cost 
than  the  common  brick,  but  still  cheaper  than 
the  edging  tile. 

Stone  Edgings  —  In  districts  where  stone  is 
plentiful  and  cheap,  it  may  be  used  as  an 
edging,  and  it  has  the  advantage  of  being 
obtainable  in  long  lengths.  It  may  also  be 
worked  in  any  section  desired,  or  we  may  use 
it  roughly  dressed.  The  illustration  on  page 
234  indicates  some  simple  and  suitable  sections. 

Sometimes  the  gardener  is  in  a  position  to 
buy  cheaply  old  stone  paving,  which  may  be 
adapted  as  an  edging  with  good  effect. 

Slate  has  been  suggested  for  edgings,  and  in 


234  GARDEN    PLANNING 

districts  where  it  is  cheap,  if  used  in  pieces  at 
least  one  inch  thick,  it  is  durable  and  efficient; 
but  its  colour  is  unpleasing,  and  I  cannot  com- 
mend it  for  the  flower  garden  on  that  account. 
For  the  vegetable  ground  it  is  quite  admirable. 


Fig.  68. —  Stone  edgings  (sections) 

The  least  expensive  kind  of  edging  is  the 
common  flint,  and  on  the  score  of  appearance 
and  stability  it  leaves  little  to  be  desired.  It 
should  be  bedded  deeply,  and  the  flints  should 
be  large  ones.  The  practice  common  in  some 
districts  of  whitening  flint  edgings  gives  them 
too  much  prominence,  and  on  that  account  I 
do  not  favour  it. 

When  a  bed  or  border  is  to  be  raised  above 
the  general  level  the  edging  may  be  built  up 
of  flints  or  brickbats. 

There  is  no  special  virtue  in  the  flint,  apart 
from  its  abundance  and  ubiquity.  In  districts 
where  other  natural  stone  is  common  it  may  be 
used  in  rough  pieces  in  the  same  way  as  flints, 
with  equally  good  effect. 


ARTIFICIAL    EDGINGS  235 

Wood  Edgings  —  The  last  form  of  artificial 
edging  that  I  shall  notice  is  the  board  edging. 
It  has  its  usefulness  as  a  temporary  expedient 
when  we  wish  to  make  our  gravel  paths  before 
we  lay  the  permanent  edging,  and  it  is  some- 
times used  in  kitchen  gardens.  Its  appearance 
is  never  good,  and  the  presence  of  wood  in  the 
soil  is  at  all  times  to  be  condemned,  because 
it  encourages  the  growth  of  fungous  life. 

Unprepared  wood  is  hardly  good  for  more 
than  two  seasons.  If  required  to  last  longer 
it  must  be  dressed  with  a  tar  solution  or  creo- 
soted. 

The  best  way  to  secure  wood  edgings  is  to 
nail  them  to  stout  square  pegs  driven  firmly 
into  the  soil. 

In  putting  down  edgings  of  every  kind  they 
should  never  be  allowed  to  stand  to  a  greater 
height  out  of  ground  than  is  necessary  to  form 
a  barrier  against  rolling  earth  clods. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

Garden  Plans 

In  the  following  examples  of  small  sub- 
urban plot  gardens,  mostly  consisting  of  plans 
actually  executed,  I  have  applied  the  principles 
set  forth  in  the  foregoing  pages.  Each  plan 
is  drawn  to  scale,  and  accompanied  by  a 
scale  of  feet,  and  for  clearness  I  have  included 
only  such  details  as  are  needed  to  indicate 
-the  general  scheme  of  the  garden.  These 
examples  may  be  closely  followed  whenever 
the  conditions  are  the  same  as  shown  in  the 
plans.  It  should  be  understood  that  for  a 
given  set  of  factors  there  are  many  possible 
arrangements,  all  equally  good,  so  that  per- 
sonal taste  and  inclination  may  be  allowed 
considerable  scope,  so  long  as  the  main  prin- 
ciples of  planning  are  observed.  Considera- 
tions of  economy  may  dictate  the  omission 
or  modification  of  certain  details,  which  the 
gardener  will  decide  for  himself.  My  primary 
236 


GARDEN    PLANS  237 

object  in  presenting  these  plans  is  to  elucidate 
the  subject  of  garden  design  in  a  concrete  form. 
If  they  should  prove  of  use  in  individual  cases, 
so  much  the  better.  It  should  be  noted  that 
each  plan  is  made  for  a  special  aspect,  and 
that  it  will  only  hold  good  for  an  aspect  not 
greatly  differing  from  that  shown  by  the  arrow 
with  which  the  plan  is  marked.  But,  given 
the  same  aspect,  the  plan  would  serve  for  plots 
of  similar  proportions  and  dimensions,  and 
with  care  to  preserve  due  scale  between  de- 
tails, for  plots  of  larger  or  smaller  size.  Thus 
the  plan  (Fig.  78)  might  be  appHed  to  a  plot 
of  twice  the  length  shown,  by  lengthening  the 
central  grass  space  and  its  associated  borders, 
and  leaving  the  features  at  such  end  the  same 
as  shown  on  the  plan. 

In  all  these  examples  the  following  points 
have  been  observed: 

1.  Grass  is  confined  to  compact  areas,  with 
means  of  access  to  them  at  more  than  one  point. 

2.  Trees  are  placed  so  as  not  to  cast  shadows 
on  the  borders. 

3.  Principal  borders  are  in  full  sun. 

4.  The   summer  house  entrance  is  in  shade 
or  partial  shade. 


238  GARDEN    PLANNING 

5.  Symmetry  in  the  main  features  of  the 
plan  is  ignored. 

6.  Path  space  is  reduced  to  a  minimum,  so 
far  as  is  consistent  with  achieving  a  pictur- 
esque effect. 

7.  When  grass  space  is  divided,  the  two 
areas  are  not  of  equal  size. 

8.  The  vista  from  the  summer  house  is 
made  as  interesting  as  possible. 

9.  No  curves  or  angles  other  than  right 
angles  are  introduced  into  the  garden  lines, 
except  only  where  they  may  serve  some  useful 
purpose,  as  in  Figs.  84  and  loi. 

I  have  adopted  the  following  conventional 
indications  in  all  the  plans: 


Beds  and  borders Full  black 

Grass Shaded 

House Hatched 

Paths,  drives,  and  vegetable  spaces  Unshaded 


Arches,  thus 


Pergolas,  thus 


Glass,  thus 


GARDEN    PLANS 


239 


Fig.  69.  —Size,  26  feet  by  20  feet.  Aspect,  SE.  The  path  at  its  near  end 
communicates  with  the  kitchen  yard,  and  at  its  far  end  terminates  at  an 
arbour.  The  space  at  the  angle  ot  the  path  might  carry  a  tub  or  sundial.  The 
north-west  boundary  fence  might  be  raised  with  trellis  to  give  increased  surface 
for  growing  climbing  plants. 

Fig.  70.  — Size,  42  feet  by  20  feet.  Aspect,  nearly  due  E.  The  path  ter- 
minates at  a  summer  house  and  gives  access  to  a  small  yard,  in  which  a  tool- 
shed  is  shown. 

Note:  In  this  and  succeeding  plans,  the  upper  caption  pertains  to  the  left- 
hand  diagram;  the  lower  caption  to  the  right-hand  diagram. 


240  GARDEN    PLANNING 


Fie-  ?!• , — Size,  45  feet  6  inches  by  20 
feet.  Aspect,  N.  The  back  entrance 
gate  is  screened  by  the  summer  house, 
and  the  yard  offers  accommodation  for 
garden  requisites,  and  contains  a  small 
tool-shed.  The  e.xpansion  in  the  path 
might,  carry  a  vase  or  tub. 

Fig.  72.-  —  Size,  6s  feet  6  inches  by 
g2  feet.    Aspect,  approximately  NE. 

About  one  third  of  the  plot  is  devoted  to  vegetables  and  screened  ofi  by  a 
hedge  and  a  summer  house. 


GARDEN     PLANS 


241 


Fig.  73.  —Size,  69  feet  by  15  feet  Aspect,  approximately  S  Half  the 
spaM  is  given  to  vegetable  ground,  a  glass  house  being  placed  at  the  division. 
The  eastern  border  continues  through  the  kitchen  plot. 

Fig.  74-  —Size,  s8  feet  by  20  feet.  Aspect,  E.  Thewhole  of  this  plot  is  laid 
out  ts  flower  ground.  The  southern  border  against  the  fence  is  shady,  and 
should  be  planted  with  shade-loving  subjects. 


242  GARDEN    PLANNING 


.  Fig.  75-  ,— Size,  64  feet  by  22  feet.  Aspect,  N.  This  aspect  admits  of 
flower  display  close  to  the  house-back.  A  sundial  is  shown  in  the  gravel  space 
facing  the  back  entrance,  and  a  flower  vase  in  the  square  expansion  of  the 
path.  The  small  detached  grass  area  might  be  planted  with  trees  to  make  a 
shady  corner,  and  bulbs  might  be  planted  in  the  grass. 

Fig.  76.  —Size,  67  feet  by  25  feet.  Aspect,  NW.  About  one  third  of  the 
plot  Is  screened  off  for  use  as  vegetable  ground,  and  borders  are  carried 
through  it. 


GARDEN     PLANS 


243 


e 


o 


Fig.  77.-— Size,  87  feet  by  30  feet.  Aspect,  NNE.  A  feature  is  made  of 
a  formal  group  of  beds  facing  the  summer  house,  a  sundial  occupying  the 
centre  of  the  group.  The  path  terminates  in  an  alpine  garden,  which  com- 
municates by  steps  with  a  detached  grass  space,  planted  for  shade.  The  di- 
viding hedge  gives  a  sense  of  enclosure  to  the  formal  garden,  and  privacy  to 
th»  space  beyond. 

Fig.  78. — Size,  116  feet  by  40  feet.  Aspect,  SW.  The  summer  house, 
trees,  and  shrubs  screen  the  diagonal  piece  of  fence.  The  end  space  is  de- 
voted to  a  sunken  alpine  garden.  A  low  rubble  wall  retains  the  borders  to  north 
and  south-west.  A  raised  circular  bed  occupies  the  centre.  The  roofed  space 
at  the  house-back  is  a  veranda,  from  which  a  pleasant  vista  down  the  plot  if 
obtained. 


244^ 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


Fig.  79-  —Size,  60  feet  by  26  feet,  expanding  at  end  to  44  feet.  Aspect, 
NE.  THis  is  not  an  uncommon  shape  for  suburban  plots,  and  it  lends  itself 
to  a  pleasing  arrangement,  the  pocket  at  the  end  coming  as  a  surprise. 


GARDEN 

PLANS 

"■ 

1 

.HL 

h                -T-tA-t^. 

*j     1r5*  +^ 

^•-^Wm 

H5 


Fig.  80.  —  Size,  126 
feet  by  27  feet,  average 
Aspect,  E.  A  small  vege- 
table ground  is  shown  at 
the  end,  divided  oflE  by  a 
cranked  line  of  hedging 
This  gives  oppoitunity 
for  setting  a  formal  gi^oup 
of  beds  in  the  rectangular 
space  adjoining  the  sum- 
mer house.  This  space 
would  make  a  good  rose 
garden.  An  alpine  gar- 
(den  breaks  off  from  the 
main  path,  and  commu- 
nicates by  steps  with  a 
shady  corner  at  the  south- 
west. 


246 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


Fig.  81.  —  Size,  68  feet  6  inches  by  29  feet,  average.    Aspect,  SW.    The 
details  are  sufficiently  indicated  in  the  plan. 


GARDEN     PLANS 


247 


Fig.  82.  —Size,  146  feet  by  49  feet,  average.  Aspect,  SE."  A  yard  witli 
outbuildings  separates  the  flower  garden  into  two  almost  equal  spaces.  The 
front  grass  area  might  be  reserved  for  croquet.  A  small  vegetable  ground 
occupies  the  extreme  end  of  the  plot. 


248 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


Fig.  83.  —Size,  148  feet  by  54  feet,  average.  Aspect,  NW.  A  curved 
roadway,  causes  a  diverging  shape.  The  details  of  the  plan  will  sufficiently 
explain  themselves. 


GARDEN     PLANS 


249 


Fig.|  84. ,— Size,  113  feet  by  36  feet,  average.  Aspect,  SW.  In  this  case 
the  garden  boundaries  are  of  unusual  shape,  but  they  do  not  preclude  a  good 
arrangement— in  fact,  this  may  be  made  a  picturesque  and  interesting  garden 
<f  the  suggestion  contained  in  the  plan  be  carried  out. 


250 


Fig.  85.; — Size,  156  feet  by  60  feet.  Aspect,  E.  A  simple  rectangular  pl<» 
with  detached  house,  built  on  orchard  ground.  Fruit  trees  were  retained  in 
the  positions  shown,  and  made  an  interesting  feature.  In  this  and  other  ex- 
amples it  should  be  noted  that  a  trellis  screen  is  introduced  to  give  privacy  t0 
the  kitchen  quarters 


GARDEN      PLANS 


251 


Fig.  86.  — Size,  95  feet  byyo  feet,  average.    Aspect,  E.    A  slightly  diverging 
plot  devcfted  entirely  to  flower  garden. 


252 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


Fig.  87.  .—Size,  129  feet  by  O4  feet.  Aspect,  E.  A  comer  plot  with  sepa- 
rate entrance  to  the  kitchen  quarters.  In  this  case  the  house  is  placed  as  far 
as  possible  from  both  thoroughfares.  The  features  include  a  summer  house,  a 
sundial,  rock  garden,  pergola,  and  group  of  rose  beds. 


GARDEN     PLANS 


253 


Fig.  88.  —  Size,  94.feet  by  78  feet,  averiige.  Aspect,  W.  The  house  is  set 
parallel  with  north  and  west  fence  lines.  The  slope  to  the  north-east  neces- 
sitates terracing  on  two  sides  of  the  house.  The  terrace  wall  at  its  highest  part 
is  concealed  by  the  rockwork  of  the  alpine  garden.  Fruit  trees  are  planted  in 
the  south-east  comer.    The  whole  makes  a  compact  and  interesting  garden. 


254 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


Fig.  89. —  Size,  116  feet  by  87  feet.  Aspect,  nearly  W.  The  enclosed 
formal  garden  south  of  the  house  is  an  interesting  feature  as  seen  from  the 
drawing  room  window.  The  circular  bed  and  borders  on  the  principal  grass 
space  are  intended  for  roses.  A  dial  is  placed  in  the  expansion  of  the  path  to 
the  east.    A  kitchen  garden  is  included. 


GARDEN     PLANS 


Fig.  90. — Size,  1 24  feet  by  92  feet,  average.  Aspect,  E.  A  slightly  converg- 
ing plot,  one  half  laid  out  as  flower  ground,  the  remainder  as  fruit  and 
vegetable  garden. 

Note :  In  none  of  the  foregoing  plans  has  any  provision  been  made  for  a  tennis 
tawn.  In  most  cases  the  space  is  insufficient,  without  destroying  the  value  of 
the  garden  as  a  picturesque  flower  ground.  With  plots  of  larger  size  the  grass 
space  might  be  utilized  for  tennis  by  keeping  it  free  of  trees. 


Figs.  91  to  97  inclusive  show  examples  of 
fore-courts  or  gardens  situated  between  the 
house  and  the  thoroughfare,  in  some  cases  being 


256  GARDEN    PLANNING 

supplementary  to  the  principal  garden,  and  In 
others  constituting  the  principal  garden  space. 


Fig.  91.  — Size,  20  feet  by  19  feet.  Aspect,  S.  This  plan  shows  the  simple 
treatment  I  advocate  for  a  small  fore-court.  It  provides  ample  flower  space 
and  is  more  effective  when  well  planted  than  if  the  design  were  more  complex. 

Fig.  92.  —  Size,  20  feet  by  18  feet  6  inches.  Aspect,  W.  A  groui)  of  flower- 
ing shrubs  occupies  a'central  position  on  the  grass.  The  position  of  the 
entrance  gate  permits  of  borders  on  either  side  of  the  path. 


Fig.  93-  — Size,  40  feet  by  40  feet.  Aspect,  W.  The  group 
gravel  makes  a  pleasing  and  distinctive  feature. 

Fig.  94.  — Size,  19  feet  by  30  feet.  Aspect,  E.  An  arts 
gives  ample  border  space,  and  admits  of  a  group  of  small  beds  on  t 


of  beds  on  the 

iia^jci-L,   a:..   .Till   arrangement  which 
of  a  group  of  small  beds  on  the  trass. 


GARDEN     PLANS 


Fig.  95-  —  Size,  SI  feet  by  50  feet. 
Aspect,  nearly  W.  A  fore-court  larger 
than  the  average,  treated  with  no  regard 
to  symmetry. 


■ 


Fig.  96.  — Size,  73  feet  by  15  feet.  Aspect,  S.  A  not  uncommon  type  of 
front  garden,  arranged  so  as  to  obtain  variety  in  detail,  and  a  screening  effect 
for  the  sake  of  privacy. 


258 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


Fig.  97.  — Size,  59  feet  by  32  feet.  Aspect,  S.  A  front  garden  of  ample 
width,  admitting  of  treatment  for  picturesque  effect.  With  a  good  screen  of 
trees  or  shrubs  along  the  front  boundary  this  garden  would  not  be  unduly 
overlooked.  It  should  be  noted  that  the  side  yard  is  masked  by  trees  and 
the  summer  house  by  transverse  borders.  A  sundial  might  be  placed  in  thi 
central  expansion  of  the  path. 


GARDEN     PLANS  259 

The  following  four  examples  of  existing  gar- 
dens, planned  by  the  author,  will  give  the 
reader  some  idea  of  how  to  treat  spaces  of 
larger  area  than  those  already  illustrated. 


Fig.  98.  —  A  plot  of  about  one  acre.  The  house  had  been  built  before 
the  garden  was  designed,  and  made  to  face  due  south.  Thus  it  was  necessary 
to  work  in  contradiction  to  one  of  the  rules  laid  do\TO  in  this  book .  Fortunately, 
the  circumstances  permitted  of  obtaining  a  good  result.  The  diagonally  run- 
ning broad  walk  constitutes  quite  a  valuable  feature.  The  separation  of  the 
kitchen  garden  into  three  separate  plots  was  by  the  owner's  wish,  and  for  the 
purpose  of  making  the  lawn  on  the  north  side,  whence  a  pleasant  oudooK  over 
an  adjoining  golf  course  was  too-valudble  to  be  sacriaceci  or  marred  by  a  fore- 
ground of  vegetables.  The  formal  group  of  beds  in  tne  south-west  comer  is  a 
rose  garden. 


26o  GARDEN    PLANNING 

The  planning  has  followed  the  general 
principles  already  expounded,  though  with  a 
certain  latitude  permitted  by  the  circumstances, 
and  with  concessions  to  the  expressed  wishes  of 
the  owners,  in  some  of  the  details. 


Fig.  99.  — This  was  a  plot  of  irregular  shape,  through  which  ran  an  old 
hedgerow  with  several  standing  elm  trees,  three  or  four  of  which  were  pre- 
served. The  line  of  this  hedgerow  followed  the  sloping  path  between  the  steps 
to  the  east  of  it.  Note  the  vista  through  the  kitchen  garden,  with  its  back- 
ground of  fruit  trees. 


GARDEN    PLANS 


261 


Fi«,  100.  —In  this  example  certain  details  of  the  garden  were  determined 
before  tEe  design  was  made,  notably  the  enclosed  space  south  of  the  house, 
which  is  cut  off  from  the  fore-court  by  the  tradesmen's  passage. 


262 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


Fig.  loi.  A  town  site,  in  which  the  owner  wished  to  make  a  feature  of  the 
alpine  garden,  to  which  considerable  space  has  been  given.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  space  devoted  to  vegetables  was  to  be  small  and  out  of  sight.  The 
basement  areas  precluded  borders  along  the  house  walls.  It  being  a  comer 
site,  it  was  necessary  to  screen  the  garden  from  passers-by  along  the  east 
boundary.  This  was  done  by  a  substantial  trellis  in  the  position  indicated  on 
the  plan. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

Planting 

The  practical  aspect  of  planting  is  for  the 
working  gardener.  It  consists  of  placing  the 
plants  in  the  soil  in  such  a  way  that  they  at 
once  find  conditions  suitable  for  growth,  both 
as  regards  nourishment  and  external  environ- 
ment. This  implies  a  knowledge  of  the  re- 
quirements of  each  kind  of  plant.  It  is  not 
sufficient  to  dig  a  hole  and  thrust  in  the  roots. 
The  hole  should  be  of  the  right  depth  and  of 
ample  size  to  accommodate  the  roots  when 
spread  out  over  its  bottom,  and  the  soil  thrown 
in  should  be  carefully  compacted  around  the 
roots  by  pressure.  These  details,  however, 
do  not  enter  into  the  question  of  garden  design. 
Nevertheless  the  garden  maker  has  a  very 
real  concern  in  the  planting  operations,  because 
it  is  in  the  placing  of  the  plants  that  his  garden 
picture  may  achieve  its  highest  development, 
or  be  utterly  marred. 

263 


264  GARDEN    PLANNING 

Flowers  —  In  planting  a  bed  or  border  it  is 
necessary  to  consider  the  flowers  in  respect  to  — 

1.  Colour. 

2.  Habit. 

3.  Period  of  bloom. 

4.  Succession. 

I.  The  most  striking  characteristic  of  the 
flower  undoubtedly  is  colour,  and  the  success 
of  any  piece  of  planting  will  depend  to  a  large 
extent  upon  the  skill  and  good  taste  with 
which  the  colours  are  managed.  In  the  days 
when  the  old-fashioned  flowers  were  deposed 
to  make  room  for  that  unfortunate  quartet, 
scarlet  geranium,  scarlet  sage,  canna,  and  coleus, 
the  canons  of  good  taste  were  lost  sight  of  in 
the  new-born  enthusiasm  for  vivid  contrast 
in  primary  colours.  The  vogue  for  these 
flowers  has  now  somewhat  declined,  but  the 
trail  of  it  still  lingers  in  many  gardens,  and 
gardeners  continue  to  plant  as  if  the  acme 
of  good  effect  depended  upon  the  accom- 
plishment of  a  series  of  garish  contrasts  in  the 
most  brilliant  gamut  of  colour  at  com- 
mand. It  is  a  question  whether  we  should 
ever  attempt  to  associate  vividly  contrasting 
colours,    for  if  the  mass  of  each  colour  is  not 


PLANTING  265 

large,  they  will  cancel  each  other  at  anything 
but  short  range. 

The  finest  colour  effects  are  to  be  sought 
rather  in  harmonies,  which  offer  a  much  wider 
opportunity  for  broad,  rich,  and  conspicuously 
telling  display,  both  for  close  inspection  and 
for  distant  effect. 

The  construction  of  harmonious  colour 
schemes  is  not  so  much  a  matter  of  rule  as  of 
feeling,  and  a  sense  for  colour  is  by  no  means 
universal.  On  the  contrary,  it  is  a  somewhat 
rare  gift,  and  it  is  not  surprising,  therefore, 
that  a  goodly  proportion  of  gardeners  make 
mistakes.  Fortunately,  however,  most  people 
who  are  not  colour  blind  can  recognize  a  good 
colour  effect  when  they  see  it,  though  they  may 
be  powerless  to  originate  one. 

The  treatment  of  a  bed  or  border  must  to 
some  extent  be  governed  by  circumstances, 
and  by  the  number  of  different  colours  avail- 
able. It  is  not  desirable  that  every  square 
foot  of  soil  should  cry  aloud  at  the  top  of  its 
voice.  Here  we  may  make  a  subtle  harmony 
of  subdued  tints,  the  beauty  of  which  will 
appeal  only  to  the  near  spectator:  there  we 
may   strive    for    a    more    insistent    note     of 


266  GARDEN    PLANNING 

colour,  with  a  view  to  producing  a  vivid  note 
in  the  general  picture. 

It  is  with  the  warm  tints  that  one  can  con- 
trive the  greatest  wealth  of  colour  effect. 
Rose,  crimson,  scarlet,  orange,  and  yellow 
associate  harmoniously  and  reinforce  each 
other.  Lilac,  lavender,  mauve,  purple,  and 
violet  form  another  group  equally  suitable 
for  a  rich  concordance,  or  to  contrast  in  the 
mass  with  yellow.  Whites  are  generally  best 
associated  with  the  paler  colours,  such  as 
pinks,  mauve,  or  primrose  yellow.  The  pure 
blues  which  we  get  In  the  gentian  and  delphi- 
nium are  best  kept  away  from  the  mauve  and 
purple  blooms.  They  are  always  difficult  to 
deal  with  in  a  harmonized  scheme,  and  perhaps 
had  best  be  reserved  for  the  few  vivid  contrasts 
with  which  we  may  punctuate  here  and  there 
our  colour  picture.  The  rich  scarlet  which  we 
have  in  the  lychnis  and  Oriental  poppy  will 
furnish  the  other  element  of  such  a  contrast. 

A  combination  of  gentian  blue  with  a  pale 
green  foliage  plant,  like  the  common  pyreth- 
rum,  is  a  somewhat  daring  but  generally  pleas- 
ing contrast.  The  reddish  mauves  also  com- 
bine well  with  this  coloured  foliage. 


PLANTING  r  267 

It  is  hardly  possible  to  enumerate  all  the 
combinations  of  colour,  even  when  only  two 
elements  are  used.  Those  who  have  an  eye 
for  a  good  colour  effect  will  experiment  for 
themselves,  and  continually  find  new  and 
charming  harmonies  and  contrasts.  For  those 
who  cannot  trust  their  colour  sense  I  have 
compiled  a  short  list  of  examples  which  may 
be  relied  upon  to  yield  good  results  if  used 
in  a  suitable  environment. 


Coloi 


Hardy  Flower  Examples 


White  and  Mauve  .^_^ 

White  and  Yellow 
White  and  Pink 

White  and  Pale  Blue 

Scarlet  and  Blue 

Scarlet  and  Crimson 

Deep  Blue  and  Pale  Blue 
Crimson  and  Rose 

Mauve  and  Yellow 


Crimson  and  Yellow 
Purple  and  Yellow---. 


White  herbaceous  phlox 

Mauve  violas 

Iceland  poppies  of  both  colours 

White  violas 

Herbaceous  phlox 

Iberis  sempervirens 

Campanula  Carpatica 

Lychnis  Chalcedonica 

Delphinium 

Geum 

Pyre  thrum 

Delphiniums  of  both  shades 

Sweet-william 

Herbaceous  phlox 

Galega  officinalis 

Anthemis  tinctoria 

Aster 

Solidago 

Snapdragons  of  both  colours 

Crocus 

Daffodil 


268  GARDEN    PLANNING 

Gray  foliage  should  be  associated  with  vivid 
colours  such  as  crimson,  scarlet,  and  pure  blue; 
brown  or  purple  foliage  with  yellow  and  orange. 
Magenta  crimsons  and  bluish  pinks  should 
not  be  placed  in  juxtaposition  to  pure  crimsons 
or  scarlets. 

Rose-pink  and  rosy  mauve  harmonize  with 
silvery  gray,  and  we  may  have  this  combina- 
tion in  one  plant  as  in  Stachys  lanata.  As 
might  be  expected,  nature  rarely  makes  a 
mistake,  so  that  a  plant's  own  foliage  is  gener- 
ally in  harmony  with  its  flowers,  or  furnishes 
a  good  background  contrast  for  them. 

How  little  the  subject  of  colour  is  under- 
stood, even  by  those  who  ofi"er  guidance  in 
the  matter,  is  shown  by  the  wide  differences 
of  view  that  writers  have  adopted.  One 
authority,  whose  opinions  one  would  imagine 
were  the  outcome  of  some  defect  of  vision, 
says,  "Nor  have  I  any  preference  for  one 
colour  over  another;  but  I  have  very  decided 
notions  that  the  various  colours  should  be  so 
completely  commingled  that  one  would  be 
puzzled  to  determine  what  tint  predominates 
in  the  entire  arrangement."  This  surely  is  most 
precise  advice  on  how  not  to  achieve  a  good 


PLANTING  269 

colour  scheme,  and  well  describes  the  common 
but  Ineffective  method  of  arranging  a  mixed 
bed  or  border,  in  which  everything  kills  every- 
thing else. 

It  should  be  an  axiom  in  garden  practice 
to  contrast  or  harmonize  colour  In  masses. 
An  instructive  experiment  tried  some  years 
since,  for  determining  the  best  method  of 
painting  gun-carriages  so  as  to  render  them 
inconspicuous  at  a  distance,  consisted  in  using 
red,  blue,  and  yellow  paint  In  spots,  a  kind  of 
stippling  of  the  surface  with  the  primary  colours 
In  equal  proportions.  The  result  entirely  real- 
ized its  originator's  Intentions.  The  coloured 
spots  were  mutually  destructive,  and  the 
resultant  tint  a  neutral  gray.  This  is  quite 
In  accordance  with  theory,  and  I  mention  It 
here  because  It  demonstrates  how  entirely 
mistaken  is  the  writer  whose  dictum  I  have 
just  quoted. 

Were  I  planting  a  bed  with  flowers  of  two 
contrasting  colours  I  should  adopt  the  simple 
plan  of  using  a  broad  edging  of  one  colour  with 
a  central  mass  of  the  other.  A  bed  of  white 
/^  pinks,  edged  with  mauve  violas,  or  of  purple  blue 
Cantefbufy  bells,  edged  with  yellow  violas,  or 


GARDEN    PLANNING 


/      \ 


Fig.  102.  —  AT' 

rangemeht  of  her- 
baceous border 


with  the  yellowish-green  foliage  of 
the  pyrethrum,would  entirely  satis- 
fy my  sense  of  a  good  colour  effect. 

When  it  comes  to  planting  a  long 
herbaceous  border,  the  same  prin- 
ciples apply.  Indiscriminate  mix- 
ture of  colours,  as  already  seen,  is 
the  least  effective  mode  of  plant- 
ing, and  formal  parallel  rows  are 
almost  equally  ineffective.  The 
best  way  is  to  use  large  masses  of 
each  colour,  and  with  them  to 
construct  a  consecutive  harmony, 
which  we  may  regard  as  a  kind  of 
floral  spectrum  in  which  colour 
succeeds  colour,  each  harmoniously 
related  to  its  neighbour  on  either 
side.  These  colour  masses  should 
not  be  in  simple  compartments  di- 
vided by  transverse  lines,  but  of 
irregular  shape,  as  shown  in  the 
illustration. 

The  sequence  of  colours  may  be 
varied  within  limits,  always  pro- 
'.  vided  the  rules  of  harmony  be  ob- 
served. Here  are  two  typical  series: 


PLANTING  271 

(i)  Purple,  mauve,  white,  pale  yellow,  bright 
yellow,  orange,  scarlet,  crimson,  rose,  pink, 
white,  pale  blue,  full  blue. 

(2)  Deep  red,  scarlet,  orange,  yellow,  pale 
yellow,  white,  pale  blue,  deep  blue. 

The  same  order  may  be  repeated,  adopting 
different  proportions  for  the  masses  if  the 
border  is  a  long  one,  or  the  scheme  may  be 
varied  by  changing  the  sequence  of  colours. 
In  some  cases  a  more  limited  scheme  may  be 
advisable,  in  which  one  or  more  colours  are 
suppressed,  white  being  an  element  which  may 
be  omitted  without  detriment  to  a  good  result. 
White  is  so  telling  at  any  time  that  it  should 
always  be  used  with  restraint.  Yellow  also 
is  a  colour  that  may  be  overdone. 

The  foliage  of  the  plants  which  we  use  in 
these  colour  arrangements  may  or  may  not 
affect  the  results,  either  by  reinforcing  the 
colour  values,  or  by  toning  them  down.  Gen- 
erally speaking,  however,  it  takes  a  subordi- 
nate place,  and  may  well  be  neglected.  Chev- 
reuil,  the  famous  Director  of  the  Gobelins  Dye 
Works,  who  wrote  "The  Laws  of  Contrast  of 
Colour,"  says:  "An  objection  might  be  ad- 
dressed to  me  that  the  green  of  the  leaves 


272  GARDEN    PLANNING 

which  serves  as  a  ground  to  the  flowers  destroys 
the  efl"ect  of  their  contrast,  but  it  is  not  so; 
and  to  be  convinced  of  it,  it  is  sufficient  to  fix 
upon  a  screen  of  green  silk  two  kinds  of  flowers 
(of  contrasting  colour)  and  to  look  at  them 
from  a  distance  of  about  ten  paces;  for  when 
the  eye  is  fixed  upon  two  well-defined  objects 
simultaneously,  surrounding  objects  produce 
but  feeble  impressions." 

I  believe  that  in  the  garden  picture  we  hardly 
appreciate  the  colour  effect  of  the  foliage  of 
our  plants,  not  only  because  of  the  retiring 
character  of  most  greens,  but  because  they 
merge  into  the  other  larger  masses  of  green 
—  the  grass,  trees,  and  shrubs  —  and  thus 
become  part  of  the  general  background. 

There  are,  however,  the  gray  and  yellow 
greens  which,  by  reason  of  their  contrast  with 
the  others,  are  not  negligible,  and  on  that 
account  they  may  become  useful  as  colour 
factors  in  certain  schemes. 

The  student  of  colour  in  the  garden  may  con- 
sult Chevreuil  with  advantage.  He  has  an- 
alyzed colour  sensation  in  a  masterly  way, 
devoting  a  special  section  of  his  book  to  horti- 
culture,   and    though    his    conclusions    were 


PLANTING  273 

formulated  half  a  century  ago,  they  still  hold 
good  in  their  scientific  and  artistic  applications. 
2.  The  habit  of  the  plant  is  the  next  point 
to  be  considered,  and  it  is  by  no  means  an  unim- 
portant one.  By  habit  I  mean  not  only  shape, 
size,  and  general  appearance,  but  also  those 
special  characters  which  distinguish  one  plant 
from  another.  It  may  consist  in  mode  of 
branching,  texture  of  foliage,  form  of  flower 
head,  colour  of  foliage,  denseness  or  sparseness 
of  blossom,  or  time  of  flowering  in  relation  to 
leaf  production  (some  plants,  it  is  well  known, 
put  forth  their  flowers  before  their  leaves,  as 
the  daphne,  forsythia,  etc.).  It  is  only  when 
we  know  these  details  that  we  are  in  a  position 
to  use  the  plant  to  best  advantage.  I  have 
already  pointed  out  how  important  it  is  that 
our  garden  plants  should  be  allowed  freedom 
of  growth  to  develop  their  individual  characters. 
Character  in  the  plant  is  one  of  its  greatest 
charms  to  those  who  regard  it  not  merely  as 
a  means  for  producing  blossom.  In  referring 
to  "freedom  of  growth"  I  do  not  wish  it  to  be 
understood  that  I  condemn  those  necessary 
pruning  operations  which  make  for  the  welfare 
of  the  plant.     I  refer  solely  to  the  growing  of 


274  GARDEN    PLANNING 

plants  in  a  way  to  develop  their  special  habit, 
instead  of  pinching  and  cutting  them  into 
some  conventional  form  foreign  to  their  nature. 

To  make  the  point  clear  I  may  instance  a 
herbaceous  border  in  which  the  best  general 
effect  is  produced  when  there  is  no  rigid  sys- 
tem of  grading  the  plants  in  height.  Though 
the  rule  should  be  to  put  the  taller  and  more 
robust  plants  to  the  back,  it  is  essential  to  the 
best  results  from  a  picturesque  point  of  view 
that  this  rule  should  be  broken  occasionally, 
by  here  and  there  reversing  it.  One  or  more 
bold  clumps  of  flower  brought  to  the  front  at 
irregular  intervals  gives  a  character  to  the 
border  that  would  be  unobtainable  in  any 
other  way. 

The  gardener  who  prides  himself  on  a  tidy 
garden  may  resent  the  intrusion  of  a  massy 
clump  upon  his  path  or  grass  edge,  and  will 
keep  It  within  bounds  by  Ill-judged  mutila- 
tion, till  the  poor  intruder  becomes  a  maimed 
wreck.  It  Is  by  this  kind  of  gardening  that 
plants  are  shorn  of  their  beauty,  and  the 
border  Is  made  a  stiff  and  formal  detail. 

The  next  point  Is  to  see  that  each  plant  has 
sufficient    elbow-room     to    develop     without 


PLANTING  275 

hindrance  from  its  neighbours.  This  does  not 
imply  a  starved  bed  or  border,  only  that, 
armed  with  the  knowledge  of  the  habit  of  each 
plant,  the  gardener  allots  it  just  sufficient 
room  to  grow  centrifugally  without  check  from 
its  companions.  Thus  the  taller  plants  may 
be  separated  by  others  of  more  moderate 
growth,  and  the  former  will  have  space  above 
to  expand  their  foliage  unhindered. 

Again,  with  a  knowledge  of  plant  habit  we 
may  associate  bushy  plants  with  those  which 
tend  to  legginess  —  to  use  a  term  well  known 
to  the  gardening  fraternity  —  and  thereby 
conceal  the  uninteresting  view  of  a  sheaf  of 
bare  stalks.  Plants  which  throw  up  long 
narrow  spikes  of  flower  may  keep  company 
with  others  having  a  tufted  habit,  to  their 
mutual  advantage  in  the  general  effect.  Those 
with  silvery,  glaucous,  or  bronze  foliage  may 
be  placed  where  they  will  reinforce  others 
whose  flowers  are  best  set  off  by  contrast  with 
these  special  kinds  of  foliage.  Shrubs  and 
plants  which  flower  in  advance  of  their  leaves 
may  be  supported  by  evergreen  or  early- 
leafing  plants.  Again,  we  may  use  the  bold- 
foliaged    plant    for    association    with      those 


276  GARDEN    PLANNING 

of  Sparse  and  inconspicuous  habit.  The  final 
result  of  care  in  these  particulars  will  be  a 
natural,  informal  effect,  in  which  every  individ- 
ual plant  appears  to  be,  and  is,  at  home  in 
its  surroundings,  and  in  consequence  is  bfest 
conditioned  for  producing  its  maximum  contri- 
bution to  the  aggregate  picture.  If,  as  I  have 
instanced,  some  vigorous  plant  pushes  forward 
beyond  the  boundary,  or  some  pretty  trailer 
ignores  the  edging,  it  is  a  gain  to  the  gardener 
and  no  fault  of  the  planting.  He  should  suffer 
such  accidents,  in  reason.  He  may  even  con- 
spire to  bring  them  about,  for  the  special 
purpose  of  importing  informality  into  the 
garden. 

In  the  back  row,  variety  of  height  is  desirable, 
even  when  all  are  tall,  for  the  plants  will  sil- 
houette against  the  background,  and  an  even 
row,  like  soldiers  on  parade,  would  be  monot- 
onous. 

In  beds  and  groups  of  beds  the  same  princi- 
ples apply,  but  not  quite  in  the  same  degree. 
We  may  group  the  tall  plants  in  the  centre 
and  reserve  the  margin  for  others  of  smaller 
and  more  uniform  size.  Though  we  may  plan 
on  geometrical  lines,  we  should,  like  the  painter, 


PLANTING  ,277 

endeavour  to  soften   them.     Our   plants   will 
do  that  for  us  if  only  we  allow  them. 

3.  It  is  only  by  making  ourselves  acquainted 
with  the  flowering  period  of  our  plants  that 
we  can  be  sure  that  those  we  bring  together 
for  the  purpose  of  constructing  a  contrast  or 
colour  harmony  will  be  in  bloom  at  the  same 
time.  Not  only  should  they  start  approxi- 
mately simultaneously,  but  their  periods  of 
bloom  should,  as  far  as  possible,  coincide  in 
length,  because  the  effect  will  be  measured  in 
duration  by  the  period  of  the  flower  which 
lasts  the  shortest  time.  By  judicious  selection 
it  is  possible  to  contrive  that  there  shall  be  few 
failures  from  this  source. 

4.  Succession  is  the  very  keynote  of  good 
gardening,  for  we  cannot  afford  to  shorten 
the  period  during  which  flowers  are  possible, 
nor  can  we  tolerate  empty  spaces  in  our  borders. 
By  consulting  a  seedsman's  list  the  garden 
maker  may  select  his  plants  and  so  dispose 
them  that,  as  the  spring-blooming  kinds  fail, 
others  will  succeed  for  the  summer  months 
to  be  followed  in  their  turn  by  the  autumn- 
blooming  kinds.  This  system  of  succession, 
well  arranged,  will  give  us  flowers  from  Febru- 


278  GARDEN    PLANNING 

ary  to  mid-November,  thus  covering  the  maxi- 
mum period  during  which  we  are  likely  to  be 
able  to  enjoy  our  gardens.  It  demands  some 
nicety  of  method,  particularly  when  the  bor- 
ders are  laid  out  for  a  broad  colour  effect,  im- 
plying that  each  separate  colour  group  must 
contain  plants  of  which  some  will  always  be  in 
flower.  In  other  words,  the  distribution  of 
early,  middle,  and  late-flowering  plants  must 
be  over  the  whole  space  and  in  intimate  asso- 
ciation. 

My  references  have  been  confined  to  hardy 
plants,  because  they  alone  come  within  the 
purview  of  the  garden  designer.  The  effects 
to  be  obtained  from  annuals  and  bedding-out 
plants  belong  to  the  routine  of  garden  manage- 
ment, but  the  same  principles  apply  as  regards 
colour,  habit,  period,  and  succession. 


CHAPTER  XX 

Further    Considerations    in 
Garden    Making 

The  impress  of  art  should  be  as  much  in 
evidence  in  the  minor  details  of  the  garden  as 
in  the  more  important  and  more  obvious  ones. 
Carelessness  in  small  matters  may  go  a  long 
way  to  undo  the  results  of  thought  and  skill 
devoted  to  the  main  features. 

In  the  foregoing  pages  I  have  endeavoured 
to  formulate  simple  rules  for  the  guidance  of 
the  garden  designer.  I  have  not  only  stated 
the  "how"  but  also  the  "why,"  believing 
that  thereby  my'  advice  will  carry  more  weight 
and  be  the  better  understood  and  remembered. 

Although  the  construction  of  a  garden  plan 
on  paper  is  a  necessary  preliminary  to  the 
practical  operations  on  the  site,  it  will  only 
carry  the  garden  maker  a  certain  way  toward 
the  desired  result.  Much  of  the  detail  will 
have  to  be  filled  in  on  the  ground.  It  is  in  the 
-79 


286  GARDEN    PLANNING 

finishing  touches  that  he  may  add  distinction 
to  the  picture,  and  he  should,  therefore,  study 
his  work  as  it  proceeds,  looking  for  opportunities 
for  minor  embellishments  and  effects  in  detail. 
I  do  not  mean  that  he  should  seek  for  an  over- 
elaborated  result,  but  he  should  be  alive  to 
possibilities,  and  should  neglect  none  of  the 
various  openings  which  may  present  themselves 
for  artistic  work  in  a  small  way. 

I  have  already  dealt  with  colour  in  the  plant- 
ing of  beds  and  borders,  but  there  are  other 
places  in  which  the  garden  maker  may  intro- 
duce charming  effects.  One  of  the  most  gor- 
geous pieces  of  colour  work  I  have  ever  seen 
was  the  result  of  planting  Virginia  creeper  at 
the  foot  of  a  clump  of  small  firs  in  the  fore- 
court of  a  country  residence.  In  a  short  time 
it  had  clambered  up  amongst  the  dark  foliage, 
and  had  festooned  it  with  graceful  sprays.  In 
summer  the  foliage  told  as  light  green  against 
dark,  but  the  effect  in  autumn,  when  every  leaf 
was  vivid  carmine,  was  indescribably  beautiful. 

I  remember  also  a  similar  effect  in  a  Scottish 
garden,  in  which  a  flame  nasturtium  {Tropcsolum 
speciosum)  had  taken  possession  of  a  large 
straggling  elder  tree,  and  wreathed  it  about 


GARDEN    MAKING  281 

with  masses  of  scarlet.  The  result  in  that 
case  was  a  happy  accident,  but  none  the  less 
worthy  of  being  noted  and  subsequently  re- 
peated with  deliberate  intent.  This  nasturtium 
cannot  be  found  in  America,  but  the  trumpet 
vine  offers  a  near  substitute. 

Reds  always  come  so  well  against  a  mass  of 
dark  foliage  that  we  can  never  make  a  mistake 
in  contriving  effects  like  those  just  described. 

There  are  colour  effects  of  contrast  and  colour 
effects  of  harmony,  and  we  may  employ  either 
or  both  according  to  circumstances. 

An  irregular  belt  of  the  beautiful  palmate- 
leaved  Japanese  maples  on  the  near  side  of  a 
mass  of  shrubs  makes  a  glorious  expanse  of 
quiet  but  sufficiently  conspicuous  colour,  if 
the  component  plants  be  selected  for  variety 
of  tint  and  texture. 

The  favourite  box  elder  {Acer  negundo),  and 
its  gold-leaved  variety,  if  often  repeated,  pro- 
duce a  cheap  and  commonplace  effect,  but  a 
single  specimen,  well  placed,  strikes  a  charming 
note  of  colour.  A  like  effect  Is  obtainable  with 
the  common  golden  elder,  which  should  be 
cut  to  the  ground  every  year  to  preserve  its 
bushy  habit. 


282  GARDEN    PLANNING 

The  flowering  trees  afford  us  abundant  op- 
portunity for  constructing  colour  masses  in 
the  vertical  plane,  but  their  colour  must  be 
seen  against  a  solid  background  of  green  foliage 
to  yield  its  best  effects.  This  applies  particu- 
larly to  trees  with  loose,  open  foliage  like  the 
thorn,  almond,  and  laburnum.  Subjects  like 
the  horse  chestnut  are  sufficiently  dense  in 
foliage  to  constitute  their  own  background. 

I  have  already  referred  to  the  planting  of 
bulbs  in  grass.  Some  surpassingly  beautiful 
effects  may  be  contrived  in  the  less  formal 
parts  of  the  garden  by  the  judicious  use  of 
bulbs  in  this  way.  The  daffodil,  crocus,  scllla, 
and  snowflake  are  suitable  for  the  purpose. 
They  should  be  arranged  in  large  groups  of 
one  colour,  not  commingled  as  is  so  often  done. 

In  a  half-shady  corner,  particularly  where 
there  are  banks,  the  polyanthus  or  lily-of-the- 
valley,  may  be  naturalized,  and  will  prove  a 
delightful  feature  in  spring. 

Though  subtropical  gardening  is  a  costly 
and  troublesome  hobby,  a  semi-tropical  effect 
may  be  secured  on  a  small  scale  by  selecting 
suitable  plants.  Given  a  position  not  too 
closely   related  with    formal    surroundings.    It 


GARDEN    MAKING  283 

is  worth  while  to  attempt  such  an  effect,  using 
only  hardy  plants.  Success  will  depend  upon 
the  skill  with  which  the  materials  are  em- 
ployed. I  should  prefer  a  sheltered  position, 
and  I  should  plant  such  trees  as  staghorn 
sumach,  Ailanthus,  Aralia  spiiiosa,  and  Salts- 
buria  adiantifolia.  There  should  be  a  col- 
lection of  hardy  bamboos,  yuccas,  reeds 
(particularly  Arundo  conspicua  and  A.  donax), 
pampas  grass,  and  bold-foliaged  plants  like 
acanthus,  polygonum,  rhubarb,  and  rod- 
gersia.  I  would  introduce  kniphofia  for  its 
colour  value.  Of  smaller  plants  I  should 
select  those  which  afford  a  suggestion  of  exotic 
form  —  funkia,  Bocconia  cordata,  crown  im- 
perial, Solomon's  seal,  coltsfoot,  verbascum, 
ferns,  and  many  others  which  I  need  not 
enumerate. 

The  beauty  of  a  pseudo-tropical  garden 
made  on  these  lines  would  consist  in  the  variety 
and  special  character  of  the  foliage,  and 
everything  being  hardy,  it  would  not  involve 
a  tithe  of  the  trouble  and  expense  of  a  sub- 
tropical garden. 

The  graceful  habit  and  beauty  of  flower  of  our 
hardy  climbers  make   them  valuable  material 


284  GARDEN    PLANNING 

for  the  gardener.  For  the  pergola,  walls  and 
fences,  arches,  and  for  special  effects  amongst 
trees  and  shrubs,  they  are  indispensable.  As 
subjects  for  the  house  walls  they  have  their 
best  opportunity  for  full  development,  because 
of  the  height  and  extent  of  the  wall  surfaces. 
With  so  many  charming  examples  of  climber- 
covered  houses  around  us  it  is  remarkable 
that  the  gardener  so  often  overlooks  the  possi- 
bilities of  creating  a  beautiful  picture  on  the 
house  walls.  The  oft-repeated  fallacy  that 
growth  of  this  kind  causes  damp  walls  has 
already  been  refuted.  It  doubtless  accounts 
for  the  studied  neglect  of  this  part  of  the  garden 
picture.  In  my  opinion  nothing  helps  to  bring 
the  house  into  harmony  with  its  garden  sur- 
roundings so  effectually  as  the  treatment  of 
its  walls  with  creepers,  particularly  those  which 
tend  toward  a  full  and  informal  habit,  clus- 
tering in  rounded  masses  as  they  ascend  and 
benignly  concealing  the  angles  and  straight 
lines  of  the  brickwork.  There  should  be 
creepers  to  flower  at  all  seasons  and  for  every 
aspect.  Of  purely  foliage  ones  I  should  not  be 
lavish,  particularly  of  such  subjects  as  Boston 
ivy  {Ampelopsis  tricuspidata) ^   which  hugs  the 


GARDEN    MAKING  285 

walls  in  a  thin  sheet  of  uniform  surface.  But 
of  the  climbing  roses,  clematis,  jasmines,  honey- 
suckle, and  wistaria  we  cannot  be  too  prodigal. 

I  have  already  referred  to  the  necessity  for 
not  overdoing  the  whites  in  the  garden.  White 
tells  more  strongly  than  any  colour,  and  scat- 
tered whites  have  a  tendency  to  degrade  the 
colours  with  which  they  are  associated.  But 
white  may  be  used  in  a  way  to  produce  an 
admirable  effect  if  it  be  the  right  kind  of  white. 
It  is  essential  that  it  be  used  in  the  mass,  and  I 
know  of  no  more  beautiful  feature  for  a  garden 
than  a  dense  group  of  Lilium  candidum,  its 
pure  white  petals  softened  and  modified  by 
the  yellow  anthers  and  their  reflections. 

There  are  certain  plants  and  shrubs  which 
have  a  special  claim  to  be  treated  as 
"specimens,"  affording  us  a  means  of  adding 
interest  to  a  lawn.  One  of  the  best  of  these  is 
the  yucca,  which  is  hardy  and  evergreen,  and 
throws  up  a  fine,  bold  spike  of  creamy  flowers. 
It  should  be  placed  where  it  will  be  sheltered 
from  cold  winds,  and  preferably  in  association 
with  other  shrubs. 

The  pampas  grass  is  another  equally  valuable 
plant,  too  familiar  to  need  description.     It  is 


286  GARDEN    PLANNING 

best  placed  in  an  isolated  position  where  it  will 
have  space  to  throw  out  its  graceful,  arching 
foliage,  and  if  possible  it  should  have  a  foliage 
background  for  the  creamy  plumes  it  produces 
so  freely. 

Terrace  walls,  whether  the  brick  or  masonry 
kinds  so  dear  to  the  architect,  or  the  rough 
rubble  walls  which  with  advantage  may  take 
their  place,  should  never  be  allowed  to  be  bare. 
The  former  may  be  clothed  with  creepers,  the 
latter  with  alpines.  Shady  corners,  and  spaces 
unsuitable  for  flower-growing,  may  be  planted 
with  ferns,  which  thrive  best  in  shade  if  they 
have  protection  from  cold  winds. 

An  interesting  feature  in  an  English  garden 
was  called  an  "Orchid  Dell"  by  the  owner.  It 
was  a  hollow  on  a  chalky  hillside,  which  had 
been  excavated  at  some  earlier  period,  and, 
before  taken  in  hand,  had  supported  a  straggling 
growth  of  hazel.  Soil  had  gravitated  to  the 
bottom,  and  had  become  overgrown  with  fine 
grass.  Native  ferns  were  planted  freely  about 
the  hazel  stems.  A  rough  spiral  path  was 
carried  from  the  floor  to  the  brink  of  the  dell, 
threading  its  way  through  the  thicket.  In  the 
grass,  native  orchids  were  planted,  and  the  con- 


GARDEN    MAKING  287 

ditions  proved  favourable  to  their  welfare.  The 
common  bluebell,  wild  anemone,  and  primrose 
of  the  woods  were  added,  being  confined  mainly 
to  the  steep  banks.  The  effect  in  spring  was 
beautiful,  the  flowers  losing  nothing  by  being 
in  partial  shade.  The  dell  was  entered  through 
a  natural  arch  of  traveller's  joy — the  wild 
clematis.  I  mention  this  as  an  instance  of 
what  may  be  done  to  beautify  what  by  many 
would  be  regarded  as  a  piece  of  waste  ground 
suitable  only  as  a  dumping  place  for  garden 
rubbish.  An  almost  exact  counterpart  is 
possible  on  most  of  the  garden  spots  of 
America. 

In  spite  of  our  best  efforts  to  make  the  garden 
beautiful  at  every  point.  It  will  happen  at  times, 
unfortunately,  that  ugly  objects  intrude  into 
the  picture.  A  stable  building,  pottlng-shed, 
garage,  or  other  structure,  necessary  but  un- 
beautiful,  offends  the  eye,  and  it  should  be 
the  gardener's  care  to  conceal  it.  Much  may 
be  done  by  planting  trees  and  shrubs,  but  they 
take  time  to  grow  to  sufficient  size,  and  whilst 
the  natural  screen  is  In  progress  of  development 
It  Is  well  to  erect  a  temporary  one  of  trellis, 
training  some  quick-growing  climbers  upon  it. 


288  GARDEN    PLANNING 

In  certain  cases  there  may  be  insufficient  room 
for  the  natural  screen,  and  then  the  trellis 
should  be  a  permanent  structure,  built  sub- 
stantially of  stout  materials. 

I  might  enumerate  a  vast  number  of  sugges- 
tions and  expedients  for  creating  beauty  in  the 
garden  details,  but  I  could  not  hope  to  exhaust 
the  subject  within  the  limits  of  this  chapter. 
Each  garden  provides  its  own  particular  set 
of  problems,  and  the  main  point  for  the  garden 
maker  is  to  be  alive  to  opportunities  for  in- 
teresting work  and  to  avail  himself  of  them  to 
the  utmost.  Though  I  have  emphasized  the 
importance  of  studying  the  general  effect, 
and  of  treatment  adapted  for  securing  a  broad, 
well-composed,  and  interesting  picture,  I  re- 
gard it  as  equally  important  that  the  details 
should  be  as  carefully  studied.  A  garden  is 
seen  in  two  ways  —  as  a  pleasant  place  afford- 
ing a  sense  of  space,  repose,  and  variety  of 
form  and  colour,  and  as  something  to  examine 
in  detail  for  its  interest  of  flower  and  plant. 
In  time  the  outlines  of  the  garden  become  so 
familiar  to  the  owner  that  they  only  feebly  im- 
press him,  but  not  so  the  beds,  borders,  and 
other  parts  of  the  garden  devoted  to  flower 


GARDEN    MAKING  289 

display.  The  latter  are  ever  changing  with 
the  seasons  and  growth  of  the  plants,  and  thus 
are  places  of  perennial  interest.  This,  I  think, 
Is  sufficient  reason  for  attention  to  the  smaller 
garden  problems,  and  I  regard  such  problems, 
so  far  as  they  Involve  constructive  work  —  in 
which  I  Include  planting  —  as  coming  within 
the  province  of  the  garden  designer.  Whether 
his  efforts  are  directed  to  the  removal  or  con- 
cealment of  some  eyesore,  or  to  the  creation 
of  some  pleasing  effect  in  colour,  or  to  provid- 
ing a  means  of  growing  some  specially  interest- 
ing kind  of  plant,  the  result  will  be  of  value  to 
the  garden  as  "finish,"  that  quality  which 
will  stamp  his  work  with  the  character  of 
thoroughness. 

A  reserve  plot  Is  a  useful  adjunct  to  any 
garden.  It  may  be  placed  wherever  a  con^ 
venlent  spot  is  available,  but  most  often  it  is 
associated  with  a  kitchen  garden,  which  is 
perhaps  the  best  practice.  It  is  just  a  place 
for  raising  and  pricking  out  seedlings,  but  if 
space  permits  It  may  be  made  to  serve  the 
further  purpose  of  growing  flowers  for  cutting. 
Most  garden  owners  are  only  too  delighted  to 
offer  plants  to  their  friends,  and  the  reserve 


290  GARDEN    PLANNING 

garden  is  the  place  from  which  they  may 
distribute  surplus  stuff  without  making  gaps 
in  the  beds.  It  also  conduces  to  economy, 
for  nearly  all  the  hardy  perennials  may  be 
easily  raised  from  seed  in  the  reserve  garden, 
and  it  is  a  source  of  much  interest  so  to 
raise  them. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

The  Evolution  of  an  Ideal  Lot 

While  it  may  be  quite  true  that  there  is  but 
one  ideal  plan  for  any  given  place  it  is  also 
equally  true  that  the  development  of  that 
particular  plan  may  be  by  gradual  growth — a 
fact  that  is  often  overlooked.  Given  a  proper 
general  plan  to  start  with  the  details  may  be 
elaborated  step  by  step,  always  adding,  never 
tearing  down,  and  so  giving  progressive  oc- 
cupation for  the  gardener  for  several  years 
ahead.  This  has  been  splendidly  illustrated 
in  an  article  in  the  Garden  Magazine  with  the 
accompanying  progressive  plans,  by  Mr.  C. 
Stanton,  all  of  which  are  here  reproduced. 

Taking  the  typical  suburban  division,  it  is 
pointed  out  that  the  land  surrounding  the 
dwelHng  is  divided  into  three  parts — the  service 
portion,  the  "front  lawn,"  and  the  living  area. 
The  service  portion  including  the  drives,  walks, 
291 


292  GARDEN    PLANNING 

the  garage,  the  clothes-yard,  etc.  (all  those  parts 
which  are  necessary  to  the  proper  functioning  of 
the  estate,  but  which  we  do  not  expect  will  add 
much  to  its  beauty),  should  be  determined  first 
of  all,  as  these  things  are  fundamental  to  the 
comfort  of  the  occupants  and  affect  the  every-day 
activities.  This  area  is  to  be  kept  as  compact  as 
possible  to  save  space,  and  so  that  it  may  be 
readily  shut  from  view  of  the  living  area.  In 
the  accompanying  plan,  it  has  been  placed  on 
the  shady  side  of  the  house,  in  order  that  it  may 
be  hidden  from  the  rest  of  the  estate,  and  so  that 
people  in  the  garden  and  on  the  piazza  will  not 
be  bothered  by  the  noises  of  the  kitchen,  etc., 
and  by  delivery  wagons  coming  to  the  house. 
This  arrangement  allows  about  as  much  land 
on  the  southern  side  of  the  house,  the  "sunny" 
side  that  we  wish  to  develop,  as  it  is  possible  to 
have. 

The  front  lawn  area  is  that  portion  of  the 
property  that  your  fellow  townspeople  see  as 
they  walk  by  on  the  street.  This  has  been 
made  only  large  enough  to  provide  a  setting  for 
the  house,  and  to  bring  it  far  enough  away  from 
the  street  with  its  dust  and  noise.  While  this 
part  is  comparatively  simple  to  develop,  there 


THE    EVOLUTION    OF    AN    IDEAL    LOT        293 

are  enough  ways  of  doing  it  to  allow  for  plenty 
of  originality  in  the  design. 

It  is  in  the  planning  of  our  own  private 
living  area,  however,  that  there  are  unlimited 
opportunities  to  show  individual  skill.  First 
we  must  try  to  secure  a  certain  amount  of 
privacy,  without  shutting  out  any  fine  views 
that  we  may  be  fortunate  enough  to  have.  The 
plan  shows  the  places  where  the  screens  are  to 
come  that  will  hide  most  of  the  undesirable 
views.  It  is,  of  course,  impossible  to  shut  an 
objectionable  piece  of  landscape  from  sight  of 
all  points  of  the  property,  so  we  strive  to  hide 
it  from  the  points  that  will  be  the  most  used. 
These  would  be  the  piazzas,  any  terraces,  the 
places  where  we  intend  to  put  seats,  etc.  On 
the  specimen  plan  (page  295)  the  spots  that 
command  the  fine  views  in  the  distance  have 
been  marked  so  that  we  will  not  by  any  chance 
block  them  out.  The  privacy  can  be  secured 
by  the  use  of  hedges,  trees,  shrubs,  walls,  fences, 
etc.,  and  we  can  take  our  choice.  Whatever 
is  used  must  be  kept  in  harmony  with  the  house. 
The  great  trouble  with  walls  and  hedges  is  that 
when  they  are  tall  enough  to  hide  the  inside 
from  prying  eyes,  they  are  liable  to  be  so  tall 


294  GARDEN    PLANNING 

that  they  will  obstruct  our  good  views.  For 
the  average  place  nothing  can  equal  the 
"mixed  border"  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  perennials 
as  a  screen,  when  it  is  properly  designed;  as  it 
allows  such  a  great  latitude  in  the  choice  of 
material. 

Methods  of  carrying  out  the  rough  outline 
are  shown  (Figs.  103  to  105).  In  (Fig.  104)  tall 
trees  supply  the  shade  and  act  as  screens;  and 
a  shrub  border  is  for  privacy.  The  good  views 
have  all  been  saved,  and  several  of  them 
"  framed. "  Two  trees  shade  the  house,  and  three 
(preferably  elms)  the  front  lawn  and  the  side- 
walk. The  shrub  border  used  in  this  plan  has 
its  outhne  composed  of  long,  sweeping  curves, 
which  allow  it  to  be  wider  in  some  places  than  in 
others,  and  give  a  chance  to  frame  "surprises" 
in  some  of  the  bays  into  which  one  cannot  see 
until  directly  opposite  them.  One  should  be 
careful  in  planning  a  border  of  this  sort  not  to 
make  it  so  large  that  it  cramps  the  rest  of  the 
garden.  On  small  lots  it  is  better  to  have  the 
outhne  of  the  bed  a  straight  line,  and  depend  on 
the  variety  of  material  used  to  give  the  best 
effects. 

The  house  is  made  to  harmonize  with  its  sur- 


Fig.  103 

Stage  I — ^The  General  Beginning 

Two  progressive  elaborations  are  shown  on  the  following  pages 

295 


Fig.  104 

Stage  II — Simple  massing  of  screen  planting  and  beginning  of 

garden  features.  (The  view  lines  are  kept  open) 

296 


Fig.   105 
Stag£  III. — A  garden  of  features  developed  upon  the  lines  of 
the  plan  shown  on  page  299 

297 


298  GARDEN   PLANNING 

roundings  by  plantings  near  its  base.  These  are 
usually  grouped  at  the  corners  for  the  best 
effects,  and  may  be  placed  so  that  they  directly 
touch  the  house  or  there  may  be  room  left  be- 
tween for  a  path,  or  for  the  air  to  circulate.  Do 
not  plan  too  many  small  beds  for  the  foundation 
planting,  but  rather  let  one  or  two  larger  ones 
do  the  work.  This  is  one  of  the  many  cases 
where  it  is  better  to  err  on  the  side  of  under- 
doing rather  than  overdoing.  A  Japan  bar- 
berry hedge  is  used  to  keep  animals  and  people 
from  walking  on  the  front  lawn. 

In  this  plan  the  flower  garden  consists  of  a 
small  informal  border  of  perennials,  enclosed 
on  three  sides  by  shrubs.  It  has  been  placed 
so  that  it  will  get  the  sunshine  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  day;  and  as  it  is  fairly  near  the  house, 
one  can  enjoy  its  beauty  from  there  or  from  the 
small  raised  terrace  opposite.  This  terrace,  by 
the  way,  would  be  a  good  place  to  make  a 
"surprise"  of  a  bed  of  hardy  ferns,  as  they  could 
be  banked  in  around  the  seat  there,  and  should 
grow  well  in  the  shade.  In  locating  the  garden, 
note  this  point:  it  should  not  be  placed  where 
its  bright  colors  will  distract  the  eye  from  any 
charming   bit   of  scenery   beyond,   but   rather 


THE    EVOLUTION    OF    AN    IDEAL   LOT       299 

placed  where  it  will  attract  the  eye  to  itself  in- 
stead of  letting  it  wander  to  some  unsightly 
object  beyond  the  boundary  and  which  you  are 
powerless  to  hide. 

Another  method  (Fig.  105)  of  carrying  out  the 
general  idea  has  the  service  portion  and  the  front 
wall  lawn  area  much  the  same,  except  that  a  low 
wall  replaces  the  barberry  hedge  along  the  street 
front;  the  shade  trees  are  arranged  a  little  dif- 
ferently; and  the  large  corner  bed  of  the  founda- 
tion planting  has  been  placed  away  from  the 
house  to  allow  for  a  walk  between,  and  to  bring 
it  far  enough  out  into  the  lawn  to  make  it  serve 
as  a  screen  for  the  Hving  area.  One  would  not 
want  the  grocer's  boy  to  get  into  the  habit  of 
using  the  turnstile  in  the  corner,  but  it  would  be 
very  handy  to  anybody  hurrying  out  in  that 
direction. 

A  feature  is  made  of  the  hemlock  hedge,  and 
a  grove  of  the  same  material.  A  stepping-stone 
walk  between  the  hedge  and  a  bed  of  flowering 
shrubs  gives  a  chance  for  various  surprises 
(fancy  ferns,  wild  flowers,  possibly  a  seat,  or  a 
bird-bath),  and  leads  one  out  to  the  terrace  in 
the  rear  where  there  is  a  good  seat.  Here  one 
may  either  admire  the  view  in  the  rear,  or  the 


300  GARDEN    PLANNING 

sunken  garden  straight  ahead.  The  garden 
is  enclosed  on  two  sides  by  a  wall,  on  the  third 
by  a  hedge,  and  on  the  fourth  by  the  retaining 
wall  of  the  terrace.  By  such  means  is  variety 
obtained  in  our  garden  enclosures.  Looking 
from  the  house,  the  good  view  in  the  rear  is  en- 
hanced by  the  groups  of  cedars,  and  by  the  two 
deciduous  trees  on  the  terrace. 

Some  cardinal  principles  involved  are  thus 
itemized: 

1.  Keep  the  drive  as  short  as  possible,  except 
where  doing  so  will  bring  it  too  much  into 
prominence  in  the  scenery. 

2.  For  the  small  place  plan  a  straight  drive; 
but  where  the  length  is  more  than  one  hundred 
feet  it  is  usually  better  to  make  it  curved.  These 
curves  should  not  be  abrupt,  but  very  gradual 
and  easy.  When  making  curves,  it  is  the  rule 
to  have  some  apparent  reason  for  them,  such 
as  a  group  of  trees  or  shrubs,  or  a  knoll. 

3.  Keep  the  lawns  open!  Especially  avoid 
planting  one  shrub,  or  making  a  flower  bed,  or  a 
"half-barrel"  in  the  centre  of  the  lawn. 

4.  Any  flower  bed  is  better  if  it  is  enclosed. 
For  this  purpose  we  may  choose  either  a  wall,  a 
well-designed  fence,  a  hedge,  shrubs,  or  com- 


THE    EVOLUTION    OF    AN    IDEAL  LOT        3OI 

binations  of  these.  The  small  informal  border 
of  flowers  may  be  enclosed  on  three  sides  if  it  is 
set  into  one  of  the  bays  of  the  shrub  border. 

5.  Usually  the  vegetable  garden  would  be 
placed  in  the  service  portion  of  the  place,  but  il 
it  is  well  kept  and  can  be  subdued  to  its  propel 
relation,  there  is  no  reason  why  it  cannot  open 
off  the  living  area.  It  is  a  real  delight  to  many 
gardeners  to  have  a  chance  to  look  over  a  well- 
kept  vegetable  garden.  Fruit  trees,  especially 
apple  and  pear,  may  be  used  in  the  living  area, 
serving  the  dual  purpose  of  supplying  fruit  and 
shade;  but,  if  they  be  so  used,  take  care  that  the 
fruit  is  kept  picked  up  fpom  the  lawn. 

6.  Do  not  so  plant  that  a  small  place  is  en- 
tirely surrounded  or  it  will  be  hot  and  stuffy  in  sum- 
mer, and  will  appear  much  smaller  than  it  need. 

7.  Remember  that  the  more  "surprises"  one 
can  develop  on  an  estate  the  larger  it  will  seem. 

8.  In  designing  the  foundation  planting,  do 
not  plan  to  hide  the  entire  base  of  the  house, 
as  gUmpses  of  the  stone  work  are  necessary  to 
give  the  impression  of  strength  and  stability 
that  are  not  attainable  when  the  house  seems 
to  sit  upon  a  mass  of  waving  greenery;  and  do 
not  rely  on  young  forest  trees  that  grow  big. 


nOfERTY  LIBRABT 
N.  C  State  Colkm 


Date 

Due 

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4Jun35 

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